Hammer question

[Mr_Sheesh]

Hi all. I have shot one 380 auto pistol in the past, but it tended to like to poke holes in the web of my hand with the hammer spur.

If I bob that hammer spur, it will lighten the hammer and I'm concerned that reliability could suffer. Unless I added more mass back onto the hammer.

How to folks solve this sort of issue? This was on a Browning BDA but the problem exists with anything non 1911 (On those you just put a Commander hammer on it, have to make sure the sear's good with that hammer of course.)

Thanks!

[Tatume]

I've bobbed revolver hammers and never had a problem.

[Dan Cash]

You can bob the hammer on a 1911 style pistol IF you are going to carry cocked and locked as long as the main spring is at least stock weight. Trying to lower a bobbed hammer on a loaded chamber is very hazardous. Changing a standard spur to a Commander type hammer requires modification or replacement of grip safety. In the case of the BDA, I doubt that you will have an ignition problem from reducing the hammer spur but it should not be necessary to remove much spur to stop the bite.

[rking22]

From memory, the BDA is Beretta made. There are Beretta 84 modelsx that, I think, come with commander style hammers. Those mainsprings and hammers might be easily fit to a BDA. At least something to look at. My 84BB, has the "ring"type hammer. BDAs have become interesting to some collectors, keeping your old hammer could be worth some coin in the long run.

[El Bibliotecario]

I have shortened the spur on two hammers with no problem. I had no problem manipulating the altered hammer with my thumb because I took off just enough material to eliminate the pinching, leaving most of the hammer intact. I can't speak for someone else's pistol.

[Tackleberry41]

I have cut a few hammers and never had it be an issue. Is it the hammer? I have a 1911 in 357 sig, grip safety was doing the biting, just the stiffer recoil, rounded the edges much better. And had a little SCCY 9mm it bit the back of your knuckle on your thumb, just way the pistol was.

[Mr_Sheesh]

When you see the hole it'll poke in the web of my hand (between thumb and index finger) you, too, would become a believer that it's the hammer spur.

Partly because there IS no grip safety (it's a solid frame in that area) and partly because only the hammer spur CAN reach there.

I can try looking at other hammers from different models, that is a good idea. Just would have to be sure it's safe sear wise

[country gent]

Bobbing a hammer is more involved than it looks at times. Most pistols do have enough mainspring tension to over come the lightened hammer and the Lightened hammer does give a faster lock time. Some look for a heavier mainspring to use with the lightened Hammer, this offers an even faster lock time but can adversely affect trigger pull making it heavier. The last is weigh the hammer cut the spur and weld on stock on back side of hammer between spur and hammer to the original weight again. This keeps every thing very close to the same but the welding can affect metallurgy of the hammer. The rowel type hammers if available offer the best of both worlds.
I would recommend for the home smith to start with a second hammer and modify it to what they want. A new hammer with the spur cut off and a ring fabricated and welded on in a radius to locate and support it, then cleaned up to smooth and refinished takes some time. It may also take some trial and error to get exactly right.
Look at different rowel style and bobbed hammers to see the form shape and style decide which will work and what looks right to you. Then start working from there. Trace out the hammer on a piece of paper ( give yourself several tracings) here you can add subtract from the hammer seeing the side profile. It also once you get the form allows you to measure out the shapes and parts.

[Petrol & Powder]

The amount of mass you're losing isn't that great. I've bobbed a lot of revolver hammers and if you keep everything else stock, there are zero problems. Pistol hammers are a bit different but the differences aren't huge.

I don't think there's enough mass in that spur portion of the hammer to make much difference in the total weight of the hammer. And, you don't need to remove the entire spur, just the part that's causing the hole in your hand ! Reduce the end of the spur, round the rear portion and radius the lower edge and see if that helps.

[str8wal]

And, you don't need to remove the entire spur, just the part that's causing the hole in your hand ! Reduce the end of the spur, round the rear portion and radius the lower edge and see if that helps.

I agree, a small radius may be all that is needed to alleviate the issue. And shouldn't cause problems with function.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Likely most of the spur; Might make best sense to ask a pistol smith about replacing the current hammer by buying a Beretta M84 hammer & honing the hammer to match my sear etc.?

M84 https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/B515808

BDA https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C51279

For examples.

[Petrol & Powder]

I would grind off and smooth enough of the spur to address the hammer bite problem and try it. I really don't think you're going to lose enough mass to matter.

[Dale53]

My original Walther PPK .380 would eat me alive. My solution was VERY satisfactory - I swapped it for a Sig Sauer .380. Totally solved the problem.

Each of us has different shaped hands, thicker, thinner, etc. What works for me would not necessarily work for you.
A feller can end up with more money in a project that he expects. A good swap is sometimes a MUCH better solution.

FWIW
Dale53