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Thread: Sabot Technologies

  1. #41
    Boolit Master


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    Well, I think I got it done today. I kept putting off the shooting because the wind was so high, up to 22 mph, and finally decided just to do it. I wanted to settle the charge and hull length at 75-yards, which will be 37.5-grains in a 2¾" hull. I'm sticking with the six-star crimp delivered from the Lee Load-All II. Okay, the picture below should cover everything, remember the wind was terrible.



    This wasn't a day to deliver the best group possible, it was a good run against the winds that I hunt in, and I am pleased with the performance. I did make a slight correction to windage and elevation and will be shooting again the next several days. After I fired the last load and while I was at the bench, a spike buck ran out at 125-yards, trailing a doe. Had I had another round, I would have shot him, and I don't doubt that I would have nailed him good.

    Here is the target I will be engaging in a few days, I mean nights.

    Michael

  2. #42
    Boolit Master


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    Since I start the slug project this fall, 166 shots using the Lee, Lyman, and now the Sabot Tech offerings.
    Michael

  3. #43
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranch Dog View Post
    Funny how experience varies. Do you have any pictures of hulls you have shot with either roller?


    I knew that someone here had suggested the Longshot loads, and I tried to find that information again, but we do get off topic in almost all topics rather quick, and it is tough to find something again. Thank you for the Longshot data!





    I noticed that your 38-grain load of 800X is quite a bit higher than the 35-grains listed on the STI load data. Did you find a data for a 1 or 1⅛ ounce that encouraged you to shoot that charge?


    In an email, that is exactly what he told me, and I've experienced it a couple of times now. It seems to me that if you do clean a barrel, that you need three fouling shots before you head to the field.

    I have experience plastic fouling with both wads supporting both Lee and Lyman slugs and leading from the Accurate bullet. I use Shooter Choice products, they reduce both plastic and lead to a thick liquid, and use VFG Super Intensive Felt Pad to remove it. I use these with all the cartridges I shoot.





    I'm going out to 75 and 100-yards today. I think this design is probably the one to beat when it comes to a home cast slug.
    Here’s some pics of



    As far as the 38 grains of 800X, their original data (which I saved somewhere) had 36 grains listed for their 3” hull. I’d figure I slowly bump it up a little for my USH. I stopped at 38 grs. Didn’t wanna push it any further even though I’m using my USH.


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  4. #44
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    More BPI roll crimp pics:








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  5. #45
    Boolit Master


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    Thanks, my BPI tool won't deliver that. What do they look like after they are shot?
    Michael

  6. #46
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    BT,

    What RPM do you spin your crimper? Also, how many seconds to complete the crimp? Do you finish at xx pounds of force or use a stop to control the crimp height?

    Very nice crimps!

    BB

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Yes indeed! Very nice crimps!

  8. #48
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    BB,

    I use a Harbor Freight 12 speed drill press set at 300 RPMs

    https://m.harborfreight.com/10-in-12...ess-63471.html

    I go by feel. Once I feel the roll crimp bottom out on the slug, I pull up.

    Depending on the hull is how fast or slow I go. Fiocchi 20 ga hulls gave me a fit. I have to move slow on those.

    12 ga, I move it a little faster, steadier pace.


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  9. #49
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blood Trail View Post
    BB,

    I use a Harbor Freight 12 speed drill press set at 300 RPMs

    https://m.harborfreight.com/10-in-12...ess-63471.html

    I go by feel. Once I feel the roll crimp bottom out on the slug, I pull up.

    Depending on the hull is how fast or slow I go. Fiocchi 20 ga hulls gave me a fit. I have to move slow on those.

    12 ga, I move it a little faster, steadier pace.
    Dang it, I got a 20% coupon from them today and I've got to take my dad to the eye doc in Victoria today. They are right down the street.

    Two questions:
    1. How much length are you leaving above the upper surface of the load?
    2. Do you have any images of hulls shot with your roll crimp?
    Michael

  10. #50
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranch Dog View Post
    Dang it, I got a 20% coupon from them today and I've got to take my dad to the eye doc in Victoria today. They are right down the street.

    Two questions:
    1. How much length are you leaving above the upper surface of the load?
    2. Do you have any images of hulls shot with your roll crimp?
    RD, I’ll take some pics this evening. Headed to the range today to sight in my son’s 20 ga. I’m using the 20 ga version of these for that gun.

    As far as material for the crimp, I like deep crimps. Half inch or maybe a little more is perfect. I wouldn’t go below 1/4” for crimp.


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  11. #51
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    BT: that is some excellent looking ammunition. When Ammo looks right, it generally shoots well.

    I am all about making good quality Ammo, that's why I built my little Hand Press.

    I also love overkill, and all of these slug loads we are working on are certainly that and more.

    I think the key to getting the BPI tool to work right is turning it slow enough. The common problem with most drill presses is that they turn too fast .

    For example the speed you turn a 1/2' drill bit for steel is 300 rpms and a 1/4" bit needs to run at 5-600. Most drill presses won't go down to 300 rpms so you are really limited to the size of bit you can run effectively and not burn up.

    I have an old Craftsman Drill Press in my shop that has the reduction idler on it and it runs at 120 rpms and I leave it that way so I can run countersinks in it.

    I have only done 2-3 Roll crimps with my BPI tools. 12 ga and .410. I had no idea what I was doing and they all came out perfect.

    Now that I have said that, I will probably never get another good one!

    If you look on Ebay there are always antique Crank Style Roll Crimpers for sale. I doubt you could even get 60 rpms out of those cranking by hand, but they were the standard method of doing it for along time.

    It would seem that slower works better.

    My .02 and I will conduct some tests on the mill later today. It is a vari-speed and I can go from 60-3000 rpms.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  12. #52
    Boolit Master

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    Based on the tests I did earlier this year with a couple of different roll crimpers, anything over 300 will cause to much heat on the hull. I tried the Lyman roll crimpers and two of the Russian made roll crimpers. The heat will set the crimp and sometime even looks nice but trying to use that hull again is almost impossible. I also have a Ideal hand crank roll crimper that works as well as, or maybe better than the drill press version.

    Personally any speed over 100 - 120 rpms is overkill on the roll crimpers I have.

    Scott
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20181129_144128.jpg   20181129_144138.jpg   20181129_144224.jpg   20181129_144327.jpg   20181129_144401.jpg  

    20181129_144524.jpg  
    Last edited by dsh1106; 11-29-2018 at 03:58 PM.
    Scott

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  13. #53
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    I have one of those Russian hand roll crimping tools. I is basically the same idea as the antique tools. Like the Russian hand press I bought, they work a LOT better than they look like they might. When the press mounted tools bottom out on a slug, I finish up with the hand tool. Gp

  14. #54
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    I have a antique roll crimper. Works great. The only drawback is its for 2.75” and smaller hulls.

    I’ve used my 18 bolt hand drill and achieve great crimps. The key is to cool the crimper down between runs.

    I think the low RPMs is so it don’t heat up too much.


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  15. #55
    Boolit Master


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    Good information guys. Went over to HF today and they were out of the 10" tabletop DP BT mentioned. They will be in Tuesday, what's another $100 into this mess?
    Michael

  16. #56
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    Greetings Scott, those Lyman roll crimper in your picture were the very best and still are.
    I got one from 1970 and love it but the Gaep European one in 20 ga nothing to brag about.
    Ajay
    Super Blazing Sabots

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check