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Thread: how hard to re-bbl a ruger mk II 22

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Mike:
    I think most guys who try to replace one of the MK I barrels make two mistakes:
    First they hold the receiver in a vise, not the barrel, and try to unscrew the barrel.

    The other mistake is they get the barrel in a vise and then figure to use a piece of square steel stock in the recess for the bolt "wings" on the very end of the receiver!

    The first one collapses the reciever, the second twists the snot out of it!

    Correct procedure: barrel in a good vise, designed to hold a tapered barrel, then use an action type wrench that is flat on the bottom, to match the area that sits in the pistol grip, and round on top to match the rest of the receiver contour. Then get it as close to the feed ramp end of the receiver as possible, without hitting the feed ramp when you turn the receiver, and apply pressure quick and firm to "pop" it loose!

    As far as the insides go I don't see what you would get ahold of or be afraid of bending as almost everything comes off with either the bolt the grip frasme of unscrews with the barrel.

    Of course we now come to the lazy mans way to remove a MK I barrel!

    Put the barreled receiver in the lathe and cut the "ring" that butts up against the receiver as a stop. Once that is removed I suspect the old barrel will unscrew easily because it no longer has any torque on the threads! The down side is the old barel is now scrap!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Just an update on this thread!

    I got a bull barrel for my MK I and switched out the old 4 5/8's fixed sight barrel today!

    It wasn't as hard as everyone said it was supposed to be!

    I will admit I got a couple false starts but once I got everything rigged up right the barrel popped loose.

    I made an action wrench which was completely round. I then made a special Square post tool to fit into the bolt slot on the end of the reciever.

    I chucked the barrel in my bench vise and attached the action wrench on the round part of the reciever just behind the barrel / reciever joint, I added a complete circle of friction tape around the reciever and then tightened the wrench on that real tight!

    When I was ready to "break" the barrel loose from the reciever I added the "slot wrench" to the end of the reciever and pulled on both at the same time with the same amount of pressure! Applying equal pressure at both ends seemed to be the key to doing the MK I and II barrels as it snap loose in less than a 1/16 of a turn!

    Once I had it off I was able to try the new barrel and found it was about 2/3's of a turn from being "straight" up. A little math showed me I need to take .010 of either the end of the barrel shoulder or off the face of the reciever.

    Since this will only be re barreled once in it's life, and faceing the reciever was easier and faster, I took .0085 off the end of the reciever where the barrel butts up against it and tightens. A little work with some 600 grit sand paper and I was able to bring the barrel to within a 1/16th of a turn to full tight and the torque'd her in place making sure the feed ramp and the flats on the bottom of the barrel matched the correct area on the bottom of the reciever!

    Everything is go!

    I did have to fit the front lug to get the reciever back on the frame, the original was a little long and taking .020 off the length of the front lug got us back on tight!

    I then found I had to take .010 or .015 off the end of the recoil spring guide to keep it from hitting the barrel on re-asymbly.

    Things I new would happen did, such as I buffed up a couple spots on the reciever bluing during the take off.. This was not an issue as I planned on doing a Dura Coat finish when It's completed. I also wasn't worried about the old barrel so scaring it up wasn't a worry either ( yes I did scar it up!) As long as I have the chamber end to take measurements off of in the future, I will cut me a complete barrel from scratch one day, then I got what I wanted out of the project.

    I can take it the range right now but it has no sight on it. This week I will add a "heads up" display dot sight and do a trigger job as well as adjust the head space.

    It should be ready to shoot by next Sunday, if everything works out right!


    So the hard part of this re barrel was finding the barrel! If I had to make one from scratch I think I'd have about 100 milling machine hours in it! That's the hard part!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    One thing to remember about Ruger mark 3's, the filler screws that are in the sight holes in the upper receiver(up front where the barrel screws in) , are drilled and tapped through the receiver and on into the barrel, you need to REMOVE them before unscrewing the barrel .


    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check