I've had one that came with 12 rotors and the Bailey Boat rotor but I have barely messed with it. I read several old posts here but want to stir the pot for suggestions on setup, use, freehand or mounted? Storage of rotors? Any useful info.
TIA
I've had one that came with 12 rotors and the Bailey Boat rotor but I have barely messed with it. I read several old posts here but want to stir the pot for suggestions on setup, use, freehand or mounted? Storage of rotors? Any useful info.
TIA
"An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out." Will Rogers
Use mounted - Store rotors in a segmented plastic box with a bit of VCI ( vapor corrosion inhibitor ) paper.
Last edited by square butte; 12-02-2018 at 10:20 AM.
Being human is not for sissies.
Good call on storage , those rotors like to rust . I loaded a lot of light handgun rounds with a little dandy powder measure over loading blocks in the past , but just because it was simpler for me to just run down the line of prepared brass . Click click right down the row - but it is much safer to charge the case one at a time with the stand , instead of looking at them lined up in a loading block . I think the little dandy is a wonderful little powder measure !!
I use mine free hand loading 5 shells at a time in a block. I store my rotors in a drawer but the plastic box idea is a great one.
Steve,
Life Member NRA
Colorado Rifle Club member
Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
NAGR member
Store them in a 12 gauge plastic ammo case MTM, Frankfort or J&J. They hold 25 and are perfect.
A 20 gauge shotshell plastic box holds 25 rotors perfectly, end up to see which one you're picking. I also use it handheld over loading blocks. Inspect the blocks with a strong light after loading to make sure you didn't miss any or double any up. Pay attention!
I have a 20 gauge Plano Shot Shell Box but it's holes are to small for the rotors to fit.
"An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out." Will Rogers
I use mine freehand over a loading block. For me that is where the value of it is. Then as always, the penlight that is on my bench gets used for looking down into each case to insure the powder charge is correct and NOT double charged or empty.
For what it is worth, the two most used tools on my bench are the penlight and dial caliper.
The dry mountain west is friendly to iron based items. I can just store the rotors in a wood block I made with 7/8" holes drilled in it. I also have made most of the ones I use. Brass, steel and aluminum serve.
Chill Wills
The Lil Dandy Measure is a handy tool, great for travelling.
The little flip top boxes for reloaded 16 or 12 gauge shot shells are perfect for holding 25 rotors, then you put the other three from your complete set in your three Little Dandies and you have them all accounted for. I still need to buy one more body so I can practice what I preach!
Then when I break down and buy the custom rotor from Bailey Boats I'll just have to buy one more body... you can't have too many Little Dandies!
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
I like using any RCBS measure with the metal spouts. It seems you get powder bridging with the plastic spouts.
There is not much to using them. Your time would be better spent actually using them.
EDG
Metal spouts? Metal Drop tube for the Little Dandy? Where?
Last edited by daboone; 12-03-2018 at 01:47 PM.
"An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out." Will Rogers
I have all the LD rotors and made a walnut holder for them. I make sure that they don't rust by periodically waxing the holes with JPW and coating the outside of the rotors with same. Having all the rotors covers most of my needs but there is always some slight variation in a charge that the Bailey Boat adjustable rotor would cover.
Does anyone know if the price is the same($49) as always? If so, all I have to do is get a USPS MO in the mail.
John
W.TN
The Little Dandy is the only component of "The Green Machine" that should be kept. It's a great device for handgun calibers.........unfortunately I don't use mine anymore since I got the Dillon 550 (but I'm keeping it anyway).
When I used it: hand held & results checked with a pen light.
Storage: in a nifty hinged cloth lined wood box that I acquired (unknown source) & have not the foggiest idea what it was designed for.
No special storing precautions & no rust.
The hand made items by Chill Wills are beautiful.
Henry
Using them to charge a loading block of cases is a disaster waiting to happen if a double charge will fit in the case. At least for this ADD person. My advice, mount the measure, charge one case, seat bullet immediately.
For a patient and disciplined reloader who is not rushed, charging all the cases may work 99.999% of the time. Is one double charge in 100,000 rounds ok? I suppose most using the Little Dandy will take a long time to load 100k.
There are thousands of users who have never had a problem but only you can judge if you can be careful enough.
Don Verna
I use mine mounted and store my extra rotors in a plastic 12ga storage box.
NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle
If you buy used rotors, inspect them carefully. Make sure the haven't been altered by the previous owner.
Rotors can be tweaked to lighter charges in a couple ways.
If you have a set of leather punches thin card wads can be punched and pressed in the bottom to lighten a charge. This works pretty good Playing cards make a .020 thick wad to adjust with and are plastic sealed.
Tape can be used to make the cavity smaller in dia by adding to the side and trimming flush with top edge. Masking tape or book tape are roughly .005. I like the book/ packaging tape for its better adhesive and again its plastic.
For a more permanent tweak a little JB Weld and cut to throw the charge with a flat ground drill. I have done this with solder also. Solder makes a nice adjustment and flows in nice.
I like the Idea of the Bailey Boats adjustable rotor. Don't care for each adjustment the hopper has too be emptied. Im working on a rotor that's click adjustable ( similar to Harrels or culivers) with a slide similar to lymans 55. Am going to start machining the prototype here shortly. What I heave in mind are 12 clicks per revolution which with a 20 TPI will open the slide roughly .005 per click. slide will be .437 wide and .5 deep This should give and adjustment range from almost 0 to around 25 grns. I get the prototype done I can adjust number of clicks to where it needs to be for .1 grns or less. Im currently considering brass for the material for the stability, reduce risk of sparks, and last for me ease of machining. But steel isn't out of the question either.
I don't empty mine to make an adjustment on my BB. I take the plastic drop tube out, put the cap on the hopper and adjust away. I have almost quit using the RCBS rotors.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |