RotoMetals2Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplyWideners
RepackboxInline FabricationLoad DataLee Precision
Titan Reloading
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 34 of 34

Thread: A gift from a friend

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ft Worth, Texas
    Posts
    634
    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post
    I hope that helps make your friend's gift a treasure to remember - and, impress him with your skills built.

    .
    How do I flat file and polish the barrel without damaging the segment of barrel with imprint (caliber and make marks)

    Seems as if I flat file and polish the barrel it would damage the lettering on that section

    Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    718 miles E. of Wall Drug
    Posts
    6,157
    those are very nice rifles
    I have one in 54 cal its is very accurate
    shoot real's and patched rounds out of it
    you will love the set trigger
    enjoy
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Nampa , Idaho
    Posts
    736
    I got one back in the 70's what a great shooter it is .Still have it 100grs. of 2f and a .50 cal. T/C maxi is a reel deer killer in mine.Have fun puttin it together.

  4. #24
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,334
    Brown that barrel and use Tru-Oil and it will be gorgeous

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    5,252
    Quote Originally Posted by John McCorkle View Post

    How do I flat file and polish the barrel without damaging the segment of barrel with imprint (caliber and make marks)

    Seems as if I flat file and polish the barrel it would damage the lettering on that section

    If the factory marking is deep enough, don't worry about it - since any file work is likely to be insignificant (just enough to remove any machining marks).

    If it's shallow, work up to & around the edges of the markings.

    Another option, since it's not a collector's item, would be to de-farb the barrel (disappear the markings, except the SN) - which many folks do for a custom effect.


    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  6. #26
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    southern MO
    Posts
    2,946
    John, your question about destroying the markings on the barrel during the filing work is a good one and I suppose it is always a possibility. However pietro has stated the practical answer to the question is the depth of material removed in the smoothing process is pretty small if you use reasonable care. I think you will find that to be true with your build as well. It is a very fun process. I sure would like to have a 45 caliber TC kit to work on myself. Good gunsmithing to you and enjoy it. They are great muzzleloaders.
    Stan
    Mark 5:34 And He said to her (Jesus speaking), "Daughter, your faith has made you well. Go in peace and be healed of your affliction."

  7. #27
    Boolit Master arcticap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    585
    Quote Originally Posted by John McCorkle View Post
    How do I flat file and polish the barrel without damaging the segment of barrel with imprint (caliber and make marks)

    Seems as if I flat file and polish the barrel it would damage the lettering on that section

    Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
    IMO every barrel and kit are different, and every person may have a different opinion about which method to use to finish the barrel.
    Not everyone would draw file or defarb the barrel.
    It really depends on the characteristics of the barrel, a person's level of experience and the specific barrel.
    Please understand that opinions can vary greatly on how to finish a barrel, a stock or a kit.

    If the barrel only needs to be polished and you decided to take it to a local gun shop that does a hot bluing job,
    they would usually further polish the barrel by buffing it out with a machine to help make it look like a factory blue job which is harder to duplicate at home.

    There are products that come very close to duplicating hot bluing, but can cost nearly as much as a professional blue job.
    It depends on what kinds of results that you expect and can accomplish on your own.

    It can always be reblued if your bluing method doesn't come out as good as you want it too.
    But if you draw file the barrel poorly that may not be so easy to fix.

    Just like anything, it's usually better to remove too little material than too much, because once you take it off you can't put it back on
    and it needs to fit snugly into the stock.

    You also asked about stock wax, there's Birchwood Casey stock wax to apply if needed. after the stock has been stained and/or oiled.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    791
    . . . prob put in a 209 conversion nipple . . .
    Eh?!? Why would you? May want to consider not fixing what isn't broken. Having 40-some years of competition and field shooting under my belt, I can attest to the reliability of plain old #11's, though for hunting, I defer to the use of RWS Vorderlader Zundhutzen (Front-loader Spark Hats - HAR! Still get a kick out of that), for their slightly greater sensitivity. Never had or needed 209 ignition, even in the most inclement weather. At Friendship, numerous shooters using percussion caps on the off-hand line compete all day without a detail cleaning and don't miss a beat due to reliability of ignition. Percussion caps have been in use since the 1830's without interruption and still work just fine. The new-fangled 209 thing was in response to the need for a convenient-to-handle and easy to clear ignition method for closed-breach in-lines which don't lend themselves to the use of percussion caps. For a traditional side-lock like the one you've come into, a Ted Cash straight line or snail capper is just the thing. Good luck with it. Post pictures of your progress.

    I smoothed my barrels by wrapping emery cloth of various grades around a file. The file will give you a flat surface to keep the barrel flats properly flat. Actual draw-filing wasn't needed. I found that it isn't necessarily desirable to get it chrome-bumper shiny. A satin texture will often brown or blue more easily as the surface is more wettable and the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown or bluing agent will adhere more readily. In my humble opinion, a rifle of that design is more properly browned.
    Last edited by yeahbub; 12-15-2018 at 06:01 PM.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ft Worth, Texas
    Posts
    634
    Quote Originally Posted by yeahbub View Post
    QUOTE]. . . prob put in a 209 conversion nipple . . .
    Eh?!? Why would you? May want to consider not fixing what isn't broken. Having 40-some years of competition and field shooting under my belt, I can attest to the reliability of plain old #11's, though for hunting, I defer to the use of RWS Vorderlader Zundhutzen (Front-loader Spark Hats - HAR! Still get a kick out of that), for their slightly greater sensitivity. Never had or needed 209 ignition, even in the most inclement weather. At Friendship, numerous shooters using percussion caps on the off-hand line compete all day without a detail cleaning and don't miss a beat due to reliability of ignition. Percussion caps have been in use since the 1830's without interruption and still work just fine. The new-fangled 209 thing was in response to the need for a convenient-to-handle and easy to clear ignition method for closed-breach in-lines which don't lend themselves to the use of percussion caps. For a traditional side-lock like the one you've come into, a Ted Cash straight line or snail capper is just the thing. Good luck with it. Post pictures of your progress.

    I smoothed my barrels by wrapping emery cloth of various grades around a file. The file will give you a flat surface to keep the barrel flats properly flat. Actual draw-filing wasn't needed. I found that it isn't necessarily desirable to get it chrome-bumper shiny. A satin texture will often brown or blue more easily as the surface is more wettable and the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown or bluing agent will adhere more readily. In my humble opinion, a rifle of that design is more properly browned.[/QUOTE]Thanks for that, never used percussion cap and no idea about their reliability...I'll save a dime or two and the aesthetic to stay with #11s

    For the draw filing/sanding...how crazy should I get...meaning to what grit should I go into? I have a tendency to go all out and though it's alot of work, high polish beautiful. I refurbish old straight razors as a side hobby and use very fine Emery cloth on those (think 2500-3000 grit) then finish with tormek paste. What would barrel Browning do on a mirror?

    Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Near Mazomanie, Wi.
    Posts
    1,195
    In my opinion, 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper is all the finer you need to go when browning the barrel. The browning solution needs some "texture" to work well. Install the furniture and if it is under the wood surface, carefully file/sand until it is flush. Then you are ready to apply your TruOil stock finish, and then brown the furniture. Apply your beeswax to screw threads to make it easier to turn them in.
    NRA Life
    NMLRA Life
    F&AM

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ft Worth, Texas
    Posts
    634
    Quote Originally Posted by mazo kid View Post
    In my opinion, 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper is all the finer you need to go when browning the barrel. The browning solution needs some "texture" to work well. Install the furniture and if it is under the wood surface, carefully file/sand until it is flush. Then you are ready to apply your TruOil stock finish, and then brown the furniture. Apply your beeswax to screw threads to make it easier to turn them in.
    Some of the furniture came what looks like "pre installed" I'm guessing as part of the manufacturing to ensure a good fit on the inletting...I assume I need to remove those bits and sand them separately then retest fit for what you mentioned here above?

    Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

  12. #32
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,334
    I accidentally discovered years ago that you can "mustard" brass with cold blue. Any body and everyone can have a glossy blue shiny brass muzzleloader; I like mine to look more genuine. My .02!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SE Kentucky
    Posts
    1,309
    Might want to check out Track of the Wolf, they have a larger selection of products for finishing both the wood and metal.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    791
    Removing the mill finish from the barrel, I started out with 220 or so and didn't go any finer than 320. Using a file to wrap the emery cloth around will help to prevent rounding corners that should be sharp, like where the sight dovetails meet the top barrel flat and the flats meet each other. You mentioned a concern for defacing the barrel markings by going too deep or being too aggressive, but if the abrasive is backed by something hard and flat, this is very unlikely.
    What would barrel Browning do on a mirror?
    There's a couple of points to address there. One is the surface texture and another is how the browning solution is intended to work. The shinier the steel is, the more of a challenge it can be to get an even brown over all the surfaces without any blotchiness. It won't look like a hereford cow, but getting the same shade everywhere will depend on thorough degreasing, after which it shouldn't be touched with bare hands, and then following the instructions for whichever solution you use. If you want a fine smooth finish with some shine to it, Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is hard to beat. It's an aggressive solution which is used at an elevated temperature, just about hot enough to sizzle water. It's stroked on the hot barrel using the included swab and instantly oxidizes the steel. You'll have to repeatedly re-heat the barrel get the whole thing done, rub down the whole thing with degreased fine steel wool to polish off the loose powdery rust that forms on the surface and then do it again - as often as it takes to get a dark even brown, almost black, taking care not to bear too heavily on the corners with the steel wool or you'll wear the brown off and have shiny steel showing. The downside of a shiny brown job is that the finish is pretty, but not very deep and not so durable. Trappers back in the day were more concerned about durability, so the brown was of a coarser texture and could take the wear of daily use. There are browning solutions and recipes for old-style rust browns which are developed over a couple of days at room temperature in a humid environment, rather than very quickly as with Plum Brown. The steps are very similar but take longer. The last one I did a few years ago was done by wiping on the browning solution and suspending the cool barrel over a bathtub of hot tap water overnight for several nights, rubbing it down with steel wool to remove loose rust, applying the solution and doing it again until I had an even dark brown after a thorough steel wooling. You'll know when it's thick enough by how difficult it is to get through the brown with the steel wool. When you can't get through to bare steel anymore, it's thick enough. A hot water bath to flush acids out of the surface, dry and oil the brown and the job is done - or card the hot barrel with paraffin to melt it in and seal the surface. The porosity of the brown will absorb the paraffin and it'll be truly waterproof. By the way, paraffin or beeswax is also an excellent anti-seize thread filler for breech, nipple and clean-out screw threads. Everyone dry-balls a muzzleloader once in a while and nipple or clean-out screw threads jammed with old fouling and rust like so it's welded in place is a wholly avoidable show-stopper. Anoint those threads while the barrel is hot and screw things in while the wax is liquid and getting them out again is a piece of cake. You needn't ask how I had to figure that out.
    Last edited by yeahbub; 12-15-2018 at 06:15 PM.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check