plasma cutter

[Taylor]

Got one for Christmas. Zeny Cut 50. It's ..apparently 110 or 220. It did not come with a power cord plug. I am confused as...the pitiful instructions are using the word "pressed air" and " pressed gas". I have never owned a plasma cutter and I am feeling dumb as a rock.

Guy's, I need help and lots of it. Tell me things....please. I know nothing! ( this is were there should be a picture of Sgt Schultz). 110v is how I wish to use it.

[rancher1913]

you will need to find out if its 110 or 220, should be a plate on it somewhere that tells that. should be some wire connections on the back somewhere that you hook a wire to, with out a photo its hard to show you. the pressed air is really compressed air from an air compressor and you will need to regulate how much goes in somehow, should be a air port on the back, again no pitcher makes it hard to guess.

[Preacher Jim]

Taylor mine is similar and I use my compressor or a tank of air I pump from compressor.
Thank does not last long but compressor will keep it cutting good. You will enjoy that tool once you get the hang of it.
Is there a hook up guide on inside of cover plate? Mine has one.

[Taylor]

Didn't look. Frustration set in when I looked at the paperwork, **** chinese.

[Wayne Smith]

Should be a 110/220 wiring diagram on the inside of the cover of the wire. How the motor is wired determines 110 v 220 as long as the motor is wired for it. That's all I can tell you, sorry. I empathize.

[trapper9260]

When you use it make sure you have alot of ventilation because for long term use with out it you could get black lung from it. I use to use one at one of the jobs I had.Better off with a air compressor

[HATCH]

Brown or Red = Line
Blue or Black = Neutral
Two-Tone Green/Yellow = Ground

that is what I gathered from the web

[SeabeeMan]

As other's have said, there should be a wiring schematic on the device somewhere, and it may well be both voltages depending on how you do it. If at all possible, wire it for 220.

There is definitely an air hookup somewhere, probably on the back. Mine has a regulator built into the front panel but it isn't uncommon to put a regulator and filter right on the back of the unit, just a cheapo harbor freight one will do. These things HATE moist air and you're going to want to be able to adjust the pressure at the unit.

Learn to maintain about 1/8" gap between the piece and the tip for the cleanest results. There are standoff clips depending on the model, but they get in the way as much as they help. And buy LOTS of consumables. As soon as you swap tips, you'll find that the electrode goes. And as soon as you have that taken care of, you'll get careless and crack the cup. Make sure everything is gently hand tight at the consumable end or you'll go through them faster.

I love mine and rarely touch my oxy-acetylene rig anymore, but they do have a learning curve.

[SeabeeMan]

Also, be aware of where your cords are laying. I rebuilt my snowmobile trailer over the summer and all of a sudden my plasma wasn't cutting very well. Swapped multiple sets of electrodes, checked the air, connections, etc. After tearing the harness to the gun apart, I found a small piece of slag had gone into the two wires and was intermittently shorting them out. I had pulled them under my cutting area and blown a piece of slag right into the tubes, thankfully missing the air hose.

[labradigger1]

Some models have built in air compressors, if not dry air is a must have for proper operation.

[Taylor]

[Taylor]

There is no access panel. Would have to remove entire cover?

[rancher1913]

does paperwork have a wiring schmatic you could post a photo of. at least it has a regulator already. looks like your air supply hooks to the "in" or the tail of an arrow on the regulator, the "out" or point of an arrow should run from regulator down to the barb connection that says gas. the arrow will point the way the gas should flow. my guess from looking at the wires is that it is wired for 220, the one with the stackon loop is the ground, but that is only a GUESS based on the wire colors.

[rancher1913]

the front of the unit, right hand port is for ground connection of gun, the middle looks to be the switch and should be a twist lock connection?, the left appears to be the positive/air supply to gun.

[Taylor]

does paperwork have a wiring schmatic you could post a photo of. at least it has a regulator already. looks like your air supply hooks to the "in" or the tail of an arrow on the regulator, the "out" or point of an arrow should run from regulator down to the barb connection that says gas. the arrow will point the way the gas should flow. my guess from looking at the wires is that it is wired for 220, the one with the stackon loop is the ground, but that is only a GUESS based on the wire colors.

No schematic, it will have to be 110. I have no 220 in my shop, the wiring will not support one either.

[castalott]

Mine has to have a good ground and I mean that in spades. It won't cut very thick or fast but is fantastic in places....

[rl69]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1a7m8gP+3S.pdf

See if this helps go to section 3 for wiring.

[labradigger1]

I did some quick research on the cut50, they need to be wired 110 OR 220, 220 will be needed if cutting 1/2” steel and with less amps the duty cycle jumps from 60% to 100% per the manufacturer.
Lots of reviews and comments regarding g the cut50. Most people like it except the fact that you have to make contact to start the arc. This is a small price to pay without spending a few hundred more dollars.
eBay has them for around $180 shipped and one seller has them for like $65 direct from China, not sue what customs and duty’s would tack on.
Let us know how you like it.

[rancher1913]

rl69 found it for you. looks like it "knows" which way you wire it electronicly so just put a 110 end on it.

3.1 - WIRING
Upon unpacking your Ramsond CUT series plasma cutter, you will notice that the unit is not equipped with
wall plug. This is done to accommodate either the 110V or 220V configuration. The CUT series is a dual
voltage machine. There is no switch for changing the power between 110 and 220 V, as the machine
automatically detects the voltage.
CAUTION
Due to the current draw (Amp), this unit should NOT be connected to the standard household 110V outlet.
A 30 Amp circuit is required for 110V operation and a 20 Amp circuit for 220V operation.

looks like you will need to add a dedicated outlet for it with properly sized wires, 30 amp can get by with 12 awg but you would be better going with 10awg. if you use it on a regular 110 outlet for any length of time your wires could overheat and short out but if your careful you could probably do quick jobs ok.

you can get 30amp twist lock plugs, hardwire one end into panel and your good to go, do not use this on 15 amp outlets, they have 2 parallel slots, you could try like I said above on a 20 amp outlet, they have 2 perpendicular slots

[Sweetpea]

I would not do 30a on 12 wire, 10 wire minimum.

However, if you do have a single outlet on a circuit, with 12 wire, you can run it on 220, just change the breaker.