search sharpshooters .22 reloaders they have all the fixings to make caps even a video of it being done. I am going to get one just so I don't have to be hostage to the commercial sellers. I have plenty of caps now but the day will come when I will need more.
Last edited by bob208; 12-08-2018 at 10:32 PM.
I have used the prime all from 22reloader. It does work very well. As powerfull as anything you can buy. I had trouble with the prime being durable in the cups. It could crumble and fall out. This is easily fixed by spraying them with a few coats of hairspray. Works great,is cheap and easy. I also use two layers of the pop cans for the cups.
n.h.schmidt
I use brass .005 sheets from hobby lobby. Comes in a roll...much more durable than the aluminum. I tried the prime-all mix....i hated that stuff. It left a thick sticky orange yellow corrosive film...like immediately. I even made it by removing the dextrin from the recipe, and instead of using alcohol i got a small cheap non-aerosol travel hair spray for less than 2 bux...the kind with the pump mister. Instead of spraying the caps with hair spray and using dextrin..i screw off the mister cap and apply the hairspray using a dropper and put one drop in each percussion cap. It takes the place of using alcohol to wet the mix and also works as a binder instead of using the dextrin that comes with the prime-all mix. I dont use prime-all mix anymore ,My current method is corrosive but not as much and doesnt leave a visual film. Im going to be making a post with pics soon explaining my method if any are interested
There is also that trick of Fly's, using tubing and small pistol primers: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-to-save-money
Ah yes flys trick using tubing and primers. Has anyone else on these forums noticed that once a topic comes up...fly has already done it and mastered it? Lol. Good guy..helped me a lot with my home made black powder and sold me a high quality puck die.
The red/orange coating from the prime/all and FA 42 formula isn't hard to remove. Normal cleaning and it's gone. No more corrosive that any other home priming I have tried. If you survived the Italian brass corrosive percussion caps that everyone sold in the 70s,you can deal with anything .In using the brass from Hobby lobby what does it cost per cup you make? I use two layers of aluminum can coming out to .008 thick. Stout enough for me and dirt cheap. I use a reloading press mounted die to make my cups. I once used some old bronze weather stripping to make cups. Very stout and looked cool but didn't work any better. Back then I was still punching out toy pistol caps with only marginal results.
I have tried the small pistol primer and tubing idea on a side lock muzzleloader. It just didn't work good enough. Better suited on a revolver maybe.
n.h.schmidt
The brass sheet is very strong. I prefer it. I get it for about 5 bucks cuz i use the 40% off coupon at hobby lobby. Its a roll about 10 feet long...a foot wide. Make a whole lot of caps. I even get the .005 roll of aluminum from them and its stronger than the same size aluminum that i get from amazon...not sure why that is vonsidering its all the same size. Its not that the yellowish residue is hard to clean, i just dont like how messy it is and i live in south texas where its extremely humid and makes for a stickier residue. I can actually feel the residue making my hammer stick etc...doesnt happen with my other corrosive primer recipes/methods. I think if u try the sheet brass i mentioned u will definately like it....its atrong and sure beats fumbling with cutting up cans etc. I also like all my homemade caps to have a uniform look which i cant get from cans unless i flip the aluminum over to the unprinted side which i dont like doing bcuz the thick printing usually rubs off onto the nipple and just makes them grittier than necessary.
I looked and can not find the brass roll. What cat no is it? We must be cooler and dryer here in eastern Iowa. Not much of a sticky problem here most of the time. What is your current cap formula based on? The reason the tubing and small pistol primer failed is the hammer face is cupped. The primer with tubing around it is too large and hits somewhere on the hammer cup. I would rather make the home made cups anyway.
n.h.schmidt
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Met...hXL&ref=plSrch this is the brass sheet roll i get but i get it at hobby lobby and use the 40% discount online. Its 36 gauge/ .005 thick. Works great and the caps are reusable and its not too hard on the cap maker. The same brand makea aluminum in the same guage only in longer sheet rolls...5-10 feet...and it makes great caps too bcuz its a bit stiffer than other brands of the same dimentions. The aluminum rolla are way cheaper too..and with the online 40% coupon i end up paying like 3 bux for the aluminum. The brand is k&s
Ill go over my cap method when i can take pics. It will be easier to explain with pics or a vid as im horrible at explaining things..i always feel as if i cant get my point across without showing what im doing lol
Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt
Perhaps if a very small, strong mini-magnet were placed inside the hammer cup, it would make contact with the small pistol primer before the cup "lips" hit the tubing.
They're made in several different mini-sizes and can be ground down if needed to fit inside the cup.
Or shave down the tube's outside diameter in a way to eliminate the interference.
What make of rifle did you try the tube & pistol primers with?
I'd like to hear more feedback from people who have tried this tube & pistol primer method with their rifle and whether it worked for them or not
since many rifles have different sizes of hammer cups and not all are well centered with the nipple.
Last edited by arcticap; 12-14-2018 at 12:14 PM.
I'm sure better results can be had with more attention to details. The only rifle used was a CVA Hawken style .Common as dirt. The hammer clears regular and home made cap cups. It isn't well centered though. As to a magnet being used in the hammer nose. It can't be a neo ,it will crumble the first shot. A small steel based magnet maybe would work. Or glue a proper sized steel insert into the nose. There is risk of the primer flying off in any direction though.
Kid Reuseable now that's interesting. Twice? more? I look forward to your video.
n.h.schmidt
I have used my caps multiple times...just refill them. Actually when they are new i use them on the stock pietta nipples bcuz they fit a little too tight on slixshot nipples. They fit stock nipples perfrctly tho. I actually use the stainless steel nipples from RMC ox yoke..theyre like 15 bucks a set and are of good quality and are easier to clean. They run small like stock pietta nippples but are stainless so they dont rust with corrosive homemade primers. Once i use the brass caps i refill the caps again yet theyve loosened up a bit and will also fit the larger slixshot nipples too. But the brass caps are able to be used quite a few times...sometimes i just have to run them through the cap maker again just to bend them back into a cup but thats as much reworking theyve needed. Im working on the pics and vid.
I should also mention that they are only reusable if u fill in the hammer face with something like jb weld cuz if not then the unfilled hammers notch with deform the cap. I also tune my guns by shaving down the hammer face a bit so that it barely kisses the nipple...like it barely touches it and puts pressure on it but its puts plent of pressure when the nipple is capped. Also helps to keep ur nipples in good shape..i dont like the hammer hitting down on the nipple with unnecessary excessive force that can deform or damage the nipple
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| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
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| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
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