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Thread: Modified Lee 7/8 oz. Slug Mould ~ Brenneke'ized!

  1. #61
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    rancher1913's Avatar
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    don't know how you get the wad perfectly centered but for the russian slugs I had a junk 12 gauge barrel that I cut a chunk out of. the slug goes in and then the wad, screw them together and then push out as one unit.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  2. #62
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Pretty much as you describe. I use a sized punch through a bored tube to poke the centered hole in the wads, leave the punched wads in the tube, slip the slug in then run the wood screw through wads and into slug.

    So far they look good but downrange results are what count. I should be able to get some shooting done next weekend to find out.

    How did those Russian slugs work for you?

    Longbow

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    Randy:

    My Slugster has 18 1/2" barrel with rifle sights. A good combination for bear protection. Quick to acquire sight picture and simple.

    I've painted the front sight white and plan to order a ghost ring rear sight. Williams makes a nice one. In the meantime I will try enlarging the slot in the rear leaf... or getting a leaf with larger slot. I am finding the sights difficult to see in anything but bright light.

    Most of the Mossberg rifled barrels seem to be cantilever scope mount and 24" long. I don't want 24" especially if I have a scope. 22" is plenty and 20" even better in my opinion. If it is a "target" and "plinking" barrel the extra length is not a big deal but I'd still like shorter. A benefit of the cantilever barrels is that there is no front sight to move or remove if you shorten the barrel... just lop it off then re -crown. However, then a guy needs a scope or a red dot on the gun. I didn't want the extra expense, complication and "stuff" hanging of the gun but again, if it is a "target" and "plinking" gun that isn't so important and a scope is more precise than open sights (12 ga. varminter!?!)

    Back on topic unlike my post above...

    I plan to test out these Brenneke'ized Lee slugs in the cylinder bore smoothbore barrel. It would be interesting to see how they do in rifled barrel but I'd be surprised it they did as well as the Hammerheads. I suppose if they held 4" to 6" groups at 100 yards from rifled barrel I wouldn't be disappointed and if they'd do that from smoothbore I'd be dancing a jig! I don't expect I'll need new dancing shoes though!

    Longbow
    Longbow,
    On the question of sights; I find that I have come full circle - from "bead on the barrel", to red dot, to scope, and now back to bead sight. Actually, two beads on a vent rib with the front stacked on top of the rear. It gives an instantaneous sight picture once you acquire the proper cheek weld, as Randy has stated. That's how I shoot the gun for skeet & trap and it just carries over when I load slugs for big game. It's thick cover here, my average shot at any game, large or small, is around 30 yards. I did scope my new-to-me M500 with the rifled bore, only for testing. Come huntin' time the 20" goes back on it! Even with 65 year old diabetic eyes the 2-bead system works well! I am going to replace my tri-focals with progressive lenses this time around though, a big THANKS! to randy for that tip!
    We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone.

  4. #64
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    Yes, I have found that the "Old Eyes" problem generally centers around "Technique, more than Physical Limitations."

    Learning how to use the Front Sight is not something that you just start doing. It takes lots of practice to break habits that are decades old and embedded like ticks.

    But just getting your glasses sussed out so you can actually see what's going on is the key thing that everyone can get done, and will improve your shooting immensely.

    It also takes some time to adjust to Progressive Lenses. It took me about 6 mo before I could wear them full time for driving and I have a set of bifocals I used to use just for driving at night. I am getting them converted to progressives this week because the frames are nice Ray Ban Tortoise Frames and I will retire the black frames I've been wearing for the last few years.

    The table on my Milling machine is bowed down on the ends when looking thru progressive lenses, and I have to make allowances for that when working. after a while your brain recalibrates and you don't have to think about this stuff.

    I get my eyes checked at Costco and anyone can afford that. We have a place called "Santa Barbara Eyeglass Factory" locally and I will get the lenses made there for $60-70 in about 2 hours. Costco also makes glasses for reasonable prices as does Sam's Club.. There are usually local outfits that make glasses in most towns that don't charge an arm and a leg. Those same lenses made at one of the nationwide chains like "Lenscrafters" were more like $250 to $300. If you go to an Optometrist and buy your glasses there you will get hosed!

