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Thread: Knives and Sharpening Method for Deer Butchering?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    The first deer I saw butchered was by my grandfather using a Schrade carbon steel pocket knife blade in 1962. I learned to sharpen a knife from him. Most of the dozens to maybe 100 deer butchered by me ans my brothers were done with cheap 1095 carbon steel hunting knives. I have also used 440C and other quality stainless blades.
    I carry a number of knives in my truck on hunting trips plus a steel. I have been known to use 2 or 3 different blades on one deer. By keeping the knife edge tuned up with the steel I don't notice much difference in the blade steels. I focus more on blade geometry and handle comfort.
    For cutting through through rib cages I like knives with short heavy blades and large handles. Those knives are usually old with wider edge angles. Skinning is started with an upswept blade and the hide is pulled off with the truck. The rest is done with a slender hunting knife or a boning knife.
    I use mostly common but quality brands and steels.
    They include Kershaw, Schrade, Case, SOG, Western, CRKT, Buck and Old Hickory. None of the steels are exotic. About 1/3 are carbon steel.. Two of the Schrades are more than 50 years old.

    Last edited by EDG; 11-19-2018 at 06:02 PM.
    EDG

  2. #22
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    I've been using a Dexter Sani-Safe 5in. boning knife that I got from a trapping supply company, seem to hold an edge well, and is my favorite for getting out the loins. Looks exactly like the black handled boner in the video. Mine worked well cutting around the vent on a coon and ripping up the back legs and tail. To bad I always remember that, when cutting on my deer!!

  3. #23
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    I like Victorinox seems to be affordable and works well. I have a semiflexible blade is good, and I also like a fish fillet knife. To sharpen I have two methods and cheap two sided stone from harbor freight one side is course the other finer. I have been using the Wart hog system it just works and is easy http://warthogusa.com/product/classic-ii/

  4. #24
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    yup me too. I butcher an average of about 40 deer a year and have one stiff Chicago cutlery knife and one thin bladed filet type knife and a worksharp sharpener. After a few cuts a couple swipes on the work sharp and there razor sharp again. One of the most important thing to me when butchering is a razor sharp knife. I like a good quality knife but whats important is it is SHARP. That it holds that edge through three butchering jobs means nothing to me. The work sharp is only a couple feet away when im butchering. It will put an edge on about any knife.
    Quote Originally Posted by MyFlatline View Post
    Second the Mora knives and the Ken Onion Work Sharp. Yea I know how to use a stone, but the work sharp is so fast and easy..

    As for the Mora Knives, I picked up a bunch off of Amazon for 10 bucks each. I gave 3 to the wife for skinning her rabbits and I have the others in trucks, UTV's Tractors , you name it. Used them on the last trip Pheasant hunting, they did a great job breasting out the birds..

  5. #25
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    I like belt too sanders too. I thought all belt sanders where for wood and had no idea they could be used for sharpening knifes till seeing a work sharp at a Scheel's. Took one home and was amazed at the speed and quality I could attain.

    This year for field dressing deer I used a Buck 605. It's a 6" rubber handled knife like their 100 series. I filled out this year and it dressed 3 deer with out needing any touch up but it could be steeled now. I used 120, 400 grit and stropped it to an edge with out any burrs. I've sharpened many knives and with belts you just have just have watch out so they don't too hot with fine grits.

    If you're thinking about getting a grinder for the shop look into belt sanders. I also have a 1 x 42'' belt grinder with grits from coarse to fine and a leather strop belt too. They are so much more versatile than a 8'' wheeled bench grinder.
    Oh great, another thread that makes me spend money.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    Been using the same 6" buck knife and smith ceramic V block since the 80's. Butcher the deer, clean and make a few passes on the V block, oil and back in the sheath until needed again. The blade stays sharp for many deer, just butchered two yesterday and while it still seemed just as sharp when I was done it got a few passes on the V block to make sure it stays that way.

  7. #27
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    Rick Hodges's Avatar
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    I use Victorinox/Forstner or Dexter knives for butchering, 5" curved and straight flexible boning knives. I sharpen with Lansky set and keep the edge honed on a steel while in use. They will do multiple deer without sharpening I skin with my hunting knife, a 3-3.5" blade with a slight belly in it. I do little cutting when skinning.
    Attachment 230740

  8. #28
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    the man that owns the sauage making stuff store I buy all my stuff from recommends the Victorinox knives. He told me there the only knives he will use to butcher. He knows his stuff so I have to believe him.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Hodges View Post
    I use Victorinox/Forstner or Dexter knives for butchering, 5" curved and straight flexible boning knives. I sharpen with Lansky set and keep the edge honed on a steel while in use. They will do multiple deer without sharpening I skin with my hunting knife, a 3-3.5" blade with a slight belly in it. I do little cutting when skinning.
    Attachment 230740

  9. #29
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I'm with DougGuy...only a Lansky touches my hunting knives. Kitchen and other utility knives I use a diamond impregnated resin bar, or 400 grit wet/dry.

    redhawk

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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    I had my best edges with a Lansky kit. https://lansky.com/

    I use the coarse, medium, then the fine 600 grit and see no need to go any finer than 600.
    I use the same system since I can’t hold an edge on a stone. I’ve tried but fail miserably at it. I go a lot further than 600 and it makes a scary sharp edge. They make an ultra fine and super sapphire stone. After that it’s a strop w/ some jewelers rogue on it.

    Using the Lansky, of Gatco, system isn’t the fastest. But it provides a consistent edge for those of us that can’t hold one w/ a stone.

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub
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    Anyone else use a “Chefs Choice” sharpener? Had mine for at least 15 yrs. Does a good job in my opinion. I’ve seen the Work Sharp” machines advertised but never tried one.

    Here’s the one I use.
    https://chefschoice.com/product/chef...r-model-120-2/

  12. #32
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    For what little cutting in skinning a deer you don't need a dedicated skinning knife.For cutting a Dexter,F Dick, or Victorinox or if you have fillet knives use them.Not much difference between a boning and fillet knife.Doesn't matter much for a couple deer but after 6 or 8 hours of cutting the commercial knives are a lot more comfortable and the thinner blades cut easier.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master hc18flyer's Avatar
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    A good friend is a custom knife maker, who was sceptical of the Ken Onion Work Sharp, now he is a believer! I have a Gatco system I picked up for a couple bucks at an auction that I use for my hunting knives. I picked up some hints on this thread, always room for improvement.
    hc18flyer

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ring3 View Post
    Anyone else use a “Chefs Choice” sharpener? Had mine for at least 15 yrs. Does a good job in my opinion. I’ve seen the Work Sharp” machines advertised but never tried one.

    Here’s the one I use.
    https://chefschoice.com/product/chef...r-model-120-2/
    I have one. It works good but not great. It's quick and easy.
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 11-23-2018 at 12:07 PM.

  15. #35
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    I still have two lansky kits one at home and one at camp. Still use the one at camp because I don't have to haul my work sharp to camp or fire up the generator to sharpen. they work just fine but the work sharp will put just as good of an edge in a 1/4 of the time. the one at home collects dust. What the work sharp is real nice at doing is butchering. I can make some cuts and every few minutes take one or two swipes through it and have a razor edge again. I respect some here that can use a steal or cross sticks or an Arkansas stone. Give one to me and I can guarantee 10 minutes later your going to get back a duller knife then you gave me. buddy who does buffalo hunts allway amazed me. When he skins and quarters a buffalo in the field he carrys a steal in a holster and can put a razor edge back on a knife with a few swipes while looking you in the eye and talking to you. Id be better off slamming it on a nearby rock. Ive tried about everything and you are going to be hard pressed to better a work sharp if your skill level mirrors mine. Its like a high speed lansky that doesn't cost a whole lot more.
    Quote Originally Posted by redhawk0 View Post
    I'm with DougGuy...only a Lansky touches my hunting knives. Kitchen and other utility knives I use a diamond impregnated resin bar, or 400 grit wet/dry.

    redhawk

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    I have one. It works good but not great. It's Buick and easy.
    I have a ChefsChoice as well. Mine’s not buick, but it is handy. I can work with steel & strop.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiberoptik View Post
    I have a ChefsChoice as well. Mine’s not buick, but it is handy. I can work with steel & strop.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I can spell just can't type. Fixed thanks.

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    I've done all the field work with a single blade 3" Uncle Henry .
    Dad had ....... I guess that means , I have 2 4" Old Timer 2 blades .
    We always used a course/fine Carborindium oil stone to put the sharp back on them .
    Back at the house we used a selection of Old Hickory and a couple of other old carbon steel knives of unrecalled brand . Boning knives mostly and a Kitchen Kraft SS butcher knife . Last but not least is a 9" Soligen cleaver about 2# worth I used a diamond stone and the course side of the oil stone to grind off years of abuse . When done it breaks femurs and removes deer ribs 3-4 at a time with ease . It will slice tomatoes too . I also have a kitchen knife in carbon steel that was once part of the Canadian iron works contract with Uncle complete with NSN .
    It's all old fashioned but the good carbon knives hold and edge well and get it back with generally just a few passes over the fine side of the oil stone .
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  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy
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    Gotta say the Old Hickory 1095 blades are about the best I've used, whether in the field or in the kitchen. I have a Schrade Little Finger that is perfect for gutting, and the OH blades take care of the rest. For me, the ability to quickly restore an edge outweighs the ability to hold an edge but take forever to resharpen.

  20. #40
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    Ken Onion Work Sharp, The only way to go, I have lots of sharping stuff and I can do a good job with them, but It is so much easier to use the Work Sharp.

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