WidenersRepackboxRotoMetals2Inline Fabrication
StainLess Steel MediaGraf & SonsMidSouth Shooters Supply

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 48 of 48

Thread: Lighting in a shop

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Logan, Ut.
    Posts
    198
    Looks like you got the lighting all taken care of. If I had to do it over again, I would alter the shape of my house and drop the roof line at the garage wall, creating shorter ceilings. I wanted taller at the time, so I could swing a 4X8' sheet of plywood around without dinging the ceiling drywall or breaking lights. I wasn't thinking about heating it at the time. It's 23 degrees as I type, which is relatively warm for this time of year, its just too much space to heat. I now wish for 8' ceilings.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master


    mold maker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Piedmont (Conover) NC
    Posts
    5,309
    A ceiling fan in an out of the way position will make use of some of that wasted heat, but it will also spread the dust more evenly.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    9,266
    Mould maker, Im planning on a vent to outside the building to exchange the air in the room every hour or so to help with smoke when welding and machining.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
    woodbutcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    LaFollette Tn
    Posts
    1,095
    Hi country gent.If you are thinking about a floor finish like you spoke of,I would have it done when the floor has been fresh poured and cured.
    If you don`t you will have the extra expense of having to clean and/or grind the surface so that the epoxy finish will bond to the cement.If the epoxy does`nt bind to the floor on curing,the whole floor will possibly have to be taken down to fresh cement before refinishing.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    9,266
    Woodbutcher, Im still thinking on the floor its a bigger thing My favorite "chair" is my Trac Chair so its got to be a durable solid surface. Im considering epoxy coatings, the hard surface finish they do on concrete. And also a traditional ( for machine shops) wood block floor on top of the concrete. The smooth float finished concrete will be durable and easy to sweep chips and sawdust off of and to clean. Tracks will leave scuffs when turning. The hard finished concrete looks better with the same benefits an issues. The wood block floor is easer to stand on and more comfortable, more cushion than concrete. Im thinking 6" X 6" X 3" blocks. (Stack them in like the old cobble stone roads). Here when laid in snug moisture can swell them and cause "turtle" to form. More of a fire hazard when welding and cutting. And the big thing is Im afraid the trac chair may pull them up when turning.
    Ive got lighting about figured out, venting, heat and AC. walls and ceiling. Still need to make a scale drawing and rough in machine lay out, electrical outlets, Benches. Service panel. I need to decide on floor, Hoist, and some other little things. Windows will be up higher so busy bodies cant look in. This may also help let more natural light in to room and building, and help with security some.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
    woodbutcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    LaFollette Tn
    Posts
    1,095
    Hi country gent.Thanks for the reply.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  7. #47
    Vendor Sponsor
    Handloader109's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    1,329
    I'm a contrarian, I really don't like my 8ft drywalled, stippled ceiling. Prior owner did it. Stippled ceiling in a garage. Stupid. Lights are too low. 9ft would be great. 10 ft even better. Heat be darned.
    Make sure you wait 30 days to epoxy the floor.

  8. #48
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    9,266
    HandLoader, Im planning on waiting 2 months on the shop floor before I start moving equipment in. Give it plenty of time to cure and stop releasing moisture. Just to be on the safe side. ( I have read where some engineers claim the Hoover dams concrete is still curing in places). Ill bet the building will be nice and warm while the floor is curing out LOL. ight now If I can get it Im planning on 7 bag mix hair and tram for the floor. May have some color added to it instead of paint or epoxy. That way me being my clumsy self when I drop something and chip it, it wont show as bad.

    Moving machine equipment is much easier with the taller door and 10' ceiling. I also have found the taller ceiling gives better more even light distribution ( maybe not the right term but).

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check