    There is no need for anyone to be blind today because they can't afford decent glasses. Plenty of good places to get them.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  5. #65
    they look great, can't wait to see the results .. fingers X'd

    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    I finally got some Brenneke'ized slugs put together!

    I found some fairly dense felt used for under furniture legs so figured I'd try it.

    I made a punch to produce 16 ga. wads (0.672" wads diameter) then punched out some felt and polyethylene disks.

    I made a jig to punch centered holes for screw then assembled the slugs in a jig.

    They turned out pretty well but if course shooting will tell the tail!

    These are pretty easy to make so if they work well will get some more attention.

    As always, I think consistency in the wads and attachment will be determining factors in success or failure.

    Pic attached.

    Attachment 233853

    Longbow

  6. #66
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Thanks BigMrTong.

    They don't look as nice as your 3D printed tail wads though. But for us guys without 3D printers these are pretty easy to make.

    I am still having some trouble getting the felt to punch cleanly as is seems to "squirm" a bit while being punched. A guided punch or maybe rotating cutter in a drill press would do a better job. They aren't bad but not perfectly even and clean cut.

    Testing will tell the tale! I'll post results when I have them.

    Longbow

  7. #67
    Boolit Master Markopolo's Avatar
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    Use a paddle bit running at max speed for your drill press... works for me as long as there is a good fit for your wad in the barrel piece.
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  8. #68
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Sorry, not understanding "paddle bit" for cutting wads. Would you explain to a simple old guy?

    I was thinking of a bored to size tube sharpened like a punch but run in the drill press so turning while pushing through.

    Now this "Brenneke'ized slugs" is a project near completion (unlike so many others!). Just got to load and shoot them now.

    Thanks,
    Longbow

  9. #69
    Boolit Master Markopolo's Avatar
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    LB, it’s a spade bit. The kind you would use for boring like 1/2 inch holes or larger through wood. The bit has a sharp fine tip that centers well if you use the right size inserted into a junk piece of 12g barrel. get the same size that just fits into a 12g barrel. Just don’t plan on using the bit for anything else after scraping the sides of the bit against the inside of the barrel piece. But they are cheap. I would show you my setup, but I can’t seem to find my chunk of barrel to take a pic... the spade bit fits inside, and the choke part of my barrel piece holds the felt wad tight. Kind of self centering.
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  10. #70
    Boolit Master Markopolo's Avatar
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    Either a 5/8 bit or a 3/4 inch bit is the correct one if memory serves, but that depends on if your barrel piece is choked or not.
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  11. #71
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
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    I once made a number of special cutters for punching large holes (1.5") in stacked paper. The punches looked a bit like these but with the cutting edge on the inside (and posed quite a challenge to grind).

    You could make your own thin-walled, hardened punches and grind the teeth by hand on a bench grinder. An angled cut will slice through stuff much easier. Just ask Dr. Guillotin...
    Cap'n Morgan

  12. #72
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Not sure if there is a hole saw that is correct inside diameter but they tend to have a nasty seam in them. Kinda looked at that briefly.

    I'd be more inclined to turn my own then heat treat them. For 1/4" to maybe 3/8" felt wads I doubt teeth would be necessary but... I have been wrong before! It is certainly easy enough to try then if the cylindrical punches don't work well enough just set up a jig to get evenly spaced teeth using a bench grinder.

    I'll try these ones first. Was hoping to have done that by now but so far haven't made it to the range. We're having a rather mucky winter this year. I may wait it out and just cast and load for now then when weather gets better go get stunned senseless by accumulated recoil... again!!

    I get the type of bit you are talking about now but I think punches would be easier. I am thinking it may be best to punch or cut oversize wads and attach them to the slugs then do the final cutting with slug attached. My sized Lee slugs just fit into the new punch after I honed it out a bit so that should work well. That would keep slug and wads all together and all lined up as punched. cut squares from strips of felt could be center punched for screw and just a bit oversize then attached to the slugs with the extra just outside the punch.

    More stuff to try!

    Longbow

  13. #73
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    LB: for cutting felt or any other soft fibrous material you need knife type of cutter. IF you could chuck up a gasket punch in your frill press that would work.

