StainLess Steel MediaRotoMetals2Graf & SonsInline Fabrication
RepackboxWideners

Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Loose sprue cutter screw

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Tenn
    Posts
    3

    Loose sprue cutter screw

    Whats the trick to keep sprew cutter screws in place? Staking? Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    west central Illinois
    Posts
    5,038
    Depends a lot on who made the mold. Most iron molds have set screws already installed that just need tightened. Lee aluminum molds will need to have a set screw installed or you will need to keep a pair of pliers handy.

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    2,934
    Divedigger- welcome to CB. If you decided to start casting to save money, forget it. You won't, you'll just shoot more.

    There are several methods of securing sprue plate screws. I would assume you are talking about an aluminum Lee mold.

    staking is an option and some people stick the thin wire down the hole or wrap the threads with it.

    the best ( my opinion and like taz said) is to drill and tap a brass set screw (I use 10-32) to secure the sprue plate screw.

    Lubing the friction point between the screw and the sprue plate (with synthetic 2-stroke oil) will help keep the screw from working loose (be carefull not to use to much or it will get into a cavity and give you wrinkled boolit. I use a bottle like these https://www.amazon.com/Needle-Dispen...dropper+bottle

    Casting boolits (lead bullets) properly is a science, once you know the basics, not a hard science.
    There is a lot of good information on CB. The Google search (top right of every forum page) is a gateway to all the knowledge on this forum. IF you canít find your answer there ask the question (Please be as detailed as possible, pictures help http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...g-screen-shots I would be very surprised if there wasnít someone on this forum that could answer ANY (firearm related) question you might have)
    http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
    1. Boolits need to be cast .0005 to .003 (normally .002) over the slugged diameter of your barrel for accuracy and to avoid leading. If the fit is wrong nothing else will work right.
    a. slugging a barrel (it is safer to use a brass rod or a steel rod with a couple of coats of tape to avoid damaging your barrel http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSlug.htm
    b. chamber casting https://www.brownells.com/guntech/ce....htm?lid=10614
    or pound casting http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rifle-chamber)
    2. the right alloy needs to be used for the velocity and purpose of the boolit (donít fall into the trap of going with too hard an alloy

    Economical way to easily test lead hardness
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rdness-testing

    Some alloys harden over time
    http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...Metallurgy.htm
    different alloyís different end hardnesses


    Lead alloy calculator
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...4&d=1341560870
    3. velocity the bullet needs to be pushed hard/fast enough to get the proper spin, have the proper velocity to accurately reach the target but not so hard as to be dangerous or strip the lead off in the grooves instead of spinning the boolit..
    The boolit needs to be the right weight for the riffling/twist rate of your barrel
    Powders range from fast to slow, you need to choose the right powder for your barrel length & application.
    Loading manuals list the best powders for certain calibers and boolit weights.
    NEVER use any posted noncommercial load data without first checking commercial load data to see if falls in the safe parameter for your firearm!! There are several firearms out there that can handle much higher pressures than others!!
    Link to free online load data
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...online-sources

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    jcren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    South, Central Ok
    Posts
    1,699
    Lee molds, either drill and tap the side of the mold for a set screw, or wrap a couple strands of steel wool around the screw and reinstall.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Divedigger View Post
    Whats the trick to keep sprew cutter screws in place? Staking? Thanks
    I keep a scruedriver handy when I am casting to periodically tighten the sprew cutter screw.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    west central Illinois
    Posts
    5,038
    One lasr detail to help keep the screws tight. Use oil(preferably 2 cycle motor oil) as a lubricant on the pivot points. This will make opening and closing the mold easier and put less stress on the screws. Also use it on the locator pins for the same reason.
    Use only a very small drop. The oil will try to migrate into the cavities and cause wrinkles.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    3,408
    The Lee screws come loose and them when you try to tighten them they break, you will prolly need to re-tap them for a dif. thread and use another screw from the side to keep the new screw tight, the alum. is very soft.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    The Abyss
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by tazman View Post
    One lasr detail to help keep the screws tight. Use oil(preferably 2 cycle motor oil) as a lubricant on the pivot points. This will make opening and closing the mold easier and put less stress on the screws. Also use it on the locator pins for the same reason.
    Use only a very small drop. The oil will try to migrate into the cavities and cause wrinkles.
    Divedigger,

    Use a Q-tip to apply the oil.

