I love the pull gauge, but where is the pretty wood????
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Beautiful! Wouldn't kick that one out of bed for eating crackers!
Read your post on Henry's reply - sure hope you don't "drop" that rifle as it may go off! Looks like an easy fix for a problem that is over-complicated and lawyerized.
So now for the big question . . . how does she shoot?
WoW. You did good!
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my outdoor season is over, got about a half foot of ice and snow today, that's it 'til the coming spring for the most part. will take her to the indoor range dance come monday and see what she'll do at 25yards during the barrel break-in with my handloads and hi-tek bullets ... better'n not shooting at all.
Nice looking rifle. When I opened my box yesterday I saw the rifle had a little of that figure in one corner and I said to my FFL guy that it would have been real nice if that figure went all the way thru. Your stock is what I envisioned at that moment. Congrats!!
I've been holding off on buying a Henry single shot rifle because of the excessive trigger pull.
Who supplied the springs? Also, what is the procedure for replacing them?
Thanks, Tom
EVERYTHING you need to know about the Henry H015 single shot trigger/hammer .............
MAJOR kudos to CB member megasupermagnum for his finding/testing the proper Henry H015 single shot gun spring.
The Henry H015 single shot rifle is a high quality made-in-USA rifle that has great components and workmanship, not to mention real American walnut fore and butt stocks, with great figuring. So what's not to like? The Achilles Heel of this gun is its Horrible heavy trigger (and hammer) pull. We're talking a trigger pull of well over 6#, and 8# or more is not uncommon. Since the trigger spring also sets the hammer spring pull, pulling back the hammer to full c0ck is a chore as well. Internally, the trigger and hammer are powered by a set of nestled springs, a large main spring with a smaller spring inside it, both kept inside a tube. It is very easy to get to these springs, remove both, and replace with a better, lighter compression spring. It's that easy, and the results are like night and day.
BEFORE AND AFTER THE SPRING SWAP ....
https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/2055799210-post1.html
HOW TO SWAP OUT THE SPRINGS ...
https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/2055795564-post1.html
WHERE TO GET THE PROPER SPRING ....
Grainger spring # 54MY45 - only sold in sets of 10 fpr $17.30 plus shipping. That pack of ten cost me just over $30 with shipping included. So now y'all where to get the Henry H015 fix spring that will take that 7-8 pound trigger/hammer and make it just over a 3 pound pull - AND lighten the hammer pull at the same time.
https://www.grainger.com/product/SPE...chQuery=54MY45
i built a ladder load with w231 under that BBI hi-tek 160 grain bullet and found that, at least with this gun, an over max load of 5 grains yielded zero pressure signs and no leading. too dang cold for the outdoor ranges, fired off in a police indoor range out to 25 yards. i have both a2400 and imr4227 on order to really push the speed and see how the hi-tek does - BBI sez 1400fps should be no problem, i'll see. i longbow hunt only, so the goal with this gun is to see how far out it will allow for consistent accuracy, perhaps out to the 400 yard 16" gong. also considering black powder loads, paper patched alloy bullets, custom accurate molds bullets, and even reaming out to .357MAX. ain't all this stuff fun?
Nice wood, and I am glad to see a quality alternative to the H&R rifles is out there (well, besides the Contender/Encore), but why can't we get past the HAMMER? Seriously. Why didn't they use and internal hammer and a sliding tang safety, so it would have an advantage over a T/C or H&R. Faster and no scope-thumb clearance issues. Are the folks over at Henry clueless? Another example: they never put a loading gate on their lever action centerfires? I am consistently impressed with the quality, but I just can't abide by their design choices.
And, to those of us who prefer a tube feed for our lever action rifles. My thumb doesn't hurt nearly as bad after a range session with a tube feed.
Hi RFD, Very nice write-up, and great pictures, too! What brand is your trigger pull gauge?
Forget the thumb, I have to use my pinky to get 30-30 cases all the way in a model 94. Screw the loading gate. I'm sure it can be modified to be faster for competition, ill take the Henry tube. Ill take an external hammer too. Safetys are always in the wrong spot, hammers always cocked. I've never met an external hammer I didn't like.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |