WidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Load Data
Lee PrecisionReloading EverythingRepackboxInline Fabrication
Titan Reloading
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Should I change primers?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Concho, Arizona. At home in the White Mountains at last. Formerly living in Mobile Alabama.
    Posts
    1,603

    Should I change primers?

    I've noticed the regular large rifle primers really getting hammered in my sporterized swede 50 cal rolling block rifles. I'm pretty sure it is the protrusion length and possibly the shape of the firing pin. Also it might be that the original primers that were used in these old military rolling blocks had a very different type of metal and a thicker/harder material. I haven't had any pierced primers yet, but I would like very much not to have one in the future either. I have been thinking of trying some of the CCI #34 primers I have that I use in the sks ammo. Anyone else come across this type of issue, and if so what did you do?

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
    Posts
    19,340
    If the primers aren't getting pierced, I wouldn't be too concerned. My Trapdoor puts a real divot in primers, no problems.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #3
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Concho, Arizona. At home in the White Mountains at last. Formerly living in Mobile Alabama.
    Posts
    1,603
    waksupi,
    I'll have to see if I still have any cases that I have not already de primed and take a image of it to post. It is a real as you say divot.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Indian trail NC
    Posts
    784
    why not shorten the pin?

  5. #5
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,479
    CCI #34s are supposed to be a little thicker. If its handy, try 'em.
    I use them loading for a M1A. Compared to others, they do seem a little tougher and show less pressure signs.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Concho, Arizona. At home in the White Mountains at last. Formerly living in Mobile Alabama.
    Posts
    1,603
    Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try the #34's first, and then I will see about regrinding the pin, wouldn't want to grind it too short, it's not like you find these firing pins at your local gun shop if you screw it up.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,569
    Anyway you can lighten or swap out [for a lighter one] the mainspring? I wouldn’t mess with the firing pin. If its a flat spring you might add a piece of thick leather between the spring and frame at the screw and leave the screw a little loose. Change the angle of the spring in relation to the lower tang to make it flex differently and it should have less umph which should put less umph to the hammer. Of course those big hammers on rolling blocks [had a couple] aren’t 1911 hammers.
    Last edited by Baltimoreed; 02-08-2019 at 11:58 AM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Prineville, Oregon
    Posts
    521
    More likely your issue is from the old black-powder firing pin -- large firing pin hole, large firing pin, enough pressure to push some primer material back into the pin hole. All this makes a rasty-looking primer. Remington primers are also made of tougher stuff: I have an old Sharps-Borchardt/22 hornet for which I use the Rem 71/2 primer for its toughness to avoid pierced primers.

    Oh yeah, I shortened the firing pin in the rifle before I figured out it was not the length of the pin that was getting me, it was the diameter of the firing pin hole. Fortunately I still have enough pin left to get the job done, but shortening the pin didn't help one single bit.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,454
    Changing the primers may get you by for now and may work good. But in all honesty I would recommend having the one bushed and pin shortened and modified so any primer works safely. In the long run this is the better option. The old rollers Sharps and heavy hammers and springs really delivered a heavy blow to the pin and primer

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    61
    Is it just that the divot seems to be deep? Any cratering? Measure the positive firing pin protrusion. Positive protrusion is how far the firing pin sticks out when the hammer is fully forward. It should be no more than .050". Don't go grinding on the firing pin. You'll shorten it too much and ruin it. If it is too long you'll want to shorten it using a file. Determine how much length you need to remove and take a few file strokes at a time, checking length. Once you get it close to size, within .003" or so, round the corners to form the dome shape and finalize the size.

    My opinion, you haven't experienced any pierced primers, you'll probably find the firing pin is the proper length. This is a low pressure cartridge? Higher pressures generally lead to flatter primer dimples.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check