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Thread: Relineing a rolling block questions

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Relineing a rolling block questions

    Sometime back I acquired from Simpsonís mod 67 rolling block in 12.7 x44. The bore is pretty rough and the stock is worse and I got it for the proverbial song. I intend to make a 40-65 out of it.
    Options
    BRC has barrel blanks. Ive never cut square threads but Iím sure I can. Contouring is not an issue.

    Track of the wolf has liners for about the same money. Their 5/8Ē OD so it wouldnít take a lot of drilling since the bore is .515

    Iím leaning toward lining but brownells didnít carry a piloted bit that big.
    Will I have to make my own?
    Opinions and suggestions please.
    Thanks
    Woody
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Interesting thread that I am going to watch. Can't help other than I looked at the Track Of the Wolf page and they seem to have a minimum order of 8 pieces for their liners....should make the decision easier.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Minimum order of 8” is the way I read it.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfer View Post
    Minimum order of 8” is the way I read it.
    That makes a lot more sense!!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    You might contact TJís Liners and order direct. Last I checked they were $4 an inch or something.

    You would probably have to buy a drill of the proper size and grind a pilot on it with a tool-post grinder, but it sticks in my mind that Pacific Tool and Gauge might offer liner drills made larger than .22 caliber.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    As I continue to read through past articles I’m beginning to lean more toward rebarreling. My old lathe will not accept the barrel throu the headstock. I would have to hand drill I believe.
    I need to pull the barrel to see what is required as to threads, extractor groove etc.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just curious, how does the old barrel shoot ?

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If your lathe dosnt accept the barrel thru the head stock then the set up becomes trickier and you need a bed long enough to work the barrel over it with a steady rest. Most barrels come a little long so the barrel can be set up and the muzzle indicated in and the o.d. turned true to it if needed. This allows you to chuck in a 4 jaw and indicate in to the bore at the head stock then indicate in at the steady rest and machine the tub and chamber. In reality if you wanted to sleeve it a piloted drill made about 6" long and the back drilled and tapped. Drill carefully to this depth then a stepped bushing OD drill size and ID drill shank size used to support the back of the drill bit. This way you are supported on both ends and the drill motor is just turning the bit. I would stand the barrel up in a vise and square it close just so it can be eyed to make sure. In this way the pilot follows the existing hole and the bushing supports the drill from the new hole.
    A cup on the back of the step bushing 1" deep and 1" in dia tapered to hole size Will allow a supply of cutting oil to be applied and lubricate the bushing and flow down to the cutting portion then lubricate the pilot. A very shallow "thread" ( .010 or so) in the working ID will allow oil flow and good lubrication thru the bushing. A can under the barrel will catch oil and any chips. Run slow and break chips often a second person to supply oil is helpful. This can be done by hand with a little care and thought.

    The above bushing can be made from brass or steel. The working portion should be 1 - 1 1/2" long with a cup on the back 1" X 1" - 1 1/2" long tapered to hole size. The end should be a very light press in to the bore cut by the drill. Since this is your guide it needs to be exact in size and fit. Turn end and cup drill under .100 and bore to size with a boring bar to ensure bore is straight true and to proper size. the oil groove cut .010 deep on a side with a thread cutting boring bar. The cupped back end acts as a funnel making adding oil easier to do and giving a supply to work with.Give the Id of the bushing .0005 - .001 clearance on the drive shank of the drill.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Pacific tool and gauge sells piloted drill with interchangeable pilots. You will need to add an extension, drills are thread for the extension. I usually drill undersize and then use a reamer to get a close fit. T.J.'s liners 859-635-5560

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gewehr-Guy View Post
    Just curious, how does the old barrel shoot ?
    Surprisingly well. It slugs .515 and I shoot the lee boolit as cast. With my old eyes and poor sights it’s hard to say for sure but seems to put a boolit where I’m looking. I would no hesitate to go deer hunting with it. It’s just that I have another in 50 cal and one in 8mm.
    Both of those have been blooded this year.
    Ive never owned or shot a 40-65 but I think it’s a classic caliber for a classic gun. I have some wild cherry blanks curing now but may go with walnut.
    I plan to do all the work myself except case coloring the receiver.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    If you do end up installing a new barrel, someone here might buy the old barrel and stub it into an old single row shotgun, and make a poor man's buffalo gun. would make for an interesting thread. I've thought of doing that, but have about three lifetimes worth of projects already

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check