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Thread: Hungarian M95

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Hungarian M95

    I have a Spanish Destroyer on hold at a store in Maine but today I drove past that store and went to Cabela's in Scarborough, ME. They had a pretty good collection of milsurp rifles and I left with a Hungarian m95 in 8x56 for $249.00. It's all matching, great bore, a repair in the stock but it looks good. It has the importer stamp - they had another one with no import marks for $359. It looks like it'll be a good shooter, and $175 less than the Destroyer.
    Anything special to watch out for with the m95?

  2. #2
    Boolit Man

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    I have a 8x56 and a 8x50 both are good shooters. 8X56 has kind of a funky taper to it and I couldn't get my standard 2400 cast bullet loads to work without a bunch of blow back and sooty cases, I finally went to Herco and no problem. I use the Lee mold for this rifle and it works fine. The barrels do vary quite a bit, they should slug around .330. The last thing is the extractors are a common issue that comes up and replacements are hard to find, always use the enbloc clip even if single load so it feeds under the extractor.

    Good luck with your new rifle!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Any 8x56 Steyr clip will work, right?
    Thanks for the info.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Yes about the clips. 8x50 and 8x56 use the same clip. Groove diameter is very variable, throats are really large.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    The 8x56 m95 Stutzen kicks like an angry mule with surplus Nazi ammo. Cast should stop that nonsense.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    M95 Info

    ...........I've had several of these over the years. I paid $39 from Century when I had my 01 FFL. I still have 2 of'em. I converted one to 30-40 Krag.





    The largest headache with these rifles is the extreme variability of the bore/groove & throat diameters. My first suggestion before you do anything is to slug the barrel. The 2nd thing (as a previous poster suggested) is to NEVER drop a round into the chamber and close the bolt on it. I HAVE done that before and have never busted an extractor. However the possibility is that it CAN happen. If it does, good luck in finding another without having to buy another rifle to get it. If you DO find a spare loose extractor thank GOD and be prepared to pay the devil's own price for it. At one time there were some around and the price for ONE started at $75.00.

    When I got my first M95 the ONLY ammo for it was the milsurp stuff at $1.47 per box (2x5 rounds in clips). Berdan primed, corrosive, and powerfull. In order to reload, I had to convert the brass to use #209 shotshell primers:

    These are the cast boolit's I've used in my M95's: The slug marked 'A' is an old, no longer available Saeco mould for a .338gr PB shuetzen slug, 'B' Is the Lee 338 bullet, 'C' is the RCBS 338 bullet, and 'D' is a slug from the original "Frankenstein" mould produced by Mountain Moulds.

    In this photo you can see just how long the Leade is: The slug in the photo is the Saeco scheutzen bullet.

    Good luck. Enjoy yourself and don't give up too soon. These rifles CAN shoot if the barrel is in good shape. The triggers suck. The one I rebarreled to 30-40 Krag is very nicely accurate and the equal of many other milsurps.

    .................Buckshot
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Good info. Thanks.
    What are the pros and cons of converting to 30-40 Krag? That is beyond my skill level for sure, but can any competent gunsmith do it?

  8. #8
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    M95 clip mods

    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Good info. Thanks.
    What are the pros and cons of converting to 30-40 Krag? That is beyond my skill level for sure, but can any competent gunsmith do it?
    Sure a gunsmith who does re-barreling can accomplish it as simply as most any other rifle. The only mod you need to made is on the clip' and they are simple.



    Since the 30-40 case is smaller in OD then the 8x56, the lips at the top of the clip are turned inward to allow the boolit to 'Present' to the breech. Secondly, for the same OD issue, the lips at the bottom are turned in in order to keep the 5 rounds tight in the clip. Simple to do, and once done they're done. No extractor mods are required.

    ................Buckshot
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I took Buckshot's advice and got a spare extractor. Apex Gun Parts has some in stock.
    https://www.apexgunparts.com/rifles/...x56r.html.html

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Guys,

    I have a Model 1895 8X50MM Steyr rifle. I would like to reload for it. Where do I find reloading dies and brass? I cast 8MM boolits for many other rifles. Help???

    Adam

  11. #11
    Boolit Man

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    CH4D supplied my 8X50R dies, they are not always in stock I wound up waiting 9 months before they notified me they were producing them. I believe Buffalo Arms CO, sells their dies so check there or with CH4D direct. Brass is easily made from 7.62X54R brass, one suggestion I would add is that the throats are very long on these, after you form the 54R brass try a dummy round with the 54mm long brass and it will likely load and function fine. That long neck is nice for cast bullet shooting. I use the Lee .329 mold and push through sizer, some bores can run on the large side and .338 can be sized down (would suggest a chamber cast or at minimum slug your bore to get a better idea on diameter) or I suspect Accurate or NOE also makes molds that would be good for the job.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I went to a store in Maine (not where I bought the rifle) and they had 11 boxes of the 1938 ammo (2 clips with Nazi markings, 5 rounds each clip per box) for $12. I bought 4 boxes. A week later I went back and the 7 boxes were still there, so I bought 2 more. I might go back and get the rest - they don't seem to be flying off the shelf.
    I also got brass, dies and a Lee .329 mold from Midway. The barrel slugs at .329 but I can make it work.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I fired 5 of the Nazi head stamped ammo over the chrony @ 70* F Sept 2009, averaged 2285 fps,I believe those are supposed to be 206 grain bullet, 2.5 inch group at 50 yds.
    Hell, I was there!

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy

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    I am casting and loading for my M95 also. Brass is PPU and I am using Lee dies and a cast "Frankenstein" bullet from a NOE mould. This bullet has a taper in the nose which seems to engage the rifling well. I coat and gas check them and seat them long to fill the magazine well up and not have too much bullet below the short neck.

    One thing that really made loading this round better was the addition of the Lee custom factory collet crimp die. I am sizing the bullets at .340" and the seating die was not letting me crimp because the bullet was bigger in diameter. With the short neck there was not much friction on the bullet and I was having problems with the bullets getting pushed into the cases when chambering from the clip. The Lee FCD solved the issue and also gave me better ignition and more consistent loads.

    In the pic L to R:

    coated/GC/Sized bullet

    as cast cull

    loaded round showing how far I seat the bullet out.



    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Franken bullet web.jpg 
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ID:	234032

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Did you slug the bore?

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intel6 View Post
    I am casting and loading for my M95 also. Brass is PPU and I am using Lee dies and a cast "Frankenstein" bullet from a NOE mould. This bullet has a taper in the nose which seems to engage the rifling well. I coat and gas check them and seat them long to fill the magazine well up and not have too much bullet below the short neck.

    One thing that really made loading this round better was the addition of the Lee custom factory collet crimp die. I am sizing the bullets at .340" and the seating die was not letting me crimp because the bullet was bigger in diameter. With the short neck there was not much friction on the bullet and I was having problems with the bullets getting pushed into the cases when chambering from the clip. The Lee FCD solved the issue and also gave me better ignition and more consistent loads.

    In the pic L to R:

    coated/GC/Sized bullet

    as cast cull

    loaded round showing how far I seat the bullet out.



    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Franken bullet web.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	35.3 KB 
ID:	234032
    I had the same problem with the Lee seat die and the Frnakenstein boolit. I contacted Lee, sent the die and a couple of Frankenstein boolits in, they opened up the die so the boolit fit in it and have been using it that way ever since. It crimps fine as long as the boolit can go up through the die and contact the seat stem.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I fired off a 5 round clip of the 1938 Nazi-marked ammo today. Anyone who said the rifle kicks was not joking. It's a thumper. Definitely a rifle for reloading. I have 95 rounds of that ammo left. I'm thinking it will be around a long time...

  18. #18
    Boolit Master RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I bought one 30 years or so ago told it was 8x56 when purchasing chamber cast reveals it to be 8x50 instead. Still haven't shot it but its in really good shape . Got it out a couple months ago ordered brass 7.62x54 and trimmed to length. Got clips still need dies but will get them soon and hope to get it to range soon.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master am44mag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I fired off a 5 round clip of the 1938 Nazi-marked ammo today. Anyone who said the rifle kicks was not joking. It's a thumper. Definitely a rifle for reloading. I have 95 rounds of that ammo left. I'm thinking it will be around a long time...
    I started out with 100 rounds of that stuff when I bought mine about 6-7 years ago. I think I'm down to about 75 rounds of it, lol. If you hand that gun to somebody who likes to talk about how well they can handle recoil, it sure does shut them up in a hurry!
    ______________________________________________
    Aaron

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    A bud and I ordered when they first hit the shores and a bunch of the German ammo, we still have a bunch of ammo. That monster is a cheek slapping shoulder smacking beast, and I have shot big stuff a lot. We had a little thing going called the Steyr Club, once started it was required to finish clip, humbled a few tough guys.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check