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Thread: Mould Tappers?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    I got a wooden handle hammer from harbor freight the cheapest I could I could find slammed it on the corner of a cinder block head broke off been using it for a few years now. I still think of purchasing a real one just have had the need yet.
    rrh

  2. #42
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    "Bought a couple from DukeInFlorida. One sits on the bench and shows no sign of wear."

    Me too. They are really nice for the intended purpose.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaLar View Post
    This is what I have been using for a couple of years.
    Seems it's going to last awhile.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch...let-66205.html
    Glad to see I am not the only one who uses this hammer. I tried the small gunsmith type hammer that has a brass side and plastic on the other, but, the head was to light and really had to give it a whack to get the boolits out.

  4. #44
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Back in the 80's I had to cut down the handle on a big sledge hammer about 10-12". I've been using that cut off piece ever since.
    Until a mold gets as seasoned as Gramdma's iron frying pan and they drop out, I tap the side/end of the handles behind the mold block.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
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    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Echo View Post
    Kevin, in opposition to common practice, I don't tap the hinge area, I tap the side of the mold, actually the handle on the side. Just made sense to me, that a lateral swat with my light plastic mallet, would tend to knock the boolits AWAY from the mold, or actually, knock the mold away from the boolits. So far, no problems. Give it a try...
    Thanks for the suggestion. Since I mostly cast bevel base, where the lip of the mold that forms the base may hang up the slug, the lateral motion might be just the ticket.

  6. #46
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    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    Do you hit the mold before it is opened or after?
    Chill Wills

  7. #47
    Boolit Mold
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    My Mold Tapper

    Homemade Carvers Mallet.
    Piece of Nylon for the head, 20mm Wooden Handle (piece of an old broom stick) with a bolt right through it holding it all together.
    The handle is thin enough so that it stays in my right hand all the time and if its not in my hand the lanyard keeps it close.
    The bolt gives it some weight and the nylon head does not damage the sprue-plate or the centre bolt.

    The wooden handle started to crack so in the new year I will get a length of 20mm nylon and redo the handle.


  8. #48
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    I was at a local flea market and found an old baseball bat for like 2 bucks. I cut the shank off and use it for a tapper. Works great!

  9. #49
    Boolit Master

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    Bought two tappers from Duke in Florida, one for me, one for my reloader partner down the road from me, put a big piece of nylon on the business end, works perfect!!! Probably never wear it out.
    I firmly believe that you should only get treated by how you act, not by who or what you are!!

  10. #50
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bought NOE's Mould Mallet fairly early on in the game and haven't had a desire to look further. Had to replace the outer PVC casing a couple times, but that's a pretty cheap cost of doing business.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  11. #51
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    Initially I used a piece of 1" dowel stock about a foot long - just happened to have it. Taped it to cut down on splinters. Moved up to a hammer handle. And for at least the last 20 years, been using this - OK, it looks like I've used it for AT LEAST 20 years, but it does the job!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Echo
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    One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigslug View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bought NOE's Mould Mallet fairly early on in the game and haven't had a desire to look further. Had to replace the outer PVC casing a couple times, but that's a pretty cheap cost of doing business.
    I cracked my PVC casing also, what diameter pipe did you replace it with?

    Thanks,

    Neal in AZ

  13. #53
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    I use a large ball peen hammer handle wrapped in deer rawhide. Gentle on the molds and very effective for the purpose. Just as an aside, there are some who view us as mold whackers and consider us very abusive to molds. I'm guilty as charged!!
    One of my father's favorite statements: "If I say a chicken dips snuff, look under his wing for the snuffbox" How I was raised, who I am.

  14. #54
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    alamogunr's Avatar
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    I use a small lead hammer cast from a mold that circulated several years ago. Short handle.
    John
    W.TN

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy T_McD's Avatar
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    Dang I guess I need to find something to use. Haven’t cast yet but looking to start soon

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    I have been using Hickory shovel or hammer handles cut to 10" to 12" for years these last a long time and are easy to replace.

  17. #57
    Boolit Master
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    Just another option...

    Bought a couple nylon mallets from The Yard Store long ago:

    https://www.yardstore.com/nylon-mallet

    I think they're a perfect size & weight, I doubt I'll ever wear one out. They've gone up $2.00 since I bought them, still a bargain IMO.
    Bob

  18. #58
    Boolit Buddy Liberty1776's Avatar
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    For my 12" piece of old sledgehammer handle (it's straight the whole length but oval in cross section) I found a 1" PVC cap (I think, find one that you think can fit).

    Heat the cap with a hot air heat gun until it softens.

    Push the stick into the soft cap. Form it around the stick as it cools (wear a glove).

    After it's cool, drill a pilot hole through the cap and into the end of the stick. Countersink the hole in the plastic to receive a 1-1/4" flathead drywall screw. If desired, you can put a couple of screws through the sides, too.

    Done.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check