MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionReloading Everything
WidenersRepackboxLoad DataTitan Reloading
Inline Fabrication
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 42

Thread: Russian Federation 12ga. Hand Press

  1. #21
    Boolit Master curioushooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    906
    Lee Load-All has never been made in 410 and probably wont. The Lee Loader was made in 410, and those are commanding hefty prices on ebay, about the same as the survival loader which I have found crimps nicely (as long as you are simply re-folding the factory crimp) AND sizes. Theoretically a 45 colt carbide ring die that has its top cut off to allow the hull through could be used to resize. But it wouldn't deprime.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    curiousshooter; Yes, lots of work-arounds out there for loading shotshells. I'll pick up hulls at the range if I can beat the rust to them. The simple tool Lee provides with the Lee Loader works great for removing the primers. I like to remove the primers from the range hulls before washing them. They dry much faster that way. And no, I don't wash the ones with paper base wads. Gp

  3. #23
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,872
    Once fired Win .410's are not cheap. I paid .15 ea for the 1000 I bought off www.trapshooters.com when I started shooting skeet with my .410.

    I also got a Pacific DL266 in .410 to load them and they come out as close to perfect as you can get.

    I originally bought a Paco Kelly set of .410 loading tools and they were nice made from brass and looked nice however the crimp function was useless. Sold them.

    My machine is set up for 2.5"shells. For 3" I can size /deprime, reprime, drop powder wad and shot with it, and then roll crimp on the Drill Press.

    You mentioned depriming before washing the hulls and this is definitely the best way. I put them in a laundry bag and wash them in a 5 gallon bucket. I do all my 12 ga hulls that way. I have a Lachmiller tool that sizes the base and deprimes the hull in one whack, works great and they are on Ebay alot. RCBS made the same tool for along time.

    I kinda refinished that tool as when I got it from the garage sale it kinda looked used.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    2,602
    Quote Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
    Once fired Win .410's are not cheap. I paid .15 ea for the 1000 I bought off www.trapshooters.com when I started shooting skeet with my .410.

    I also got a Pacific DL266 in .410 to load them and they come out as close to perfect as you can get.

    I originally bought a Paco Kelly set of .410 loading tools and they were nice made from brass and looked nice however the crimp function was useless. Sold them.

    My machine is set up for 2.5"shells. For 3" I can size /deprime, reprime, drop powder wad and shot with it, and then roll crimp on the Drill Press.

    You mentioned depriming before washing the hulls and this is definitely the best way. I put them in a laundry bag and wash them in a 5 gallon bucket. I do all my 12 ga hulls that way. I have a Lachmiller tool that sizes the base and deprimes the hull in one whack, works great and they are on Ebay alot. RCBS made the same tool for along time.

    I kinda refinished that tool as when I got it from the garage sale it kinda looked used.

    Randy
    I lke that Lachmiller press.

    Can you prime with it?

  5. #25
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,872
    No, it is strictly for sizing and depriming large quantities of hulls quickly so you can wash them and then feed them to your progressive machine starting at the priming station.

    If you try to wash hulls with the primers in you will find that the primers trap water which causes problems when reloading, even weeks later.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  6. #26
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    I've bid on three of those Lachmiller tools on ebay auctions and been out bid each time mostly from failure to pay attention and not from being cheap. Friend Ken Campbell over at the CBA gave me a very good deal on a Mec Super Sizer that he didn't need anymore. Hard to believe I didn't get one sooner, they really work nice. I toss the deprimed hulls in one of those mesh bags Randy mentioned and wash them in the washing machine, they come out nice. I then set them by the wall furnace over night and their good to go. Gp

  7. #27
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,872
    GP when I had access to an older style Washing Machine that's what I used too Except I also had access to the Dryer too so they got dried that way.

    It is surprising how much nicer they look after a trip thru the machine.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    swamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    1,162
    How would wet cleaning with ss pins do? I have been thinking about it and wondering if it could damage the hulls in some way

    swamp
    There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    swamp: I haven't tried it. Next batch of brass I clean I'll throw in a couple of hulls and see. It doesn't seem to me like it would be good for the hulls but that's just a guess until it's tried. Gp

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Pa.
    Posts
    171
    My buddy just did a video in this, neat little gadget.

    Armed society is a polite society
    Live A Little Learn A Lot

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    2,602
    Quote Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
    No, it is strictly for sizing and depriming large quantities of hulls quickly so you can wash them and then feed them to your progressive machine starting at the priming station.


    Randy
    .


    Thank you.

    Looks like a good quality tool, I don't like plastic very much.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master curioushooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    906
    Why do you wash hulls? I have washed brass before, but it seems hardly worth the trouble with even 410. Then again mine is not a repeater...so they never touch the ground or get shucked around in an action? Is that why you wash? Some other reason?

  13. #33
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    Curiousshooter: Most likely just being O.C.D. on my part. I like shinny brass too. Several of my "Vintage" shotshell presses have sizing dies that leave the brass scratched badly because the previous owners didn't bother to even wipe the grit off the saved hulls. That, and some shotgun loads burn pretty dirty and the reloaded shells just don't look very good. I'm going to try my Lyman Cyclone wet tumbler without using the stainless steel pins. The only drawback will be that not near as many hulls can be washed at once as in the washing machine. Gp

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    swamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    1,162
    Well, I tried a few hulls in with some 8mm Mauser brass. In my Frankford tumbler the hulls dance above the ss pins. Too light to mix into the pins. Washing machine does a better job.
    At least now I know.
    swamp
    There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.

  15. #35
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,872
    The reason you wash hulls is the same reason you clean your brass. It makes nicer looking ammo.

    By sizing and knocking the primers out then washing in a Washing Machine the hulls come back to almost as good as new. The washing with detergent removes all of the soot and blackness from the outside and cleans the inside as well.

    You don't really need anything but the hulls in the bag as just the hulls bumping up against each other knocks the loosened dirt off the hulls. Remember the hulls are plastic so not much is going to stick very well and just wetting them and then agitating them gets most all of it off. Some soap helps a bunch.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  16. #36
    Boolit Master curioushooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    906
    Problem is that many shotgun hulls (it seems all Federal) have paper-base bottoms. The spent hull is not water proof. The only shells in 20 and 12 I ever shoot are Federals (as all the Euro stuff is expensive and the Remmy and Winny stuff is not very flexible in reloading). The only 410 I shoot is Fiocchi, which seems to have a plastic base. So I would consider washing those, but not the Federals.

  17. #37
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    osetia
    Posts
    5
    Hello. This is the UPS-5 device. Universal device Sidorenko. It is still actively used in Russia. Often change the head of the device on the metal. In principle, the device is simple and reliable. I have a slightly upgraded version.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6UhdRX1TIQ

  18. #38
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by curioushooter View Post
    Wish it were in 410.
    I can't see any reason you couldn't just turn down the white plastic part that supports the shell to fit inside a .410 shell. Chuck it up in a drill press, grab a rasp, and go to town. I don't think the crimper would work, but you could always use white glue or candle wax and overshot cards.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    1,606
    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Tobin View Post
    My buddy just did a video in this, neat little gadget.

    that is just what I am looking for. a great video on the use of it!

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by toot View Post
    that is just what I am looking for. a great video on the use of it!
    I have the one for a 16 ga and it does what I want it to. With todays prices it is a bargain.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check