Wilson Combat and Wolff make spring kits available to lighten action. I did an older 60, and it involved complete disassembly and some polishing. Came out fine.
A light polish of the Rebound Bar, the Main Spring Guide, and the substitution of a Wolff reduced power Mains Spring and Trigger Return Spring for the factory springs will lower the trigger pull. If it is a carry piece, then I would not reduce the mainspring.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
Playing with springs may cause misfires, depending on the primers used.
If you purchased as new gun I would send back to S&W and complain.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
I would take it apart and stone the rebounding block (only 2 sides) make sure the hammer strut has no burrs. Check for machine swarf in the action (hammer and trigger pivot areas) and burrs there too.
I personally like the XTra power springs from Wollf. They are 9lbs. The S&W factory standard is 8.5lbs. I just stoned the rebounding block on my buddy's Model 36 and put an 8.5 in it. Slick and smooth.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
I'd shoot it some more as is to see if things don't improve. These aren't the easiest guns to shoot well, particularly using double action. Heavy trigger pull, etc. from the factory makes the guns reliable. Modified, tampered with, or otherwise molested guns often turn out to be the ones that some owners complain won't work well with a particular primer or don't fire with 100% reliability.
I'd adhere to EMC45's suggestion after following lotech's advise on "break-in". I always use the factory mainspring. In addition: use a wooden dowel (or such) slotted & arrange a 800 or 1000 grit piece of emery paper in the slot (a well worn piece of emery paper is better). Polish the walls of the trigger return spring hole in the rebound block. Experiment with different trigger return springs (strength) but make sure the trigger returns every time. A good trigger/action job usually is done in stages with emphasis on reliability.
My wife's model 49 is very slick & shoots every time.
Good luck,
Henry
It has been my experience over many years that Smiths wear in very well. I have a J frame stainless kit gun, and I have never tinkered with the springs, but over time it now runs about 2 1/2 pounds by my trigger gauge. I wish Rugers did the same.
J frames are not designed as target guns but putting three or four hundred rounds through it DA should begin to help.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
Buy a set of snap caps (dummy rounds with resilient primers) and dry fire the heck out of it. If that doesn't help, you're only out the cost of the snap caps.
Remember: Ammo will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no ammo.
I have a Model 60 in 38 special that I picked up used. I have no idea of the round count through it. I haven't put more than about 300 rounds through it myself.
I never measured the trigger pull since I didn't get it for a target gun. The double action pull doesn't feel bad though. Somewhat heavier than my model 15 but the model 15 has had thousands of rounds through it.
The snap cap idea is a good one.
Load yourself a small mountain of light wadcutter loads, go to the range, and forget that your revolver even has a single action setting.
I'd bet that gun has a DA trigger of 10-12 pounds, in which case, it left the factory just like every other J-frame, and there's nothing wrong with it. Shooting DA takes a bit of mental adjustment and a lot of practice - it's all about putting the emphasis on making a clean, steady trigger press while CONSTANTLY correcting the sight alignment, and not caring one whit about the exact time of ignition (i.e., "surprise break"). This is what you SHOULD be doing with single action, but we tend to get into the habit of forcing the break when the sights look good. This does not translate to DA at all. The good news is once you get that little bit of brain wiring right, your SA shooting will improve markedly for it - although you may find that you quit bothering to thumb the hammer back at all on revolvers. That's certainly been the case for me.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
I shoot all my K, J and I frame guns better in double action than single. I just ride the trigger and "stack" it and shoot. They do well.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
Just a few thoughts on the subject at hand.
1. The J frame coil spring does add considerable weight to the DA trigger pull.
2. J frames are more difficult to fire with accuracy than the K, L, and N frames.
3. J frames are a booger to fire DA no matter what.
My suggestion is you practice allot and learn how to shoot the little popper DA. My solution was to install bigger grips to get a good grip on the gizmo. All is good now, both SA and DA.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
i appreciate all yer valued inputs.
i'm just gonna shoot the dang gun. only have maybe 300 of my "medium" hand loads through it, so i think that's part of the issue. the other part is clearly me not getting in enuf d/a trigger time. though i can reliably hit an 8" plate at 7 yards with rapid fire, those 5 rounds are all over the plate. i'm used to much tighter groups, and can easily achieve that with the gun if shooting in s/a mode, with its real light 'n' crisp trigger. i'm just gonna bear down and shoot d/a only. i do have some larger, square shaped altai hybrid grips on order as well. thanx again y'all.
I have mod 60 that hadn't been shot in some time and a 317 I've shot twice in about 2 years. I went out last week with those and a m-28. The N- frame was fine considering the amount of shooting I've been doing lately. The 2 J frames were a chuckle fest. They are tough to shoot DA.
If you want to get proficient with DAO revolvers, purchase a set of laser grips. That bouncing red dot will teach you exactly what your doing wrong, as far as the trigger is concerned.
Winelover
EXCELLENT ADVICE...RodI'd bet that gun has a DA trigger of 10-12 pounds, in which case, it left the factory just like every other J-frame, and there's nothing wrong with it. Shooting DA takes a bit of mental adjustment and a lot of practice - it's all about putting the emphasis on making a clean, steady trigger press while CONSTANTLY correcting the sight alignment, and not caring one whit about the exact time of ignition (i.e., "surprise break"). This is what you SHOULD be doing with single action, but we tend to get into the habit of forcing the break when the sights look good. This does not translate to DA at all. The good news is once you get that little bit of brain wiring right, your SA shooting will improve markedly for it - although you may find that you quit bothering to thumb the hammer back at all on revolvers. That's certainly been the case for me.
On my 637, I honed the rebound slide and replaced it's spring with one about 2 pounds lighter. Big difference!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |