Problem with my first powder coating attempt

[mpkunz]

I cast 60 bullets yesterday, 405 grain round nosed 0.458" . I saw on a youtube video a method whereby one simply dumped the bullets into the powder, sifted off the excess, placed them onto a cookie sheet, and cooked. I bought from McMaster-Carr some green powder, dropped in the bullets, but the powder didn't stick, so I never cooked them. I was hoping to avoid the electrostatic application step. Anyone have a cure for this ? Or do I just "bite the bullet" and do the electrostatic coating ?

[Minerat]

First off look over the Coatings and Alternatives thread the is copious amounts of information on non electrostatic methods for applying powder to bullits. This is not intended to lecture you as the members here will give you all the info you can digest. Reading the posts in this area is your friend. I'd start here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...powder-coating

I used the shake and bake method from the start and it works great. Good luck.

[Skunk1]

I also use the shake and bake. It is the simple cost of airsoft BBS and a #5 container. Smoke here on the forum has done a lot of testing with different powders and sells the ones that work best. I have bought from him and had no problems. Do some reading and go with what you’d like to try.

First off look over the Coatings and Alternatives thread the is copious amounts of information on non electrostatic methods for applying powder to bullits. This is not intended to lecture you as the members here will give you all the info you can digest. Reading the posts in this area is your friend. I'd start here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...powder-coating

I used the shake and bake method from the start and it works great. Good luck.

[Grmps]

More information on the powder you got would be helpful.

Many powders won't work well for ASBBDT powdercoating. (powdercoating by hand Airsoft BB's Dry Tumble method)

I've found the polyester powders (mostly TGIC) in semigloss and gloss work the best

[flyingmonkey35]

The key is to create static electricity in the tub.

This all has to do with your environment.

Dry low mostiree in the air works the best.

If you live in a humid climint the the bbs may help .

If you live in Florida panhandle and it's raining out even espc can have a hard time .

Try pre heating the bullets so the a warm to the touch. Then shake you should see if that works.

To hot they will make a message of the powder.

Good luck and post a pic.

Sent from my N9560 using Tapatalk

[Bama]

I had a problem with some 480s for my sons pistol and tried something that sounds strange but it worked great. "Ideal Yellow 77" is a water soluable lube used for pulling big electrical wires in conduit. I had needed a lube I could use in sizing bullets which could be easily removed that would not hurt the powder coat or the shake and bake process I use. In a previous test I had found that instead of hurting the powder adhesion after the bullet had been sized and washed that it actually made the powder stick a whole lot better. after I put some on the 480s and then washed and dried, the powder stuck so well that I had to tap against the sides of the container to knock off a lot of excess powder. The only thing I can figure is the lube has something that increases the charge capacity on the surface of the bullet. I have used it 10 to 12 times with the same results each time.

[Walter Laich]

I cast 60 bullets yesterday, 405 grain round nosed 0.458" . I saw on a youtube video a method whereby one simply dumped the bullets into the powder, sifted off the excess, placed them onto a cookie sheet, and cooked. I bought from McMaster-Carr some green powder, dropped in the bullets, but the powder didn't stick, so I never cooked them. I was hoping to avoid the electrostatic application step. Anyone have a cure for this ? Or do I just "bite the bullet" and do the electrostatic coating ?

from your description I would seem you didn't swirl or shake your bullets in the powder. You have to do this to build up the static charge as mentioned above

we have found that a recycle #5 container (number in a triangle on bottom of bowl) aids this. You have to have a top to keep the powder from flying everywhere.

AirSoft plastic BBs (a lot of us use the black ones as they are supposed to be the best) also seem to help the powder stick

I swirl the bullets/ASBBs around for about 30 seconds, then give a vigirous shake or two and pour the bullets, ASBBs and powder through a colander that I've enlarged some of the bottom holes so the ASBBs will fall out.

from there I pour the bullets on a wire mesh tray (check Bed, Bath and Beyond--other stores should have something similar) and move the tray to the oven. Once the internal temp reaches 400° I hold that for 10 minutes.

this works well for me--good luck developing your method

[Dragonheart]

First, the powder you purchased may not work with any other method other than spraying. This is the reason I recommend starting out buy purchasing your powder from Smoke as seller on this site. His powders have been tested by many and they will tumble coat.
Second the whole tumble coating process depends on building up a static charge so the lead will attract the powder. To do this friction is needed so the lead must rub against the plastic and in turn the powder will be attracted to the lead. Basically put the bullets & a teaspoon of powder in a plastic tub (#5 recycle code plastic works the best) and shake the hell out of it!

[popper]

Use a rounded bottom tub, swirl (fast) a lot then shake up & down a bit. Do not use too much powder. You should be able to easily pick out those big boolits (hemostats, nitrile gloves, whatever) and set them on the tray for cooking. Dumping powder & boolits is kinda messy and powder will pick up moisture & dust. Just keep practicing with the same boolits until it works.

[Smoke4320]

A few tips that have been mentioned above
Need TGIC (formula) powder and even some of them will NOT work for shake and bake
Need #5 in Triangle container to shake in
need to shake and swirl container at least 30 seconds .. Shake HARD let me say it again shake HARD

If you decide to preheat bullets do NOT exceed 140 degrees before adding bullet to the powder..

[Chainsaw.]

Air soft BBs or some pony beads from the hobby shop help alot. I use a #5 plastic container, the thin cheap throw away tupperwares sold at the grocery store are perfect. Fill the container about 1/3 full with the BBs/Beads, use one heaping teaspoon of powder, no more, add enough bullet to equal roughly 1/3 of the beads, put the lid on and shake it. I find a sort of shake/swirl works best. When you pull the lid you should have many bullets on top of the beads and some down in the powder, pull all the ones on top and set on your baking tray, shake again and retrieve, repeat till all your bullets are coated. Bake at 400 for 20 mins AFTER the powder starts to flow/melt.

[Dragonheart]

[QUOTE=Chainsaw.;4521867 Bake at 400 for 20 mins AFTER the powder starts to flow/melt.[/QUOTE]

Since powder will start to flow just over 150 degrees, what happens if it takes your oven 15 minutes to get to 400 degrees?

[popper]

oven 15 minutes to get to 400 Nothing. Black powder doesn't flow well so longer before the cure the smoother boolit coating. If you need better coverage, don't cure and tumble again. Powder will cover bare spots and doesn't add much thickness to the covered portion. After a certain thickness, PC tends to repel itself.