    Get the mold up to temp first and make several pours.

    Cut the sprue on the last one but LEAVE THE BOOLITS IN THE MOLD!

    Put ONE drop of oil on the Q-tip, with the sprue plate closed, apply oil to the seam between the plate and the block, especially at the corner where the pivot is located.

    Open & close the plate several times.

    Open the plate and apply a thin bead of lube on the BOTTOM of it on the side OPPOSITE the pivot.

    Open and close several times and dump the boolits.

    Now, go cast boolits!

    When you feel the plate start to drag a little bit, re-lube.
    We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    The Abyss
    Posts
    443
    And, Lee molds are notorious for this particular problem. Pick up a drill & tap set and a tap wrench, along with a few set screws from the hardware store. You'll be prepared for "the next time"!
    We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    NE Ilinois
    Posts
    1,739
    Take a small strip of aluminum and place in the Sprue screw hole and then screw in the screw--it will hold it tight. Or you can use fine copper wire, which also works well. When you feel the sprue plate is tightening up, when casting, touch a small candle to the top of the sprue plate screw head. If the sprue plate is galling (lead is sticking to it), wipe off with and oily rag immediately after opening it.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

    sundog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Green Country Oklahoma
    Posts
    3,312
    I have one 6-cav Lee mould that I just drill straight thru and installed a bolt and locking nut. Its ugly and does not sit flat, but it works. The rest of my many Lee moulds a side D&T'd for a set screw - usually done before the first cast.
    It ain't rocket science, it's boolit science.

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Tenn
    Posts
    3

    loose screws

    Quote Originally Posted by Divedigger View Post
    Whats the trick to keep sprew cutter screws in place? Staking? Thanks
    Thanks for all the tips. They are lyman 4 cav molds so I got a good bottle of 2cy oil and q tips ready for the next round of casting!

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy OldBearHair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Conroe TEXAS
    Posts
    315
    Thank you Grmps for providing all that good information in post #3 to the new people. And they are not the only ones who benefit.
    To the OP Divedigger, On one of my molds I put some JB Weld on the threads and it holds good for a time but not forever if it gets too hot! You have to be double sure it is adjusted just right before the glue sets up. All this in case you don't have the other options available to you.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    midnight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    East Troy, WI
    Posts
    971
    I use what is called a wave washer or spring washer. I keep both 5mm & 6mm sizes. It works especially well on old collectable molds you want to use but not modify.

    Bob
    Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu

  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Tenn
    Posts
    3

    Sprue screw

    My aluminum molds have handles on sprue cutters but I got a box ful of older Lyman steel molds some still in the metal reinforced corner boxes and all the cutters are to be tapped open with a mallet so I think thats where it keeps getting loose. Has anyone attached a wood handle on the cutters to make things go smoother? A steel 4 cav 358xxx starts getting heavy after a few minitues and begins working on the wrist plus have to pick up mallet and tap sprue open. I just need to work on my skills more with these heavy molds as it is night and day different from the aluminum being the hinge point is different and the sprue handle seems to help in handleing the mold. I am open to any comments and suggestions. Thanks

  16. #16
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    2,934
    The box full of older Lyman steel molds should already have set screws.

    Check this for your Lee molds --- http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/Mol...umentation.pdf

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    easternshore of va.
    Posts
    1,865
    Are the sprue plates tightened down a little to much , or do they just need to be lubed to get them freely opening and closing ?

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    brisbane ,qld,australia
    Posts
    596
    i find if you lube the mould pivots with bees wax,after a while the stuff carbonizes and sticks the sprue screw tight......no more issues............its possible a spot of loctite would do too....loctite does soften with heat,but it stays sticky,so it would be OK......I havent tried it yet.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check