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Thread: bullet appearance after lapping lee mold

  1. #41
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
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    I have several aluminum Lee molds and find them to be more difficult to use well than steel or cast iron molds. As others have said, you have to keep the mold hot. That is not the same thing as keeping the melted alloy hot. If you don't flow into the mold fast enough and if you don't fill/cut/dump fast enough the mold will run too cold and will cause the lines shown in the first photos. When the boolits just start looking frosted the mold temp is at the top of the perfect range.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've had similar experiences with Lee and multi-cavity molds.
    Of course the sprue plate needs more whacking to cut the sprues - there are a lot of them to cut and they are progressively cooling as you get around to cutting them.
    In my experience, any aluminum mold fills better when casting hot and fast. Aluminum is a higher conductor so heats faster and cools faster than a steel mold. The only way I've found to get really good fill is to heat the pot higher than is really needed and then gradually dial it back as your session progresses until you find the sweet spot - a balance between pot temp and mold temp regulation according to the speed you are pouring, resting and dropping.
    I used to smoke molds too but now don't bother figuring it may get you a few decent looking boolits ahead but doesn't really make a noticeable difference throughout a casting session.

    Other than that, I must ask, have you loaded and shot any of your questionable boolits?
    My opinion is... if you can lube and size them as you would a perfectly cast example, you probably would be hard pressed to notice a difference between those and your "better" cast projectiles at normal handgun ranges.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    I looked at Comet when I was going to lap a Lee mould....that has to be one of the worst things to use on a soft aluminum mould. It is rough and coarse ...may be OK for steel but not aluminum.
    I used Turtle Wax automotive car rubbing compound first....very lightly and then the finer polishing compound. I would advise you to do it again with the polishing compound to remove the scratches that God Awful Comet made...
    6 cavity Lee moulds really need a hot plate to get them hot and keep them hot....they loose heat very quickly , your boolits are showing symptoms of too cold...jack the pot heat up also...I start at 750 and back down as everything heats up .
    Good luck
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  4. #44
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huvius View Post
    ...

    Other than that, I must ask, have you loaded and shot any of your questionable boolits?
    My opinion is... if you can lube and size them as you would a perfectly cast example, you probably would be hard pressed to notice a difference between those and your "better" cast projectiles at normal handgun ranges.
    I debated a bit about this. I am not culling them 100% now. If they look reasonable but a little soft I am keeping some of them. I want the 45's for shooting bullseye. So the distances we're shooting indoors is 50', outdoors it is 25 and 50 yards. The high masters would be shooting a 2" group at 50 yards. I am probably shooting closer to 70-80% right now. So the consistency of the bullet probably isn't going to be affecting my score that much. I picked up some sizers off of Midsouth. It was the best deal even though shipping is sort of expensive. Well, everything was so cheap, that I bought an extra sizer and mold for my 38 special. Of course that additional sizer was back ordered. So this is an exercise in patience.

    I picked up a pid, heatsink and ssr off of eBay. I also bought a thermocouple and a screw terminal. I hadn't heard back from Hatch (granted it hasn't been long but I was wondering what the parts would cost) so I started pricing things. I think it will be pretty cheap to build a pid. The pain point will be waiting for the parts to ship on the slow boat. I have bought a lot of items from over seas before. These are from Hong Kong. In my experience things ship quicker from there.
    Last edited by weeple2000; 12-08-2018 at 12:52 PM.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Weeple2000 said. "The high masters would be shooting a 2" group at 50 yards. I am probably shooting closer to 70-80% right now. So the consistency of the bullet probably isn't going to be affecting my score that

    If you are talking about offhand with one hand, then the High Masters will be shooting perfect scores all the time at 50 Yards.
    The 10 ring is 3.375" diameter. Now that is some shooting.


    Again I mean no hurt, harm, anguish or turmoil by my post I have posted on this posted subject. I am not baiting, trolling or calling out anyone. I am making a post based on my experience, knowledge and/or belief or opinion. That is all.
    Last edited by 44MAG#1; 12-09-2018 at 01:28 PM.
    We Know Mass Cannot Be Weighed But It Has Newtonian Weight And That Is Derived From Kilograms And Kilograms Can Be Converted to Pounds. But, Still Mass Cannot Be Weighed. But How is the kilograms obtained? Can Kilograms Be Weighed? Evidentally Yes It Can. But, Still Mass Cannot Be Weighed So Kilograms Must Not Exist. Funny Isn't It.
    One good thing out of this the next time I'm at the doctors and they want to weigh me I'll tell them mass cannot be weighed.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check