You have the books if you read those and ask for clarification of parts you don't understand you will have what you require as far as book learning you need. I think I saw the Lee manual mentioned. It is also good. I read an older one that was available for download as a PDF but don't have the link anymore.
I ladle cast rather than use a bottom pour. I second the don't buy the little lead melter, get the 20# pot. If the kit has the small melter skip it.
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...elter-110-volt
The ladle I like is the one mentioned before the Lyman little dipper.
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Casting...ct_top?ie=UTF8
You will probably want some paint stir sticks and a couple of thrift store / garage sale table spoons. For skimming dross off the top. You might bend the handle a bit or re-shape the spoon, some I have seen have thin slots cut in the tip to let lead drain through while the dross stays in the spoon like a strainer.
Thermometer is most useful can't repeat the perfect casting temperature for a given mold if you don't know what it is.
https://www.amazon.com/Tel-Tru-LT225...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Lyman also has one I think it is a bit more.
A used steel cupcake tin (preferably without non-stick coating) makes a handy "mold" to dump your molten lead into if you want to change alloy in your casting pot. From casting 30 caliber rifle to revolver bullets you would probably tend to use different alloys so you need to dump your pot before adding the different alloy.
2 cavity molds are great place to start, don't forget many of the older classic molds came in single cavity. Main thing with 6 cavity is the weight. They can be a bit heavy. I like NOE 4 cavity molds since they are aluminum and only 4 cavities they are twice as productive and the weight is still easy to manage. There are at least a couple of other excellent mold makers associated with the site. Mihec and Accurate. I may not of spelled that first one right. Look in group buy area lot of bullet molds come from these three manufacturers who will do a custom mold at a discount once enough commit to purchase.
Lee makes inexpensive molds with 2 cavity for around $25 in most calibers. Those inexpensive molds are a good place to start. For 30 rifle you have a couple or three weights and profiles to try. I would say 75% of my molds are Lee 2 cavity. They are not "premium" molds but they get the job of filling an ammo can with cast bullets done and sit there waiting to make more. The other molds I paid more because I needed or wanted something specific such as oversized for .303 or heavy .223 or HBWC or hollow point or shotgun slug. Most of those non Lee are 4 cavity or at least 3 cavity just to up productivity. Or specialty and only single cavity. I have a Lyman WC mold I love that is single cavity.
There are good deals to be had buying lead in the S & S (swapping and selling) forum. There is also Rotometals who have an advertising link at the top of the page, they are a site sponsor. A whole lot of 30 caliber bullets have been cast from WW (wheel weight) lead and a little solder for the tin to help the lead flow into the mold and get good fill out. You can buy WW lead for ~ $1 a pound and some solder or pewter (high tin alloy) for good prices in the S & S forum. Won't be foundry pure like Rotometals or other foundries but price is better. You can post a WTB (wanted to buy) thread there for lead or other items.
I would buy lead and alloy or basic alloy ingredients rather than trying to start finding your own lead and making your own ingots. That process adds a whole layer of complexity and just gets in the way of making bullets. Come back to scrounging for lead and making ingots later. If nothing else you will have a better idea of what you need for lead. Even buying lead you will save some money per bullet. Just don't count on saving money overall. Because you either shoot more or you spend more on equipment to streamline your operation or extend into scrounging lead and making own ingots or striving to find the perfect combination that shoots 1 MOA from the next zip code on a windy day. AKA - perfect load syndrome. And if you are smart you will sort of stockpile a "pantry" of lead, brass, primers and powder to meet your needs in case of another shortage or congress getting its knickers in a twist to "do something" that raises prices or starts a run on supplies. This hobby is all good fun but not free fun if you catch my meaning. Only way I would save money is if I shot it all off so the savings per round paid for the supplies and equipment, and I would replace the components which costs money so....
Best of luck