Winchester 94 XTR .375 Winchester

[dogmower]

lyman 375449GC over IMR 3031. shoots well in my winchester 94 xtr, marlin 336 and H&R buffalo single shot.

[244ack]

I run the Accurate mold 38-270 D in my Big bore 94. Imr 3031 and H322 are the only powders I have tried. Best accuracy is at 1750 fps with both

[Barr]

What would be the approximate year of manufacture for a BB043xxx serial number? My best guess is ‘78-‘82.

[rking22]

Barr , looking at some links from researching the same on mine, I found reference to BB445xx made in 1980. My BB122xx was 1979. Going to guess 1980 for yours. Not a lot of documentation on the top ejects and date of manufacture. Introduction was Sept of 78.

[Barr]

Attached is first batch from RCBS casting session.

[MOA]

Good looking boolits there Barr. I see your top punch is doing what mine use to do....ring the top of the boolit. I went to a little larger top punch that still sat square on the boolit but was made for a larger diameter boolit to get away from the ring. Just cosmetics I know but I wanted a cleaner look. I may also try some powder coating on a batch next time I cast this caliber again.

[MOA]

duplicate post sorry.

[Barr]

Top punch issue is correct. I thought my flat nose punch I use for 10mm would work, but it is too big in dia (punch actual flat nose portion is under .400 of course). Its a future financial problem, 50 yard blasting ammo should not be impacted for now.

[Drm50]

I have a old Ideal mold and correct top punch ringed them too. I haven't loaded any cast for a couple years but
I used the top punch for a 44 or 45 to avoid ringing.

[saleen322]

We have a 375 Win and 375 SM revolver. The NOE 235 FPGC works great in both. This bullet has been the most accurate of all we tried.

[JFE]

If the ringing bothers you, you can open up the top punch by wrapping a bullet with some fine emery and slowly work on the inside of the top punch until there's no ringing. It shouldn't need much work to clean it up.

With that bullet you can crimp into one of the lube grooves. This will give you greater capacity and better accuracy. Check for throat fit and functioning to make sure.

[yeahbub]

An important thing to do with any .375 Win rifle is to measure the actual chamber length. Some have chambers a good bit longer than specified for the .375 Win. Knowing the actual length will give you a clear picture and let you know which .38-55 cases can be used. The chamber in mine is nearly 2.1", almost .080 longer than .375 brass, so I use the 2.085" .38-55 cases without trimming them back to 2.020" and they work fine. The longer 2.125" cases might chamber, but would present a pressure hazard due to the case mouth being pinched down on the bullet. Knowing chamber depth will also let you know which factory .38-55 ammo will interchange and which to stay away from.


I shoot the Marlin 375 using the Lyman 375248 cast of WW's, but it casts right at .378 which is the Marlin's grove diameter. I didn't get very far (still haven't got that microgroove/cast thing together yet) until I paper-patched, tumble lubed and sized to .379. They finish out at 255gr or so and will easily withstand full-throttle loads, my favorite being 28gr of AA1680. Seated to the crimp groove, this is nearly 100% load density and thumps stoutly. Accuracy is 2-2.5" at 100. For the more .30-30-ish loads you intend, the powders you mention will work well, Rel 7 being very similar. The .375 Win seems a bit much for whitetails in this area where 80 yards is a long shot, but the results are certain. If I had the mold, I could be satisfied with a 180-200gr RNFP at about 2000 fps and the reduction in recoil. There's not a whitetail in these parts that couldn't be anchored with that.