I want to try to make my own roll-crimper.
Can you guys post pics of what the "tulip" of your roll crimpers look like on the inside?
I want to try to make my own roll-crimper.
Can you guys post pics of what the "tulip" of your roll crimpers look like on the inside?
I made my own for .410, I used the diameter of an open shell for the outer edge of the 'roller' and the inner diameter of a factory rolled shell for the diameter of the 'island' in the middle of the roller.
I had to grind my own lathe tool to get the reach required with a radius to suit, and then cross drilled the resulting tool to allow the fitting of turned bars that create the roll when rotated in a drill press.
It's not perfect but it works just fine.
Rich
Subsonic:
Here's a few pics of the Lyman 12 gauge roll crimper.
Hope it helps.
RRR
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Sub - why not just buy the 'tulip', put in on the drill and be done with it ... http://www.usfreeads.com/301229-cls.html
Regards
John
That one for 12ga would be worth buying. Most of them are darn near $40, plus shipping. Which seems high for a hunk of steel that probably costs less than a dollar to make. Plus, i just like makin stuff!
But I need one for 20ga and .410...
Are the little "bumps" in the roller necessary? It looks like it would be easy to make one on the lathe without them.
Dave Berryhill
Berryhill Custom Gunsmithing & Parts
I made a simple roll crimper using an old car universal joint cup, annealed it, drilled it for a 3/8" hex head bolt then drilled and tapped 6 10-24unc holes radialy around it and wound in screws to clamp the 6 flats on the bolt head. That holds it together and provides the "bumps". I tried without the "bumps" but no go. I wound up turning the bolt head a bit to cup it after. I used a small lathe for all work.
Works fine but for $12.95 as John Boy points out that is hard to beat!
Longbow
Here are 3 different gauge RtO's that I made, I just turned a cup slightly tighter than a cartridge case, then drilled the end so a shaft could pass thru that was the same as the inside diameter as a factory RTO case and fixed these two parts together with a cross pin that also performs the rolling of the case. This pin needs to have two scoops filed out so the case ends don't end up square.
HTH
Andy
Sitsinhedges,
Nice job. Same idea as mine except I used 6 machine screws to "trap" the center pin. I turned the end of the thread off each so they were smooth then took an couple of old hulls and crimped them using valve lapping compound to smooth everything up inside the crimper.
You did a much nicer job than I did though so I won't both posting a pic of mine. It works but isn't so pretty.
Longbow
Found this on a search. I like the idea of the center held in by a cross pin that also serves to aid in the actual crimp process. I need to start picking up spent slug shells at the range as they are the one thing that always gets thrown out and nobody picks up. can anybody draw up what a cross section of the tool looks like?
I'll be using a .690 round ball as my slug
Last edited by wonderwolf; 02-21-2009 at 05:08 AM.
My firearms project blog
I have used a 20mm brass plumbing stop end turned round in bench drill (use vise to hold drill and file to remove material). The central island is a chromed brass bolt turned down in the same manner as the stop end. Diameter of the central island should be .600 inch and its thickness .22 inch. Wasnt sure of the diameter bar to use for rollers so went with 3mm. Only half the diameter of the roller prodrudes from the inside base. This makes drilling difficult. Use a small drill bit to begin, say 1.5mm then your final drill say 3mm this will stop the drill from wandering. All held together with a nut. If You do not have access to a lathe use brass it is easy to work with especially when you come to the drilling.
You can make a roll crimp for any gauge. The gap between the island and the inside diameter of the crimp is always .100 inch regardless of gauge.
E.G. 12 gauge shell = .800 inch - **.200inch** = .600 inch. .600 inch will be the island diameter. the thickness of the island is .22 inch a thicker island will give the crimp more height.
**As there is a .100inch gap on either side of the island you will need to subtract .200 inch from the shell diameter to give a .100 inch gap either side of the island.** My maths is poor and it took me a while to work that one out
ATB.
David.
The final picture doenst show the grooves filed into the rollers.
Last edited by woody12; 02-24-2009 at 06:12 PM.
I bought one from BPI [12g]. It works pretty well.
I bought the BPI 12 ga roll crimper with only one pin and it does the job in my Harbor freight 8" $50 drill press. I will say the the more pins inside the cup the faster/better the crimp will be. My pops found me a nice antiquie roll crimper which has 4 pins and it take less time per shell than the drill press mounted one. Either way they both work and will get the job done. I vote for making your own if you are able to.
It's not a barrel shroud it is a moderator fitted to a 20 bore o/u.
Thought that what it might be. Suppressed shotguns are rare on this side of the pond.
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BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |