Lee PrecisionWidenersLoad DataInline Fabrication
Titan ReloadingRepackboxReloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters Supply
PBcastco RotoMetals2
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 41

Thread: No RTV. Do I dare.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Crystal River Florida
    Posts
    993
    Room Temperature Vulcanizing

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    xs11jack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    O'Fallon, Mo.
    Posts
    1,127
    Do any of you remember the old wax coated cardboard milk cartons?? I made a few engine gaskets out of that stuff and it never seem to leak either.
    Ole Jack
    "'Necesity' is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of Tyrants: it is the creed of slaves."
    William Pitt, 1783
    "America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we faulter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." Abraham Lincoln.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
    rockrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5,310
    I have used alot of Aviation permatex #2, but now I use Hylomar (at least used to be called Hylomar), a sealer that RR used on their jet engines.
    Used the copper spray gasket stuff on head gaskets, but I know there are some that they say don't use any sealer on them.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Kingsport TN
    Posts
    944
    Back when I went to Automotive school, vocational and factory, you were taught to assemble engines with grease to hold your gaskets in place and only use sealers at the corners of the intake manafold and timing chain cover. I still build em that way.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Idaho Mule's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Viola, Idaho
    Posts
    1,000
    There is an EXCELLENT article on re-building/hot-rodding Ford's Y block engines in the latest "Classic Trucks" magazine (Jan. 2019). I know that does't answer your question but it may be helpful. Worst place for leaks is rear main seal area because of all the gaps (same as FE big blocks). Those old y-blocks sound so cool with dual exhaust thru fairly large glass pack mufflers, gives them a nice deep throaty rumble. Have fun with it!! JW

  6. #26
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,316
    Quote Originally Posted by MT Gianni View Post
    Sure, went through a lot of Permatex. But previous to RTV most replacement part surfaces were flat and square faced. I have even cut gaskets out of cardboard cereal boxes.
    And the old beer six pack sleeves.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,316
    Quote Originally Posted by Ickisrulz View Post
    The 352 engine in the 1967 F100 was an FE block not a Y block. I think Y blocks were used until 1964.
    I'll take your word for it. I disremember lots of things these days.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SW Wyoming
    Posts
    540
    If RTV is used properly it works great.
    I've used Permatex to hold gaskets in place, usually on one side against the valve cover or oil pan.
    The main problem with RTV in my opinion is misuse. The old adage "a little is good, a lots better and too much is just right" doesn't apply to RTV.
    In my experience head gaskets go on dry, or sprayed with copper sealant if directed by the manufacturer.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy LaPoint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    In a house by the creek
    Posts
    188
    There are better products, such as PERMATEX Right Stuff. The problem with RTV is when it is smeared thin or it squeezes out and sets up. It will break off and it get into the oil pan. Then the "flakes" can/will plug the oil pump intake screen and starve the engine of lubricating oil.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master corbinace's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    North Central Washington
    Posts
    733
    As LaPoint points out RTV is not the current best product. The Permatex product "The Right Stuff" in my opinion is.

    If it smells like vinegar it is not what you want. It is late and I am tired so I do not remember the different names of the compound but I do remember "No Vinegar Smell".

    BTW, The 292 was my first engine rebuild and as mentioned the sound is unmistakable all these years later. Thrush glass packs (remember the purple haired woodpecker?) followed by three inch pipes exiting each side where the bed and cab meet. No wonder I'm deaf today.

  11. #31
    Moderator
    RogerDat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Michigan Lansing Area
    Posts
    5,742
    Permatex and/or grease was what we used. I recall being told RTV was invented for the auto manufactures to make sealing easier when building engines on assembly line. It was faster and worked "ok" but wasn't considered "better".

    I still recall being chewed out royally for using moms hot plate to heat and anneal copper head gaskets for motorcycle. I was just thankful she didn't show up when I had the head on there getting hot while valve guides were on dry ice getting cold enough to press fit in by hand with a guide drift punch.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Originally Oklahoma, last 20 yrs E Tn
    Posts
    368
    30calflash, I guess no one picked up one your timing remark. I'm now in my late 70's and was a mechanic for 32 yrs(June '59 to Aug 91). I was getting screwed around big time by an employer that was smarter than anyone in the shop or State in his feeble mind. My last day I was replacing the timing chain and gears and intentionally set the chain in what would be the normal position. I was told it took he couldn't figure the problem out as to why it wouldn't fire up. Another mechanic finally saw the problem. JC

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Communism running rampant!
    Posts
    4,727
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckbuster View Post
    PermaTex #2 "Aviation Formula"
    Yes Sir!

    But not for aluminum so there fore not for aircraft or all these go doozers ..... motorcycles, snowmobiles, etc etc.

    Too much scratching to remove it from alluminum and you will damage those metal sealing surfaces.

    Three44s

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Communism running rampant!
    Posts
    4,727
    Quote Originally Posted by LaPoint View Post
    There are better products, such as PERMATEX Right Stuff. The problem with RTV is when it is smeared thin or it squeezes out and sets up. It will break off and it get into the oil pan. Then the "flakes" can/will plug the oil pump intake screen and starve the engine of lubricating oil.
    The Right Stuff! We have a funny story about that Stuff! I won’t bore you guys with it as it is long but we get a lot of chuckles on that one around these parts.

    Nothing against it as it is GOOD STUFF .... particularily where gasoline is involved.

    It works in about any environment but for convienence Aviation Formagasket that you brush on is more handy everyday.

    The goobers from RTV is the problem.

    I have a crazy story on that stuff: We have a 64 CJ5 for banging around the ranch. Every time you took it out to the far corners of the spread that dirty scumbag would make you walk home!

    Every Time!

    One day I was walking home and had gotten perhaps 200 yds away from it and remembered there were a crescent and pair of pliers in it so I marched back and proceeded to pull the fuel hose off the bottom of the fuel tank. Not a drop of gas came out!

    The back story was that we had just gotten the tank back from a competent radiator shop and a guy working for us had reinstalled it.

    I back blow on the hose and get an immediate response (face full of gas).

    I fire the Jeep up and drive home.

    We yank the fuel tank out and dump the contents into a bucket(s). And there in the bottom lay six little blue rubber balls of silicone. Perfect size to work as check balls for stopping the fuel from leaving the tank.

    The goof ball working for us had siliconed the sending unit onto the top of the tank ran the screws through it and plucked them into the bottom of the tank.

    We will never know how many good rebuilds on components have been destroyed by the use/misuse of RTV but it must be many.

    Three44s
    Last edited by Three44s; 11-30-2018 at 11:30 AM.

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    9,013
    Quote Originally Posted by Three44s View Post
    ...The goobers from RTV is the problem.

    I have a crazy story on that stuff: We have a 64 CJ5 for banging around the ranch. Every time you took it out to the far corners of the spread that dirty scumbag would make you walk home!

    Every Time!

    One day I was walking home and had gotten perhaps 200 yds away from it and remembered there were a crescent and pair of pliers in it so I marched back and proceeded to pull the fuel hose off the bottom of the fuel tank. Not a drop of gas came out!

    The back story was that we had just gotten the tank back from a competent radiator shop and a guy working for us had reinstalled it.

    I back blow on the hose and get an immediate response (face full of gas).

    I fire the Jeep up and drive home.

    We yank the fuel tank out and dump the contents into a bucket(s). And there in the bottom lay six little blue rubber balls of silicone. Perfect size to work as check balls for stopping the fuel from leaving the tank.

    The goof ball working for us had siliconed the sending unit onto the top of the tank ran the screws through it and plucked them into the bottom of the tank.

    We will never know how many good rebuilds on components have been destroyed by the use/misuse of RTV but it must be many.

    Three44s
    I had a 57 F100 that had enough rust in the tank to do the same thing. I got pretty good at blowing the rust loose, as long as the filler cap was off. The big trick was remembering to put it back on before driving off.

    That old 292 (or maybe 272 not sure which) sure had a lot of low end torque, even with just a three speed transmission.

    Fun times driving old junk.

    The last engine I rebuilt I used mainly copper spray adhesive to stick the gaskets in place it works no leaks after several years.

    Robert

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master

    jonp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8,281
    I've used Ultra Black on a couple of vehicles valve covers when replacing the gaskets to fill the gaps and under the gasket, thinly. Worked fine for me. The only place I used it in place of a gasket was at the rear diff cover on my F150. Didn't have a lead but when I removed it to replace the drive axles I used a gasket and didn't use it again.

    I always made sure to go around the outside of the bolt holes not inside of them to stop the silicone from entering the engine or differential and just enough to do the job not gob it on.

    If there are no gaps I don't think I'd use it instead of a gasket. Oil pans etc get a gasket and I've had no leaks there on 3 of my current vehicles.
    I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled

    It is not with strength one will prevail; those who oppose The Lord will be broken

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    gardners pa.
    Posts
    3,443
    I use it on the water pump to block gaskets. also on the intake gaskets that way I can reuse them. head gaskets get al. or copper paint. I only udr the steel shim gaskets. oil pan I put studs in the block they hold the gaskets in place while putting the pan on.

  18. #38
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    another vote to leave it off. If you buy quality gaskets its not needed and will just make the next disassembly a pain in the but. It can be used on intakes and I usually install them leaving the front and rear gasket pieces off and using silicone instead but not in combination and use a bit on the water pump bolts that go into the water jacket but that's it. About the best use for it is to tack gaskets in place so you don't have to use 4 hands to put something together. But like brillcream just a dab will do you. Id bet most motors you see with it dripping out of every orfice were put together in someones back yard and they didn't even know what a torque wrench was. Another use for it is in a pinch it can be used on motors that you just cant buy gaskets for anymore like some of the old flat heads.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    Some engines used to specify RTV at the corners of the intake manifold and where the oil pan rails met the front and rear oil pan end gaskets. With cars having an oxygen sensor RTV. Is usually a no no.
    EDG

  20. #40
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    theres sensor safe rtv.
    Quote Originally Posted by EDG View Post
    Some engines used to specify RTV at the corners of the intake manifold and where the oil pan rails met the front and rear oil pan end gaskets. With cars having an oxygen sensor RTV. Is usually a no no.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check