Need to Beagle a Lyman 311284 from .309 to .312 for use in a rolling block 30-40 krag with a .311 barrel.
Has anyone tried this with this bullet?
Need to Beagle a Lyman 311284 from .309 to .312 for use in a rolling block 30-40 krag with a .311 barrel.
Has anyone tried this with this bullet?
Does your mold actually drop .309 from the alloy you are planning to use? The only 311284s I've ever cast were from an older (Ideal?) mold borrowed from a friend and it dropped right around .313 from my homebrew #2 alloy...which turned out to be just a bit smaller than needed for a 1918 #1MkIII. My 45th Edition Lyman Handbook reads "Largest suggested sizing diameter is .313." for the 311284.
Bill
"I'm not often right but I've never been wrong."
Jimmy Buffett
"Scarlet Begonias"
You could try leementing it.
Cast some boolits out of the hardest alloy you have,
grind off the nose and gas check ends so you don't expand these
drill a center hole and run a machine screw in it.
IF you don't like the drill and screw method, you could center a nut over the cavity and pour through the nut.
(you will need to get a gas check shank size file and grind down the gas check shank so it doesn't get expanded)
Start with medium polishing compound and slowly spin the slug in the cavities on low speed in a drill.
keep track of the time your spinning with each grit polishing compound so you know how much comes off.
when you get close to the desired diameter switch to the fine compound and repeat.
This is a long, slow process requiring you to clean and cast with the mold to see your progress.
Yes it is throwing .309 with WW. Maybe I should go to helping hands and see if someone has a old 311284 that they no longer need that throws a larger diameter.
You can just Beagle the rear part of the mold or driving bands, the nose diameter will not increase that much. I have done this to a 311284 mold. Try it.
Have Fun,
JCherry
You might consider having the mould professionally opened up to the larger diameter. Eric Ohlen has a done this on several of my moulds. I've never tried "beagling". Looks as if some get good results using this method, but it seems to me there would be a better way.
Just put tape on the mould halves adjacent to the lube grooves. Both sides, both halves. Do not tape the nose or GC area. For some reason, it seems to affect only the area with the tape. You may be able to get an extra .003" that way. Go two layers of tape if necessary. You can always remove it./beagle
diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....
call Al at NOE and buy a two cavity of your boolit in the dia you want. less work, less chance of messing up and more chance you'll have something that will work or be sold for what you paid for it.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |