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Thread: Small ingot mold?

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When I smelt scrap I'll run 7 or 8 of the Lyman style molds. If the right friend is over I'll include his Lee mold into the lineup. It works fine. I really don't care for the 1/2 pound ingots and just use the 1 pound side. They come out smoother than the ones in my older cast iron molds. You will quickly discover that you need several, not just one. Personally, I would shop around for the best price and just order 4 or more cast iron ones. They will last forever. Four pounds in a mold is a good compromise between production and being easy to handle. Some of the homemade angle iron molds work well but can get heavy during a long casting session.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    These are the best I've found. https://shop.lodgemfg.com/bakeware/c...muffin-pan.asp
    I have 6 that I found at a Cabela's outlet in Nebraska. I think I paid $5 or $6 a piece. We were on our way from Tennessee to Yellowstone and stopped to get a couple of jackets. These were on a sale table.

    I also have both RCBS and SAECO. I bought these on Ebay many years ago(before Flat Rate Boxes). Actually, I only did that once. Shipping cost almost as much as the molds. I don't clean up WW anymore but I do some alloying and different mold shapes come in handy.
    John
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  3. #23
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    I just bought some very small loaf pans for use as ingot molds. Haven't tried them yet...
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    They look like they will make about 3.5# ingots. 2 1/4" x 4" on the top of the ingot and 1 3/4"x 3 1/2" on the bottom of the ingot.
    I think that will make a nice size for stacking and possibly shipping.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master


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    Aluminum muffin pan from the thrift store, usually available in 6 or 12 cavity versions. Check to be sure cavities are not dented as that will hamper release.
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  5. #25
    In Remembrance

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    Here is a thread on those stainless steel condiment cups from Walmart, cheap too, like a buck for 4 of them. I put a sheet metal screw thru the bottom to hold them to a board so I have a handle to dump four at a time.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ment-cups-ROCK!!!

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I've got several Lyman and a couple of Lee ingot molds. Both styles work, but I'm thinking that the volume casting I want to do with the equipment I have (ProMelt with a Lee 4-20 feeder) may need a bigger ingot, something that will stack well in storage (so not a muffin or corncob style), and has a more slender profile than the chunky 3# mini loaf ingots I have now. I've got 1 1/2# pound angle iron molds from D Crockett that are very good, and also span the top of the pot for preheating and are sized for shipping, though I'm considering a bigger mold in rectangular bar form like the one being discussed in the group buy sub forum.
    Last edited by kevin c; 12-19-2018 at 02:56 PM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    One of the observations I've noticed is that it is nice to empty that smelt pot as soon as possible and get another batch going. Lot's of waiting time waiting on the new loaded pot to come up to temperature so it can be skimmed and fluxed...I like gang moulds that hold a lot of lead.


    Also, I like to load a casting pot as full as possible so I can reduce the time I'm waiting on the Pb to melt as I feed that pot...that means I need to weigh the ingots so I can get approximately 18 lbs. in a 20 lb. pot because there's generally one or two pounds of pistol or rifle lead in the pot...it's easier for me to weigh and stamp weights on ingot day, you have the time to do this as you wait on each batch to melt. Call it 'OCD' or what you like but it is convenient.


    Here's a pile of pure lead I bought from someone who likes the cornbread muffin ingots...they're cute to look at but they don't fill the pour pot very well...yeah, you can pile them to some extent but I've had them slump and fall out if I don't keep an eye on them...these need a crate to store them, they don't stack.


    These longer ingots in this shape stack close side by side in the limited space we have in those small round pots...they'll stand there for a while until they have sucked up enough heat to start slumping straight down into the pot.


    Another plus is that you can see that these triangular shaped ingots will stack well and stay put.
    Now the only time I pull one of the small 4 gang Lyman/Lee aluminum ingot molds out is to just drain a pot for a Pb change...
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  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Nice set up, OS. I also try to have enough molds so that when I start pouring I don't have to stop and wait for them to cool. I run 7 or 8 of the Lyman style molds and even then I may have to pause for a minute or two after 5 or 6 cycles. By then the ladle guy probably needs to stretch his back for a minute or two.

    I have 2 barrels that I put a length of 2X6 across with a piece of 1/2 X 6 inch steel on top of it for a landing zone. I'll sit on a stool behind them to dump while a buddy works the ladle. 8 molds spreads out about as far as I can reach from a sitting position and that number also keeps the ladle guy from having to take more than a few steps. Its a pretty good system all in all.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    Nice set up, OS. I also try to have enough molds so that when I start pouring I don't have to stop and wait for them to cool. I run 7 or 8 of the Lyman style molds and even then I may have to pause for a minute or two after 5 or 6 cycles. By then the ladle guy probably needs to stretch his back for a minute or two.

    I have 2 barrels that I put a length of 2X6 across with a piece of 1/2 X 6 inch steel on top of it for a landing zone. I'll sit on a stool behind them to dump while a buddy works the ladle. 8 molds spreads out about as far as I can reach from a sitting position and that number also keeps the ladle guy from having to take more than a few steps. Its a pretty good system all in all.
    That would make a cool video...just a thought!

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    Nice set up, OS. I also try to have enough molds so that when I start pouring I don't have to stop and wait for them to cool. I run 7 or 8 of the Lyman style molds and even then I may have to pause for a minute or two after 5 or 6 cycles. By then the ladle guy probably needs to stretch his back for a minute or two.

