Nice old rifle in 222 rolls in Friday. Customer attempted a timney trigger swap out.
And he broke the hinge? For lack of a proper name. That holds the trigger in place via a pin.
So is this soldered in?
Thanks Bill
Nice old rifle in 222 rolls in Friday. Customer attempted a timney trigger swap out.
And he broke the hinge? For lack of a proper name. That holds the trigger in place via a pin.
So is this soldered in?
Thanks Bill
It may be soldered in what does it look like here inside the action? Soldered in a complete new one can be made and soldered in. if its machined on then cut off flat justbelow bottom of the hole make a new end and tig weld it on. Leave end proud all around so after welding it can be cleaned up and new hole drilled
Nothing on the inside. It does appear to have a hint of solder around the base.
Making a new one is in the plan. Thought I might lucky and.find the actual part. HA yea
I'll find out tomorrow
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Words fail me...
That is someone that needs to be slapped if they even glance at a screwdriver.
Robert
Wow. I'm a 788 aficionado, and I've never seen that failure before, or even heard of it.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
An angel cries when a 788 is hurt.
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You need to have it tiged and reshape and dril it to do it right. Heat sink around it and you will be good to go. That has to be solid!!! as if it lets go when the rifle is loaded boom.
The trigger stud is copper brazed in place.
Look at the slot the trigger lays in, they milled it first, then put the stud in place.
Person tried to hammer the cross pin in place with the tension screw in the up position, this is even covered in Timney's instructions.
A new stub will have to be made and silver soldered in place. Take care to measure things before working on the stud as the hole needs to be in the correct location otherwise the bolt stop will not work properly.
JW
Mucho Thanks JW!
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another option would be to drill and tap the frame and make a screw in stud.
I never felt the need to replace a 788's trigger. The worst I had from 7 of them was 5# that felt lighter because of the crisp let off. We used trigger shoes back then also.
Oh how I wish I had the 788's I traded or sold back in the 80's. Not trying to hijack the thread but I have had 5 788's and have not encountered or heard of this bubba problem. I have replaced triggers in 788's for several people and it is straightforward when you follow the directions. And as TEXAS said I have never had a 788 that the trigger was needing to be replaced. Some have been heavier than others but clean and crisp. Sometimes I prefer a little heavier trigger pull on a light rifle where I can settle in to the stock and control my breathing. Thank the Lord that I still have the 788 in 6MM with the long barrel that someone tried to glass bed and did a horrible job and ruined the accuracy of this fine rifle. New stock new rifle.
Years ago bought a 788 carbine really cheap that had that problem, Modified a clamp to hold it in place and welded it on. Worked fine but did replace the factory spring with one from erniethegunsmith which did wonders for the pull. Had hoped it would be a nice light rifle but was heavier than I expected so sold it off. Shot cast really well.
Isn't the sear spring also the trigger return spring on the 788's factory trigger? Seems like I remember a modification where that spring is shortened and a separate return spring and screw is installed.
Decreed by our Creator: The man who has been made able to believe and understand that Jesus Christ has been sent into this world by the Father has been born of the Spirit of God. This man shall never experience spiritual death. He will live forever!
I had a 788 once ,never paid attention to trigger as it worked.
I have no idea about the original trigger it was not given to us. It's in line to be worked on.
After I clean up a tang and install 2 threaded bushings for a sad attempt at a tang sight install.
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It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years (Abe Lincoln)
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” George Washington
Merlin101 it appears they went "oil patch" on that one! The tang sight base needs to be long and wide
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |