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Thread: Knives and Sharpening Method for Deer Butchering?

  1. #41
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    2,914
    Lansky works well for the money.

    Once its sharp you shouldn't need more than a good steel to keep it sharp while butchering.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Morganton, NC
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    1,079
    At the house, I use the cardboard/fiberboard wheels mounted on a grinder. One has emory grit glued to it, the other gets some white buffing compound. There are several different brands. They can even be made if you so desire. I can make a butter knife shaving sharp in just a few minutes with the set. Eats a bit of steel over time, but I like inexpensive Moras and the for mentioned boning knives which are cheap enough to replace when needed. In the field, I carry a Lansky diamond paddle with med and fine grits, folds up like a butterfly knife. I rarely need it it as long as I stay away from bone and hair.
    To Thomas Jefferson: It's America! We can have our plows AND our guns!

    http://lindsayfarmonsilvercreek.blogspot.com/

  3. #43
    Boolit Man Gunners Mate's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
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    San Antonio Texas
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    Old Vintage Buck Skinner caper and zipper kept sharp with a Ruby Stone

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
    fiberoptik's Avatar
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    May 2005
    Location
    Was Mid-Michigan, 2 Orlando, 2 Jacksonville, Fl.
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    764
    Gotta say one of the most beautiful sounds to me is the sound of a good carbon steel knife on my steel!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #45
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    33
    I don't butcher many deer, but I clean plenty of fish, and use a knife at work a dozen times a day or more. I believe I've found the cheapest, most expedient system for maintaining a scary-sharp, dry-shave comfortably edge through hard use. The key is a very slight convex edge...not a convex grind. The grind doesn't matter, just a slightly convex secondary bevel. I sharpen with an Arkansas stone, then finish with a Japanese water stone of the finest grit I can find. Day to day stopping is done on plain cardboard. I just keep an empty cardboard box nearby, or a small scrap in my pocket. At the first sign of reduced performance, or tell onset of boredom, strop a few times on the cardboard. After many months of this routine, the cardboard begins to become less effective, so ai touch up on the Japanese water stone unless I have edge damage, in which case I go back to the Arkansas stone and start over.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Nov 2015
    Location
    Central NY
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    616
    Another vote for the Worksharp tool. Fast and easy !

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by fightthenoise View Post
    My wife and I skin and quarter with benchmades. But we butcher 100% start to finish with a Morakniv filet knife. A pair of those is all we use after the meat is off the animal. They are cheap, sharp, comfortable, stainless, and have a good amount of flex to them for removing fat and silver skin. Iíve given probably half a dozen of them as gifts. I think everyone that butchers should have one.

    I use work sharp stuff to sharpen. If Iím away from home I use the guided field sharpener. I remove the plates because it becomes much lighter this way and gives easy access to the broad head wrench, which I use much more often. I donít let my knives get dull enough to need the plates. I use the ceramic rod and leather strop exclusively, even after a whole animal, maybe two if you donít hit much hair and bone. Never have come close to needing anything more coarse.

    At home I have the knife and tool sharpener with the blade grinder attachment. Itís the belt sander style sharpener. I could honestly get by with just the guided field sharpener, but power tools are nice. The same level of sharpness is achievable with both once youíre proficient with the manual methods.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    @fightthenoise

    Thanks for the tip on the Morakniv. Looks like they make a variety of filet knives: can you post a pic provide more info on the one(s) you use? Thanks!

  8. #48
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shenandoah Valley of Va
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by fightthenoise View Post

    I use work sharp stuff to sharpen. If Iím away from home I use the guided field sharpener. I remove the plates because it becomes much lighter this way and gives easy access to the broad head wrench, which I use much more often. I donít let my knives get dull enough to need the plates. I use the ceramic rod and leather strop exclusively, even after a whole animal, maybe two if you donít hit much hair and bone. Never have come close to needing anything more coarse.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I hope these Work Sharp gadgets are as handy as you all say because I just ordered myself one via good old Amazon Prime.
    Now maybe the wife will quit fussing about danged old dull knives.
    Temper is a quality that at a critical moment brings out the best in steel and the worst in people.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    972
    I bought a Work Sharp Ken Onion for Christmas and then promptly bought one for all my kids. Best thing since sliced bread!
    Tony

  10. #50
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    66
    All the outfitters I know have switched to the disposable scalpel blade knives. The knives clients give them are in display cases, not afield.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check