powder coating

[Rustybob]

ive been casting an lubing for 37 years im want to try powder coating what do I need an how you do it

[MaLar]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oating-Boolits

[ridenclimb]

Very easy. Cool whip container, powder coat color of your choice from Smoke or Eastwood, cheap garage sale toaster oven, non stick alum foil and you are in business. Spend 45 min reading old threads from this forum, spend 45 min watching some you tube videos and you will know everything you need to give it a try. If you have specific problems you can easily get specific answers here.

Good luck and happy powder coating.

[GregLaROCHE]

It’s not really that hard and for me and others it works great.

The minimum you need is:
a good quality powder
A plastic container like from cool whip
Some people add plastic BBs used in airsoft guns to help make more static electricity to stick the powder to the boolits.
You need an oven that you won’t use for food afterwards.
Nonstick aluminum foil

You put the boolits, powder and BBS in the plastic container and shake until the powder sticks to the boolits. Then you place them on the aluminum foil and bake at around 400*F. The time is between 15 and 40 minutes depending if you preheat and what you find works best for you. I find longer is better than not long enough. When the powder has melted and gotten up to temp, let them cool and you are done.

I have tried to give you a quick answer to your question. There are a lot of videos on YouTube and I suggest you watch some. Afterwards come back and you can ask specific questions. It’s not hard and works great. Good luck!

[Rustybob]

thanks for the intel

[Conditor22]

Check out the threads -- http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...d-Alternatives

Do yourself a favor and get a countertop convection oven (I'm not saying a toaster oven won't work), with a convection oven, the fan gives you even heating so you can do larger batches.

smoke4320 a VS on this forum sells PC that is proven to ASBBDT (airsoft BB dry tumble --#5 container with AS BB's a tsp of powder, a handful of clean boolits, swirl until enough static is built to ge a good coat of powder on the boolits, remove excess PC, make sure your oven is reaching 400 °

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...BDT-containers
one way
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...552-How-I-Roll

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ange-PC-method

[ancientriflesmith]

Great information given here for powder coating. I would add, if you will allow me. I have been experimenting with PC for several years. My Grandson got me interested,he heads the spraying section for a large PC business. I have learned less coating is best. It only takes about .002 thickness to protect against leading. On YouTube I see some b with a lot more coat than needed. The method I developed, I have not seen used by anyone else. This eliminates the aluminum foil, spray gun, standing bullets on end, and sticking to anything. I call it "MY SHAKE AND BAKE METHOD" First I size the CBs to about .002 less than the finished size I desire. The PCing will bring them up to about .002 over sized dia. I use a plastic coffee container like the red or blue from brand name coffee. I heat my cast b to 155-160 F d. and put them into the coffee can with no powder in it. I put the powder into a shaker such as a spice container with about a dozen holes 3/32nds in dia. I swirl the cb in the container as I slowly sprinkle the power coat on them watching for them to be completely coated but not too heavily. Then with a screen sift off the very little loose powder and place hardware cloth screen with bullets in the oven at no more than 375d for about 15 minutes. These cb look great and are smooth and shiny. Since the are evenly coated they produce few flyers. I shoot almost exclusively cast b in all handguns and rifles over 30 cal. If you want consistent results use this method and I believe you will agree its much faster, cleaner and produces beautiful accurate b. My friends using this method call it ancientriflesmith's shake and bake.
I appreciate them giving me credit for developing this treatment. I spent hundreds of hours perfecting it. No discredit to Elvis Ammo or the Hot Lead Zone guy, they are both leaders in this new adventure. I'm just lucky to have a range out the back window of my reloading room so can test my work rain or shine. Oh! Another question has been asked here that I can give a reliable answer to. I shoot PC b using the same loads as j b. Example: In 308, 173 gr. .311??? Lyman RNFP at 2675 fps and one ragged hole at 100 yds. Just so you don't have to look it up for comparison. That is 180 gr. J velocity ballpark. Adding too, gas checks on fully PC CB are not needed as long as the B dia. is .0015 to .002 larger than the bore.
Long post I'm sorry.
ancientriflesmith
custom rifles since 1961

[bangerjim]

Read the threads. Lots of good info on here we have generated over the last several years.

Too much to just lost “all you need: in a simple thread. Spend some time reading.

It is easy. Just get out there and experiment around.

Bangerjim

[Walter Laich]

to improve your experiences do NOT try harbor freight powders--can be done but much, much harder to get to work

[randyrat]

Rustybob

Been mostly a standard lube guy and have my own lubes, but I don't like to limit myself, so the PC world has my attention also.
Powder coated a couple dozen 45 acp lead yesterday using Elvis Ammo's method- Low Heat. Impossible to scratch off with a finger nail, sized bullets bullets before and after PCing
Accuracy, leading, reliability testing has to be done yet.
Go to Y tube and Check out some methods

I will not change to PC for my Bullseye bullets unless I can match accuracy and reliability.

[Smoke4320]

Randyrat
just keep in mind you will gain about 4% in velocity with a pc'ed bullet so you will probably have to rework your loads to regain accuracy

[Big Boomer]

I've wondered about the scratch test … fingernail or something harder? A knife was handy on my reloading bench so I tried that on a Smokes clear powdercoated boolit that I had already smashed. The pc will come off but it exposes lead but not with flaking of the powdercoating. Just like with a bare piece of lead that can be scratched. How far do we go with the scratch test to prove the coating is good? I've had nothing but success with pc so far but still do not know the extent of the needed "scratch test" I've read about in this thread. Someone explain a good scratch test. Big Boomer