Russian "Italian" slug mold help

[Ginsing]

Hey slug casters.
Can any of you fellows that have the "Italian" slug mold give me some advice.
When I cast a slug it releases perfect from the mold but will not come off the pin. It's like it fuses itself on there. The only way to get it off is to dip it back in the pot and melt it off.
I am casting strait clip on wheel weighs. Preheating the mold and pin. Running my lead hot.
I tried polishing the center pin inside and out, put graphite spray on, tried silicon spray, tried smoking it as well.
Have any of you experienced this?
Do you think it could be the alloy I'm using?
Should I run it with pure lead?
Any advice would be very much appreciated
Thanks

[Boolit_Head]

I have not used that mold but have used HP pistol molds that acted like that. Smoke the pin, the carbon will assist with releasing. Run the mold and or melt hotter and see if sitting longer in the mold will allow it to release. Most of my HP molds take several casting sessions to break in and release easier.

[Ginsing]

I did try smoking the mold and pin.
I tried different lengths of time sitting in the mold, no dice.
I'm preheating the mold and pin. Running the lead hot.
Problem is I pour one and it will not release. No way it will come off the pin. So I have to dip it in the pot to melt it off. Then pour another only to have it stick. I'm not talking having a hard time releasing, I'm talking fully fused like it's soldered on there.

[Rcmaveric]

Try using pure lead and run it hot. Preheat the mold aswell. The insert pin needs to be as hot as the rest of the mold.

Shotgun slugs are ment to be used with pure lead. Could be the main problem.

Lol I tried using a Lee Key drive slug mold with wheel weights and a cold mold. Broke that mold getting the slugs out. I was able to fix the mold. Switched to pure lead and preaheted the hell out of the mold. I still have to use vice grips to the first couple slugs off the center pin untill the pin gets hot. Works good now and only loose the first couple slugs. Once its all hot, it runs quick and will empty a pot fast.

I cant get my shotgun slug molds to cast easily with anything other than pure lead.

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[rancher1913]

that mold is a problem child, had the same problem with mine and gave up on it. I have had better luck with the zeverboy frag slug, they drop out ok.

[gpidaho]

Try putting a thin coat of dielectric silicon grease on the pin. That is my choice for lubing pins and sprue plates. I use 2 cycle motor oil on the mould pins, Gp

[Ginsing]

I have put silicone on there. No dice
The pin on this mold is not a solid one. It is bored out. This is where the problem might lie.
I ordered the mold with a solid pin as well and the slug drops off that pin ok. It's the pin for the special tail wad I am having issues with.
I have never had a problem with casting the Lee slugs or the lyman 525 with wheel weights.
I suppose I will have to scrounge up some pure lead and give that a try.
It's a shame, was hoping for a harder slug.

[tomme boy]

Graphite is your friend

[Oily]

tomme boy is right. Coat that pin with # 2 pencil lead and try it. Or try some artist "lead" that has a high graphite content. Works like a champ on all my HP molds

[tomme boy]

Go to the hardware store and get some dry lube. It is powdered graphite. Or it might be labeled lock lube. I have a can that Felpro used to make that is a aresole spray. I used it on dies in a plant I worked at that had to be pressed together under 1K tons of pressure. If you did not use it they would never come apart ever again.

[Ginsing]

I think you fellows didn't fully read my original post. I tried dry lube spray graphite

[rancher1913]

this mold does not work like a regular slug mold with a plug in the bottom, it is almost inverted. I tried all the ideas you guys have suggested and had no luck either. the only thing that I did not try before giving up on it was sanding the pin to smooth it out, you might try that.

[rancher1913]

the zeverboy mold is designed so that you can reclamp the boolit back in the mold and pull the pin, then drop the boolit. had good luck with it and use it instead of the italian.

[Ginsing]

I tried to sand it with 600 grit than Polish with 0000 steel wool. It still sticks
I am gonna try pure lead this week with it. If that still doesn't work I an going to just use the solid pin. With the solid pin however the slug cast much lighter and very thin in the front.
I may try just cutting the solid pin down so it still accepts the tail wad yet remains a solid nose.
Thanks for your input fellas

[W.R.Buchanan]

The Lyman Foster Slug Mould I have (but not for much longer) has the same problem with the slug sticking to the pin. I found that rapping the mould handle hinge a few times would break it loose. Also pull the pin before you open the mould. I was getting 1 relatively good slug about every 5 pours with that mould using Wheel Weights. It is supposed to be ran with pure lead also as is all the big slug moulds.

The alloy may be your problem.

Randy

[dsh1106]

I use automotive anti-seize, just a dab works for a loading session.

Scott

[Whiterabbit]

It's a cavity for the pin to cast a slug mold? Like a hollowpoint pin, but then drilled? Kinda? Is the profile of that tail such that the tip of the tail is fatter than the shank, as if a drill bit chattered at the bottom, and made it so the tail won't release? I don;t know what the profile is, but it almost sounds like a mechanical lock, given how much pain you've gone through already to no avail.

[Ginsing]

I will melt off the slug I have attached to the pin and take a really close look in the bottom of the hole. It didn't look wider at the bottom when I looked yesterday. I did Polish the inside of the bore hole, right at the bottom of the hole there was a slight swirl where the bit bottomed out. I might try and get that swirl smoothed out. It does seem like a mechanical lock yes

[Blood Trail]

Man, I'd never had a problem with mine.

[longbow]

Just had a thought... dangerous times!

I had been thinking about making a D bit reamer to clean up the post hole but maybe lapping would do it... if that is the problem area. Coat everything with thick mould release and hopefully you can get at least one decent slug cast then use that to lap the center post hole. There could be a burr or groove in that hole causing the lock up.

I'd suggest casting very hot and using wheelweight alloy and open the mould as soon as the sprue puddle hardens (not quite solid) so the slug is still a bit soft. It should shake off whatever is holding then you have a decent slug to lap with. If that doesn't work I can likely make a D bit reamer to clean that hole up if it is the suspected problem anyway.

Yeah, KrackenFan69 has the Paradox version and he says his casts beautifully.

Longbow