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Thread: Lets discuss the topic of Roll Crimping lots to here need to get it all in one place.

  1. #141
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    I have a BPI roll crimping tool and I recently bought one from the Reloaders Network with 4 rollers. That one is far better. Puts a taper on the crimp whereas the BPI crimped donít.


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  2. #142
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    My BPI tool puts a taper on the outside of the hull but the end is square. I got the one off Reloaders Network and it is best of both worlds.

    Left one is factory Right is BPI tool.

    Randy
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  3. #143
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    Read this whole thread. Good stuff and info here.
    What I see is people using roll crimps and no wad under on their Lyman 525 sabot slugs.
    I have the mold and the book says "Use fold crimp only"
    Is either OK and do both perform the same?
    Keith

  4. #144
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    Read this whole thread. Good stuff and info here.
    What I see is people using roll crimps and no wad under on their Lyman 525 sabot slugs.
    I have the mold and the book says "Use fold crimp only"
    Is either OK and do both perform the same?
    Keith
    I was pretty sure the Lyman shotgun manual has both fold crimp and roll crimp data. It wont cause any danger to roll crimp, roll crimps generally produced slightly lower pressures, but it's not a huge difference.

  5. #145
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    I used to roll crimp the 525ís. Never got any accuracy worth a damn.


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  6. #146
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blood Trail View Post
    I used to roll crimp the 525’s. Never got any accuracy worth a damn.


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    I wonder if it doesn't pinch up on the wad. Maybe an overshot card would help. I prefer a fold crimp on flat slugs like that, they crimp nice.

  7. #147
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    Thanks. I am a bit leery of putting an overshot wad over a slug in case it got stuck or something.
    I will stick to the fold crimp.
    I have a RB mold coming .678 to go in the Federal 12S3 wads I have. I think I remember Longbow puts a roll crimp over them with no overshot wad. My manual does not cover that. Roll crimps for round ball not folds. Correct or not?
    Last edited by Keith; 02-28-2020 at 06:40 PM.

  8. #148
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    Thanks. I am a bit leery of putting an overshot wad over a slug in case it got stuck or something.
    I will stick to the fold crimp.
    I have a RB mold coming .678 to go in the Federal 12S3 wads I have. I think I remember Longbow puts a roll crimp over them with no overshot wad. My manual does not cover that. Roll crimps for round ball not folds. Correct or not?
    So far, I havenít had any problems with overshot cards over slugs, although I havenít done it in a while. Iíve tried traditions cardboard OS cards as well as the frangible plastic ones.

    As far as crimping RBís, you should be able to do both.


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  9. #149
    Boolit Buddy
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    Great. Thanks.

  10. #150
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    On my Round Ball loads I just fold them as they are loaded just like my Standard Trap Loads on the same machine.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  11. #151
    You have to use an extremely light touch with skiving a shell.
    Like knocking the sharp edge off a brass shell.
    You can squeeze a shell mouth in your fingers and tell if its heavy ,light or average.
    Most are average.
    Range pickups vary.
    Toss to the side, the ones that aren't right.
    That's among the benefits of reloading your own.
    Don't use a shell that is questionable.
    In cold weather, keep a hot plate with a coffee pot nearby.
    Also, use the hot plate to warm your roll crimper, just a little.
    It works, but not if you have a plastic crimper of course.

  12. #152
    Boolit Master

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    .........
    Last edited by dsh1106; 07-19-2020 at 07:52 PM.
    Scott

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  13. #153
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    I thought I would add some more thoughts and techniques I have found success with.

    First Previously Roll Crimped Hulls re-crimp better than fold crimped hills. New hulls work the best. You can recondition Previously Roll Crimped hulls by using a heat gun and one of the tapered spuds. You push the hull onto the hull and let the drill rotate the whole mass while aiming the heat gun at it. The results are a perfectly round hull. See before and after pic below.

    Second Pre-Heating the tool with a heat gun makes the first hull come out nice instead of using the tool to heat itself.

    Next some Vaseline in the tool helps produce a nice smooth Crimp.

    150-200 rpms on the tool seems to work best.

    Overall stack height doesn't matter. The Crimp will go down until it stops, if you force it to go farther is will leave a little crease just below the top of the crimp. You have to push much harder on the quill to do that. You go down until you think you are there, then check the hull to see if the payload moves if so give it a little more until the payload stays put.

    I can start with fresh hulls or my Reconditioned Federal Blue Hulls (pick up everyone you see as they are excellent!) and do 25 perfect crimps in a row no sweat. All the hulls are loaded at once, and then crimped all at once. You need to keep the tool hot and running thruout the whole sequence.

    This is what I've been doing on my Slugs and Buckshot Loads and the results have been as close to factory as I think is possible.

    Randy
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    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  14. #154
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    OK; another tidbit that works better than I thought.

    Today I was at Home Depot in the Electrical Section where the Big Fuses are, and I saw this neato Fuse Puller. Someone had mentioned Fuse Pullers as excellent Hull Vises on another thread recently, and this one stuck in my head. $10.52 out the door. It said it was good on fuses from 13/32" to 13/16". 12 ga shotshells are really close to 13/16 on the OD and this thing fits them perfectly !

    I had mentioned making my own hull holder out of plywood earlier but hulls will rotate in my tool if you don't bare down on it pretty hard.

    I have to tell you this tool is far superior and grips the hulls tight without deforming them in any way. For $10 you can't go wrong.

    It is a "Bussman Fuse Puller" made by the Eaton Company.

    Randy
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    Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 09-12-2020 at 08:53 PM.
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check