Iver johnson/h&r bulldog hand drag

[Somehippy]

Hi,

I acquired an iver johnson ajax army 5 shot 44 webley revolver with a 6" barrel. It was in a sorry state when i got it last week but have made a cylinder pin and latch (and spring), front trigger guard screw, as well as a new sear, hand and main springs. She nearly functions, and seems to be timed right in single and double action, however from time to time the hand will drag on the ratchet and turn the cylinder backwards upon releasing the trigger. I polished the hands bearing surface and the ratchet flats, and lightened the hand spring some but still have the occassional hand drag. 1 in 12-15 "shots" single ir double action. Im going to stone the sides of the hand and the slot for it in the frame as well, I thought id make a post here in hopes of suggestions.

Thanks

[Wolfer]

I can’t make any suggestions but it sounds to me like you would be a handy fellow to have around.

[pietro]

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Welcome to the board !

AFAIK, the hand was used in older IJ revolvers to keep the cylinder from rotating backwards - so you're on the right track.

It could be that the hand has worn in a way that effects it's functions.


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[Somehippy]

Thanks for the welcome! I stoned and polished the sides of the hand and the slot in comes out with maybe slight success. Still sometimes when the trigger is released the hand moving down with it still has the ability to pull the cylinder backwards sometimes, despite a rather light hand spring. It seems at times like it almost works itself out, i got it to cycle 25 "rounds" in double action before it acted up last night. Maybe i worry too much and have too high of expectations for this old "economy model" revolver? All i know is if this lil hitch would go away id be a happy guy. None the less i have shot 50 rounds through her in single action (carefully watching primer alignment through firing hole in the frame), some were loaded with ffg (to be easy on the ol girl first time out) and some were loaded with fffg, all under 200 gr .430 rn bullets i had kicking around. Luckily 44 russian cases shortened about .10" fit perfect so shes easy to feed. The fffg loads certainly hit with some authority, 18gr goex. The bore is pretty rough on er but the rifling is strong, in my limited shooting accuracy does seem attainable, getting used to the small grip is the biggest part of that im sure though. I am debating what moud to get as the bore is roughly .426~" the grooves are .439~" and the cylinder throats are .435~". Didnt have any real apparent signs of leading or excessive fowling with the .430 bullets and i do have a .430 swc moud, but i still have trouble believing they are sealing up in the bore, .009 is quite a bump... kinda leaning towards old wests .430 hollow base rathed than the heeled variety. I feel a bit bad spending money on this lil ol gun, but she was a barn find before i got er but shes nearly working now. I know these guns have little value (in the states), and alot of people say to not even shoot them, but here in canada i feel a bit better plinking and putting wear on this (on my own property ) than a $1500+ collectable item. I like how simple it operates and knowing i can repair or replicate any part that might wear with basic tools and materials. Sorry for rambling...shes my first revolver and being one that can be shot at home instead of a designated range makes it a bit more special

[pietro]

...shes my first revolver and being one that can be shot at home instead of a designated range makes it a bit more special

I shoot all my CF revolvers @ home with primer (only) powered wax bullets, with a target hung on the front of a wood box filled with old towels as a backstop.


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[JMtoolman]

It sounds like the locking bolt for the cylinder is out of time. It should remain in the latched position until the hammer is all the way down, the hand is then in the retracted position ready to start the cylinder on its next rotation. The first movement of the hammer or trigger is supposed to pop open the bolt so the cylinder can rotate to the next shot. Check to see if the hammer is releasing the locking bolt before the hammer and trigger is fully retracted. The toolman.

[Somehippy]

Sorry i kinda ditched out on this thread, got busy... anyhow, solved my issue! My trigger pin (finishing nail?) had a slight bend that would at times turn itself where the hand just wouldnt quite lift high enough on that particular ratchet tooth and allow the hand to pull the ratchet backwards when the trigger was released. So replaced pin with sacrificed drill bit shank and she works great now. Gonna bush the pin hole in the trigger for a tighter fit. The answer to my troubles was much simpler than I could have imagined. But i figured it out. Maybe this will help someone one day.