L&R Lock questions

[vrh]

My Lyman percussion GP rifle has developed a problem. There is slack in the hammer at half cock and again at full cocked positions. Would not keep one from firing the rifle but I know it is there.
Thinking about replacing it with a L& R percussion lock. Is there anyone who has done this already? Was there any filing necessary to fit lock into recess? If so where at on the lock?
I can get a new Lyman percussion lock from Track of the Wolf, but am leaning towards a L&R lock because of the good things I have heard about them being better that LYMAN'S lock.
Thanks for your answers
Vearl

[vagrantviking]

Is the hammer loose on the tumbler or is there an internal issue? Might be something that can be fixed.

If you are going for a new lock I would go with the L&R. They should have a direct drop-in that needs very little fitting but maybe a little.

[Buzzard II]

Vearl,
The L&R is a great replacement for the stock lock. It gives faster lock time. You will have to remove some wood, but the lock comes with good directions and it's easy to do. If you need to buy a new lock, put the money toward an L&R lock. Good shooting.
Bob

[arcticap]

My Lyman percussion GP rifle has developed a problem. There is slack in the hammer at half cock and again at full cocked positions. Would not keep one from firing the rifle but I know it is there.
Thinking about replacing it with a L& R percussion lock. Is there anyone who has done this already? Was there any filing necessary to fit lock into recess? If so where at on the lock?
I can get a new Lyman percussion lock from Track of the Wolf, but am leaning towards a L&R lock because of the good things I have heard about them being better that LYMAN'S lock.

At $140+ from TOW, the L&R would be would be quite an expense for what may only provide a nominal increase in performance if any.
The Lyman lock is basically a clone of the TC lock with its modern coil spring.
Lyman offers all of the lock parts to rebuild a Great Plains lock if necessary.
They might even fix it for you, you never know unless you try.
They also offer a parts diagram of all of the lock parts for $1.00 if you want to try to fix it yourself.
Even if you buy a new lock, the old lock is worth money if you fix it, or to keep as a back-up if you ever sell the gun and want to swap
it back out (if it will even properly fit back into the gun).
It's questionable whether you'll ever recover the $$$ investment if you ever decide to sell the gun.
I would fix the Lyman lock and become more familiar with the gun's performance and enjoy it before spending a lot of money for an L&R percussion lock.
The triggers will still be the same which can also make a difference in perception about how responsive the lock feels when the gun is fired.

Here's a link to the Lyman lock parts diagram:--->>> https://www.lymanproducts.com/percus...nt-parts.html/

It's listed under the GPR on the Lyman website:--->>> https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands...ins-rifle.html

[RU shooter]

If there's just some play between the tumbler and the hammer that can be fixed ,my TC flintlock had that issue . Fixing if it bothers you is a lot cheaper than the LR replacement

[rfd]

percussion locks just need to squarely hit the nipple, nothing special at all needed. they're no where near as geometry critical as a flint lock. i'd look into having yer lyman cap lock repaired - take it off and perhaps you'll see the loose half/full cock issue yer having. if not, call up lyman, they're usually pretty responsive. i don't see the need for new lock, particularly a more expensive L&R cap lock. if you had a lyman FLINT lock, then the L&R RPL05 replacement FLINT lock will make a definite performance difference even if the lyman lock had no functional issues - been there, done that many times over.

[dlbarr]

I put an L&R percussion lock on my TC several years ago. Felt it was a very good purchase. There was significant fitting to be done... but I never regretted the change.

[lead chucker]

Im about to order a lyman Great plains rifle. So when you say there Is slack do you mean when the hammer is fully cocked there is play in the hammer? like its a little loose? Is this a common problem with this gun.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

Take the hammer off and peen the hole that slips over the tumbler shaft.

I've seen this on many OLD muzzleloaders, but nothing that new. Typical lyman these days.

[rfd]

the OP's lock condition is NOT typical of lyman - that's a total falsehood. lyman locks - both cap and flint - are amongst the better offshore locks that i've worked on and includes locks from all the italian and spanish gunmakers. ALL the offshore locks can be a bit hit or miss, that is guaranteed. one lock that was the worst i've ever had was on a brand new traditions crockett, where the hammer required heating and bending in order to squarely hit the nipple. if you have an offshore trad muzzleloader, the L&R RPL flint lock "upgrade" may be a good thing to invest in even if the stock lock appears to work well, as the L&R lock geometry and build is simply better than the offhsore stock flint lock. typically, there is little to gain with a replacement percussion lock unless there are serious issues with the offshore lock.

[bedbugbilly]

Lyman versus L & R

apples to oranges

[arcticap]

Lyman versus L & R

apples to oranges

Lyman lock time compared to L&R lock time for a percussion lock should be able to be quantified,
just not very easily without special equipment which would seem to mean that it's still a matter of opinion.

Unless someone has a reference to the differences in their lock times, it's usually just a difference of milliseconds of lock time.

What's really funny is wouldn't the slower lock be more like an original, traditional percussion lock from the old days?
Perhaps the cheaper the gun's lock, the more authentic a lock would be in performance, more like the old days when crude locks were more common.

[1Hawkeye]

Lyman vs L&R is comparing a Ugo to a Rolls Royce. Iv'e replaced a T/C and a Dixie Tennessee mtn rifle lock with L&R's rpl series locks and it was well worth the little bit of fitting work it took. The instructions are so simple even I could figure it out its mostly removing wood from the lock mortice and trimming the sear bar to the correct depth. The folks at l&R are great at helping over the phone if you have any questions or problems. Also the L&R's have a shorter hammer throw which equals a faster lock time.

[sharps4590]

What's really funny is wouldn't the slower lock be more like an original, traditional percussion lock from the old days?
Perhaps the cheaper the gun's lock, the more authentic a lock would be in performance, more like the old days when crude locks were more common.

Have you ever examined an original; Hawken, Pennsylvania rifle, Goulcher lock, Bailles lock or Manton lock? I wouldn't call them slow and definitely not crude.

[indian joe]

Have you ever examined an original; Hawken, Pennsylvania rifle, Goulcher lock, Bailles lock or Manton lock? I wouldn't call them slow and definitely not crude.

I have a old original Manton - percussion lock - spend some time examining how that lock works and you realise how far backwards we have progressed !!!