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Thread: Primer Problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Primer Problem

    Actually primer removal... I bought some used 32 S&W Long brass with the head stamp, "G.F.L. 32 WAD CUT" and when I tried to decap it using my Lyman TC FL sizer die, over half of the primers popped out normally, while almost half had the face and guts of the primer pop off, but left the side of the primer in the primer pocket. I tried briefly to pry these little brass sleeves out, but without success. Of course this means that I can't a new primer in until I figure out some way to remove the old piece from each. Fortunately, there were only about 20 of these cases, but I hate to lose this otherwise nice brass. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Have you been able to fix it? :coffee com Thanks in advance for all responses (except the ones involving "Just throw it away" since I already thought of that one! )

    Froggie
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    You could try a primer pocket reamer first. Then if that was not successful try a drill bit just smaller than the primer pocket, with a rubber band or friction tape on the shaft for grip ( or even a locking pliers like a vise grip) & turn out the walls of the primer, and my last suggestion would be to use a small standard screwdriver with or without the vertical sides chamfered by filing or grinding, to create a slight "chiseled" edge & try to ream out the remaining primer walls with that ( & it has a handle to hold. ) Kind of like a two sided "easy out" for removing broken bolts rather than a 4 sided or helical "easy out"..

    You may want to soak the primer end of the cases in some Ed's Red, or some type of penetrating fluid a bit before trying. As well, a small amount of heat, but just a little as to not affect the hardness of the brass, but just to try to break the contact of the side walls & the case before you attempt the "reaming" of whatever method you choose to help loosen the two surfaces.

    Or... You can throw them away..


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  3. #3
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    Just brainstorming, I'd make a jig to hold the brass and use a drill press with a bit smaller than the primer hole and bigger than the ID of the primer.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Had a handful of 357 do that a couple weeks ago. Thought it odd but just tossed them.
    I've since heard of it a couple times in different cartridges.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I had a bunch of 38spl that would do that. They had been in a bucket with some water for a while and I think that it had some reaction that caused the primers to really stick. Those I threw away but I probably wouldn't do that with 32 Longs.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Likely the primer cup sides are relatively thin and there are only about 20. I'd try to slice through it with a plain old utility knife. Then pry them out with a metal pick.

    redhawk

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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Easiest way is to find a tap that the ring is close to tap drill size. Measure inside of ring dia and look at a tap drill chart. Obtain a bottom tap in that size and tap handle. Tap ring and use tap to pull push it out. The thread cut thru the ring /sleeve weakens it, and when the tap bottoms out it acts as a jack pushing the sleeve up and out. For this work I like a t type tap handle. Split a piece of hardwood and drill a hole size of case for a holder to keep from crushing brass in a vise. I have done this before and it works. Kind of slow but it removes the remaining sleeve.

    As to drilling them out that will take a very solid accurate set up not only radially but depth as well to not damage pockets.

    The last option is a small pick and hammer with the above case holder working around the edge to collapse it and remove it. again slow and precise work, primer pockets can be easily damaged. A small pick on the seam tapping towards center collapsing it. Here a drill bit shank around .100 dia with a small flat chisel point works with a light 4 ounce hammer.

  8. #8
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    I've never had any luck getting the side of a primer out after popping the top off, but I was working with gallons of 7.62 NATO brass so I just pitched the offending ones. What I did do that worked was stop and soak the primers with penetrating oil for a few days, whatever your favorite snake oil is should work. Tumble with walnut after sizing to remove oils.

    What I think happens is a small bit of corrosion gets started between the case and primer, then the primer top gives before the corrosion looses its grip.

    One idea that may work is to sit the case bottom up on a rod then try to collapse the ring with judicious blows on a tiny chisel.

    Robert

  9. #9
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    i had the same problem with some 32s and 357s but nowhere near the amount you are talking about . i only had a few so it didn't take me long to give up and just toss them. if you figure out a fix let us know.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When I encountered some like that, I "re-seated" the primers on the remaining cases. I would put the case in my priming tool (hand, press or bench mounted tool) and add a little pressure to break the seal/corrosion that is holding the primers in place. Also, I made sure the deprimming pin was not too sharp, more blunt to keep the piercing to a minimum. For those already pierced, I have used a dental pick and a tap of appropriate size to grab the remaining part of the cup so I could pull it out.

    I don't know how the availability of 32 Long brass is, but I would usually put the pierced primer brass in a "To Be Done Later" box and fix them for "busy time" when I had no other reloading stuff to do, but I normally have plenty of brass and won't miss a dozen or so cases...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    An old reloader freind of mine kept calling these [cap-offs] I didn’t know what it meant till I had some, only a few though. I think those were military and sat out for a while in the elements. Any way i just held in small vice and took a smallish screw driver and popped em out. .556

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Guesser's Avatar
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    I just did a box of Fiocchi (GFL) 32 S&W Long cases. Every primer came out smoothly. These had been loaded with the FMJ RN. Don't know why that would make a difference on primer gription. Seated new CCI 500 primers smoothly.
    I've had primers separate when trying to punch them out, usually due to corrosion, I discarded the case.

  13. #13
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    I had a few .32 Remington cases with a similar challenge. Fearful of altering SAAMI limits on the pockets if I boogered them (technical term) -- I put about a 1/2" of Kroil in an aerosol can cap, standing the offending cases in it. Of all the crazy "tools" to used, I found an "antique" nut pick -- the tool used to get either bits of nut meat, OR, bits of lobster/crab meat out -- and my kind of working it at an angle I managed to free all but one primer-segment from the pocket. My initial thought was applying heat, but after I rethought that for a few micro-seconds -- fear of annealing the case bottom -- I went with the Kroil. I left the cases soaking in the Kroil for almost four days -- e.g., pre-retirement days, I put them in to soak on, I believe, a Tuesday -- doing the removal the following Saturday morning. Good luck! As a btw, I poured the wee amount of Kroil I used and was left back into its can.
    geo

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I've had this happen with several different calibers. Its sometimes caused by corrosion from the cases getting wet. Whatever causes it, its sure frustrating. In common calibers I just scrap them. The tap idea sounds like it would work. I heard another reloader talk about grinding a sharp edge on the short side of a small allen wrench and prying them out. The tool used for depriming berdan primers might also work. Good Luck with this!

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Thanks for all of the responses. Now I just need to sit down at the bench with the brass and the few odd tools suggested here and see what works. It’s good to know I’m not the only one who ever had this problem arise, but it’s still pretty irritating. It breaks the work flow if nothing else!

    Happy Thanksgiving!
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I'd put a drop of Mousemilk around the edge, let it soak for 15 minutes and try an easy out of the right size if it was hard to come by brass. I've only had it happen in .38 sp so I just tossed em.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    I'd put a drop of Mousemilk around the edge, let it soak for 15 minutes and try an easy out of the right size if it was hard to come by brass. I've only had it happen in .38 sp so I just tossed em.
    Good post. I don't know what "Mousemilk" is (I think it would be hard to hold them litter critters still long enough to milk one) but the easy out is an excellent idea...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    ^^^

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    mdi - https://www.mousemilk.com/ looks like someone has themselves a LOT of meeses to milk.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    The one way to get the primer sleeve out.
    The OD of the small pistol primer is 175. A #8 self tapping sheet metal screw will be .164 maximum. Just screw a #8 sheet metal screw into the sleeve. Then you can pull it out with Vise grips or push it out with a punch from the other side.
    EDG

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check