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Thread: Replacing mould grips

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    Replacing mould grips

    A little discussed thing that thankfully doesn't need to be done to often in mould maintenance .
    New grips on the handles .
    "My mould takes Lee commercial handles when they give up I just get a new set . They're only $12 ...."
    That's fine but this set is on an 8 cavity H&G that later on may as well have had matching number handles and it sold for $214 delivered in 1992 , so the $12 Lee fits most won't fly . Besides this was cheaper and I like cheap fixes that guys can make look good and these don't look bad even in my low grade finish skills . I don't do finish work I can never tell when it's done .

    Addendum , the OM grips were cracked and disintegrating .

    I bought 2 3/4" copper sweat couplings and snagged a broken broom handle from a cheap push broom these are too short but will do for now .
    Basically I cut the broom handle off in 7" pieces , fine for Lee commercial handles and 2-6 cavity aluminum moulds they should be about 10" for this monster .
    Then I used a bench belt sander and turned the ends down to just slip about 1/4" into the coupling and drilled a 3/8" hole deep enough to hold the handle shank about 4" in this case .
    Next I drove the coupling on with a soft face hammer to the seating rib , half the depth of the coupling . I then cut it off with a tubing cutter and used the other piece on the other end . These are on as a tight crush fit about 1/4" passed any taper to fit the coupling ID .
    The reason for doing both ends is that when I started drilling I discovered that this broom handle was split bamboo and infact 4 pieces .
    When I was done I pinned through the handle with a piece of #12 copper wire and peened it flush with the drilled coupling .
    The handle shanks fit tight and further swell the wood, bamboo in this case , against the copper ferrels . The only bug might be the heat transfer from the handle shank to the mould end ferrel through the pin .
    The finished product.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .

    Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18


    Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
    Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Harter66 View Post
    A little discussed thing that thankfully doesn't need to be done to often in mould maintenance .
    New grips on the handles .
    "My mould takes Lee commercial handles when they give up I just get a new set . They're only $12 ...."
    That's fine but this set is on an 8 cavity H&G that later on may as well have had matching number handles and it sold for $214 delivered in 1992 , so the $12 Lee fits most won't fly . Besides this was cheaper and I like cheap fixes that guys can make look good and these don't look bad even in my low grade finish skills . I don't do finish work I can never tell when it's done .

    Addendum , the OM grips were cracked and disintegrating .

    I bought 2 3/4" copper sweat couplings and snagged a broken broom handle from a cheap push broom these are too short but will do for now .
    Basically I cut the broom handle off in 7" pieces , fine for Lee commercial handles and 2-6 cavity aluminum moulds they should be about 10" for this monster .
    Then I used a bench belt sander and turned the ends down to just slip about 1/4" into the coupling and drilled a 3/8" hole deep enough to hold the handle shank about 4" in this case .
    Next I drove the coupling on with a soft face hammer to the seating rib , half the depth of the coupling . I then cut it off with a tubing cutter and used the other piece on the other end . These are on as a tight crush fit about 1/4" passed any taper to fit the coupling ID .
    The reason for doing both ends is that when I started drilling I discovered that this broom handle was split bamboo and infact 4 pieces .
    When I was done I pinned through the handle with a piece of #12 copper wire and peened it flush with the drilled coupling .
    The handle shanks fit tight and further swell the wood, bamboo in this case , against the copper ferrels . The only bug might be the heat transfer from the handle shank to the mould end ferrel through the pin .
    The finished product.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20181213_143155777.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	50.2 KB 
ID:	232037
    Nice work.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
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    Quite handy
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Looking good! Now, I need a pair.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Right from the start I take the handles off, grind a few notches in the metal handles, mix up some epoxy dribble down the wooden handle and replace. Make sure to use enough epoxy it fills all the voids in the wood and comes out the ends.
    Did this to a brand new set and both had hair line cracks epoxy came out of.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    The problem is these 6-10 cavith H&G molds are really hard on the handles. When the sprue is cut all the energy is transferred as leverage to the short tangs inside the wooden handles. This is the reason you see almost every one of the handles split from the tang transfering the impact in the sprue plate to the inside of the wood handle.

    I found drilling & tapping the end of the tangs so long machine screw can be inserted helps especially when you metal cap the wooden ends of the handles as you did. I coat the tang with grease and cover the screw threads with grease & a plastic straw to keep the epoxy from bonding to the metal. I fill the handles with epoxy and install. The screws pulls the handle down tight, eliminating the need of pins.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I make them like that for my handles also. I use 7?8" wood dowel and turn the ends to a snug fit in the copper fittings snugly. I glue the fittings on with JB weld. I use a bar clamp to hold pill everything together till the epoxy cures. I then drill the couple end for the handles fit them and glue them. after epoxy cues I then pin to the handles. For heavy moulds or high stress I drill thru and gles thinn brass tubing in them and fit handles to the tubing.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    Thanks guys .
    I've seen threads before but mostly directed toward Lee and the epoxy fill .
    I remembered a thread that detailed the ferrel technique but couldn't locate it . It was probably years ago ......

    I have other tools available , a wood lathe , and could have found a nice piece of oak , hickory , walnut , cedar , pine alder or maybe even laminated maple . I may even do that next time . These need to be about 3" longer to be happy with this mould , but this will get it back in service for now . I have $3 and a little bit of time with typical garage tools . I guess hickory would make the best handles , gouge handles might be nice . I could turn them down to except copper or thin wall steel tubing instead of fittings as well . I could probably even spring for real tool handle ferrels .

    The OM handles were not only cracked but had begun to dry rot due to this 8C #130 looking like it was left in the cowl of a John Deere tractor for about 10 yr .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .

    Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18


    Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
    Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .

  9. #9
    Boolit Master s mac's Avatar
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    Nice work. Good to get that old mould back in service.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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