    Since you need a custom size you will probably have to make it on your lathe and it may take more that one attempt to get the size right. The ID is obviously the size you want but the bevel on the cutting edge needs to be on the outside of the tool. If you put the bevel on the inside of the hole it will compress the material down to the ID of the tool and that may be a desirable thing to do as well.

    You can make this easily on your lathe out of any available steel you have laying around. It doesn't need to be hard as you won't be doing that much with it and you can easily resharpen it by putting it back in the lathe and using a stone on it.

    You don't need to spin this at warp speed. 150-300 or even 600 rpms will work just fine. Cut a piece of 4x4 about 1" thick for the back up plate so when you punch thru the tool doesn't have to try to cut cross grain.

    After you figure out what size it needs to be and test it and are satisfied maybe you can make a new one out of O1 drill rod that you can harden with just a torch and some oil. You can usually get O1 from any industrial supply co. McMaster Carr sells it and I use .375 Precision Ground O1 for the guide rods on my Loading presses.

    IF you need any more ideas? jsut ask. I am full of them.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  14. #74
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Already made a hammer type punch out of a piece of my old Jimmy axle. So far not hardened, and machined as is... I didn't anneal it. From past experience I know I can heat red then quench and temper to get significantly harder and if I do it I'd likely pack it in charcoal to put a bit of a case on it. Sharpening will take the case off the outside bevel but it will remain on the inside.

    It is a conventional punch with bevel on the outside.

    I found that 16 ga. nitro card wad diameter is 0.672" so made my punch I.D. to 0.672".

    Coincidentally the Lee slug sizeer I made sizes to 0.670" which means I can attach oversize wads to slugs then run the slug into the punch cavity and final punch wads so all is in-line. Even using a form to screw wads on things squirm a bit but punching all together should give the best results... I think.

    The hammer punch does compress things some and they do "squish" a bit so you are right about using a thin wall tube type cutter in a drill press, that is likely a better route to go and slice rather than directly punch and shear.

    Slugs are ready to test. Now just waiting for decent weather to get out and shoot.

    Longbow

  15. #75
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    The axle was made from 4340 Cro Moly it was originally about 40-45 Rc. More than enough for the punch.. Making it so it will rotate will give you smoother cuts than directly punching it. Punching compresses the material, but spinning the punch will compress it less. Might work better for you.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  16. #76
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Well, I finally got around to weighing these guys! Fully assembled with 2 x 1/4" felt wads and 2 thin polyethylene disks they weight 440 grs. +/- a bit. I'll use 1 oz. slug load data. Once weather gets more tolerable I'll shoot some. It is supposed to go to -20 C in the next few days so I doubt I'll be shooting this weekend.

    Might make up some more slugs though... and will load up slugs and double ball loads.

    Longbow

  17. #77
    Boolit Master Markopolo's Avatar
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    Yea yea LB.. don’t let a bit of cool weather slow ya down... go get em tiger..
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  18. #78
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Well, they are loaded up now and ready to go.

    It is only -11 C so tolerable but I'll wait a bit as I have about... hmmm...

    - 10 modified and Brenneke'ized 7/8 oz. Lee slugs as cast
    - 2 modified and sized to 0.672" paper patched brenneke'ized 7/8 oz. Lee slug loads
    - 20 double 0.600" RB loads
    - knurled and sized to bore Paradox slug loads
    - possibly another 10 as cast Paradox slug loads to run through my Slugster

    Enough to keep me out there for a couple hours anyway. Warmer weather is coming soon! We'll see tis weekend but likely another week away.

    I'm not as hardy as you Alaskans! Not anymore anyway.

    Longbow

  19. #79
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    My office today:

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  20. #80
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    Yeah, Canada, Alaska? doesn't it normally get cold up there alot? You's guys up there should be used to this weather by now, haven't you lived there your whole lives?

    The guy from Finland isn't wussing out! He's tough!

    Enough of this hiding indoors,,, get out and brave the elements that's what heavy clothes are for,,, right?

    Don't your cars have heaters? What the hey?

    We need info, and you need to get out there and do the testing, and give it to us!,,, Damit!

    It's 66 F here in Ojai CA today and I'm freezing.

    Randy
    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 02-07-2019 at 06:31 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check