    I have 2 barrels that I put a length of 2X6 across with a piece of 1/2 X 6 inch steel on top of it for a landing zone. I'll sit on a stool behind them to dump while a buddy works the ladle. 8 molds spreads out about as far as I can reach from a sitting position and that number also keeps the ladle guy from having to take more than a few steps. Its a pretty good system all in all.
    My meager little smelt pot and turkey fryer will hold about 45 pounds of lead...I don't trust that 'Chineee' fryer to hold any more than that & I'm nervous standing along side as I flux and mess with the pot scum...


    It works out on several angles though...for one, that's enough lead for two sets of pours with these new long triangle bar moulds (16 bars/pot) with some Pb, prolly 1/2" left in the bottom of the pot for the next incoming batch or I'll leave it in the pot to cool for the next single pot-O-lead I process.


    Another angle is that I don't have the back strength anymore to be bending over the pot and moulds with my large heavy ladle...(got a failed back fusion 25 years back, gotta be careful of that) so...these small batches work out just fine. I keep track of the lead bucket behind the trap and when it feels like 50 pounds of lead I'll process that because it's easy...doesn't take a lot of time, the results are encouraging and I'm not down in the back the next couple of days. Here's the first time I processed lead from this new backstop...such a relief not to have to deal with those jacketed rounds...they are already shredded and in this pot, their jackets and the plating comes out with the pot scum.


    Just a thought but, I wonder if some of the Cu. from the thin plating might stir into the pot and improve the blend? I've heard of guys stirring in Cu. using very thin Cu. wire?

    It's amazing how this backstop has changed my shooting/practice & casting...I like Sn rich practice lead because it fills the various mould cavities so well and the casts look so good but I wouldn't want to shoot them somewhere that I can't get that lead back. As far as the shooting/practicing goes, I'm able to come up with all kinds of fun targets to practice with...for double tap + one in the noggin & working with the shot timer I like this style target, hung single or in pairs.


    Just when I get to feeling good about my practice, I'll shoot a hostage target against the timer...this one makes you pay attention..."Save the hostage and your the Hero...nick or outright shoot the hostage and your the ZERO!"


    I keep an eye open for large boxes that I can run across the table saw to uniform all the target blanks and use a routed out template and a rattle can-O-black paint for the lines.
    Had no idea how a simple backstop would change so many things I do in the shop...
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

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  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by SciFiJim View Post
    Be careful with loading the milk crates. I did that and the sides gave way after about a year of storage. I didn't stack the milk crates, but I did fill them with ingots. The outward pressure from the piled ingots added up after a while. Made quite a mess of mixed ingots when I finally noticed. I had them labeled, but still....
    I stack my ingots in plastic milk crates so that the sides do not have much strain on them. The only thing about this is that they will hold about 700# so don't load them until they are where you want them to stay! I have had 5 gallon plastic buckets split after a few years.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    That would make a cool video...just a thought!
    I'm planning to fire the smelter up before spring gets here. I'll try my hand at the video thing.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    I got a pair of Noe dual 2lb molds. They are pretty nice because they cast in markings that you can use for identification.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron369 View Post
    I have a couple lee ingot moulds. In retrospect, I should have spent a little more for the Lyman moulds. The Lee makes two one pound and two half pound. I don’t use the half pound. The Lyman has 4 one pound ingot sections. I spend too much time waiting for two Lee ingots to cool when the Lyman would double production.
    You might try water-cooling the ingot molds. Use an available cookie sheet, put a towel (doubled) in it, sop with water, and set the ingot molds on there. As you pour, they will sizzle, but the ingots will cool a lot faster and production will go up.
    Echo
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  15. #35
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    Also, when I smelt, I usually use Lyman/RCBS type 4-cavity ingot molds, but flood them, making ~5-lb ingots. When I want to use them, with gloves on, I take one ingot in my left hand, flat side up, and another in my right hand, and swat the left one about on the dividing line between individual cavities, a couple of swats, and a 1 1/4 lb ingot is ready for the pot. And I store my stuff out on my covered patio, and do all my casting and loob-sizing out there. Possible in AZ.
    And I store my ingots in a couple of old bookcases I bought from my neighbor who was selling them in a garage sale. AZ benign wx allows this. The coke-cans on the bottom are what I use for pure Pb. WW+2%Sn goes into angle-iron ingot molds bought here on this forum. Other alloys are marked, usually, 'A', 'B', 'C', 'D', and I know what those are.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Echo; 12-26-2018 at 05:46 PM.
    Echo
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  16. #36
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    I made some molds out of angle iron. Mine are a bit shorter than the others shown here. Their length is about the depth of my casting pot. I’m planning to make some more and this time I will try putting a slot between each ingot, so I can pour into one and the lead can overflow into the next ones. Not sure how it will work, but it’s worth a try.

  17. #37
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    Careful using anything aluminum...it loses its "SOLIDUS" at about the melting temperature of lead. At least that's what I read once upon a time.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Hmm. I thought the four cavity Lee and Lyman molds I have are aluminum. Maybe some Al alloys are more heat resistant than others?

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I made my alloy ingot mould from 1/4 X2 X 2 angle iron 10" long 5 to a mould and 5 of them. For the alloy moulds the angle is 1/8 X 1 X 1 10 long and 2 of them. ends if angle were cut on 10* angle for easy release. The 1 X 1 are for alloy pewter tin antimony its easy to cut off just what is needed from a bar. I stamp alloys with mix/blend, pot number In this way I can add x number of ingots from each pot batch and remain very consistent over a large amount of lead. Alloys are stamped with alloy material and pot number also. I tape the stamps together and use key stock for spaces. IE WW 1, RL 1, PL 1, 96 2 2 1. I use 3/8 stamps and a 4lb hammer to drive them.


    Find a system that works for you and stick to it

  20. #40
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    Aluminum melts around 1200 deg, lead at 620. Aluminum ingot moulds work fine.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check