Powder?

[joatmon]

Which would you buy, and why? I see from 9.00lb to 24.00lb. weighing in quality and price what do YOU like?
Thanks Aaron

[arcticap]

I use different powders for different types of guns, basically depending on how hard the powder and guns are to clean
and whether I want to keep corrosive powder out of any of them or not.

Pyrodex P (pistol powder) for .45 & .50 sidelock rifles, and shotguns along with some Pyrodex RS that I've picked up on clearance.
But I could do without Pyrodex RS at all due to it leaving more residue and being less clean overall.
Just need to reduce Pyrodex P by 10% volume.

American Pioneer Powder (3F only!) for inlines and revolvers because it cleans up the easiest.
After shooting, I can coat the gun and bore with mineral oil which buys a little extra time to clean them if needed.

777 powder (3F only) for small caliber guns like the .36 because it's more potent and doesn't foul much with small charges
which helps to eliminate swabbing at the range.
It seems to cost more but because it's more potent, less is used.
Max. charges need to be reduced by 10-15% otherwise.

None of these preferences are carved in stone since I have experimented with each powder over the years in different guns.

Cost is really not a factor.
Some powders are just not as compatible with patches lubed with Bore Butter as Pyrodex P is.
Larger charges of 777 can form a harder or stickier residue so I shy away from it unless I wanted more recoil along with the higher velocity.

APP [Pioneer] 3F doesn't require lube in revolvers and when highly compressed produces good velocity, and works good with sabots in inlines.
But if shooting sabots in a sidelock, I would use Pyrodex P unless something else worked better.

Any powder will generally work well in smoothbore shotguns.
But I like Pyrodex P the most because the grains are very fine which helps it to enter drums and flash channels easily for less misfires.
Just need to make sure to be very meticulous when cleaning after using it since a gun can be easily ruined if every nook & cranny are not totally cleaned.
APP is much easier to clean but I'm not sure that it's as consistent or fine grained.

I have black powders too but have yet to use them because I get along fine with the substitute powders for now.
But as you can see I like all of the powders and think they are all worth buying to experiment with.

[dondiego]

GOEX, Schuetzen, Swiss

[bob208]

I started shooting muzzleloaders about 85 all I have ever used is goex. it has never let me down. can see no reason to try any other. I buy it by the keg 25lb. at a time.

[rodwha]

I use Goex Olde Eynsford and Triple 7. Mostly Olde E. They are both energetic powders comparable to Swiss.

[Nobade]

Old E when I want to load ammo for the BPCR rifle. Goex FA unglazed or homemade in everything else.

[toot]

once you go black you'll never go back!!

[rfd]

SWISS only, 1-1/2f for the .45-70's and 3f for the flintlock long guns. if i was strapped for cash it'd be OE in the same flavors.

[Tasbay]

Goex FFFF for the flash pan, Homemade for flintlock main charge, percussion guns and the cannon.

[GBertolet]

What is the best BP powder to use in 1880-1890, 32 S&W breaktop revolvers? I have tried light charges of smokeless in them, but want to try black powder, as that's what they were made for. Load data is all over the place, as what the proper charge is. One is a S&W, and the other is a Forehand Arms.

[Nobade]

What is the best BP powder to use in 1880-1890, 32 S&W breaktop revolvers? I have tried light charges of smokeless in them, but want to try black powder, as that's what they were made for. Load data is all over the place, as what the proper charge is. One is a S&W, and the other is a Forehand Arms.

3f. iirc the charge is about 7 grains. Or however much will fit under the bullet you're using.