I'm busy cleaning up a 64 year old J.C. Higgins Model 31 22 automatic. The trigger group contained all kinds of crud. After disassembly, the ultrasonic cleaner really cleaned up all the parts. Now I am ready to reassemble it. Has anyone used silicone spray for lubricant in this area instead of oil?
Tried the silicone spray in a rock river service rifle over a decade ago, was running extremely hot loads. Had mixed results with it so I decided to try this product.
[IMG][/IMG]
As you can see it's actually designed for bike chains, but it did extremely well in the ar's. So I tried it in several semi-auto 22lr's (pistols & rifles) and never looked back. Like it enough that I use it on the internal parts of a bolt actioned rifle's bolt & their trigger groups also. I live in a cold weather climate and greases/heavy oils are not a good thing.
It can be found for +/- $10 a bottle ($9 at wal-mart) & it goes a long way. I also use it on the pellets for my pellet rifles/pistols. It does nothing for the top of the line target pellets. But there's huge improvements in accuracy/consistency in the cheap target pellets.
[IMG][/IMG]
I also like to use it on my hunting pellets. Not only does it aid in accuracy, it coats the bore of my hunting pellet rifles the same way the lube on a 22lr bullet does. This protects the bore from moisture/condensation.
Anyway, been using the dry wax lube pictured above since 2005/2006? on anschutz's to ar's to pellets with excellent results.
Forrest r
Thanks for sharing your experience. I will pick up some wax lube today.
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Ballistol
Many options will work
Nice to have choices
Yes...sad to report it doesn't hang around very long ...OK at first but it seems to dissipate .
A little better is one of the dry spray lubes....these have micro Teflon particles suspended in an alcohol base that evaporates leaving a thin Teflon Film.
Also good for these areas (my favorite) spray RemOil . Again micro Teflon particles suspended in a mineral oil base , it won't gum or harden , in time the mineral oil base will dissipate but leave a oil micro Teflon film on the metal .
I have tried silicone spray...even food grade for meat slicers on my guns and never found it a great lubricant .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
Never ever ever NEVER use silicone one any firearm with a wood stock that there is the tiniest chance it will ever be refinished! Wood that has been contaminated with silicone is impossible to refinish because it will repel all dies, stains, and finishes.
I personally use bicycle dry chain lube as well. The crud doesn't sick to it and cause sludge, but blows out of the action.
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-K...h+line+krytechOriginally Posted by fiberoptik
I use Ballistol for that type of job. I used to use bike lube like the above for my chains, sprockets etc. especially on my mountain bike where the parts were subjected to dirt and grime on a frequent basis. Works great but I never considered it for inside parts. I just thought the need was not there and was worried about disassembly if I wanted to get it out.
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Ballistol is the only CLP, the original, that will not gum-up. Only wet one I use on locks,
I spray out the .22s and let them sit and wipe them down and patch them out.
30 years, no problems.
I appreciate the help all of you have given me. I found the Finish Line Wax Lubricant at a Bike Rack store. The price was $7.99 for a 4 oz bottle. They also have it in 2 oz and 8 oz.
I hate to be a contrarian, but I've used silicon for years on my guns with great results. I don't use it for high friction lubrication, like for an AR, but I use it for protection. I wipe down the outside of my guns & after the barrel is squeaky clean I coat the barrel using a silicon patch. Never had any barrel rust & my rifles don't have a POI change from the first few shots out of an oily barrel.
First I've heard that silicon can effect a wood stock finishes; thanks for that heads-up.
FWIW
Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.
O yes, it will protect because it fills down on a molecular level. Do a little research on the nightmares it causes in the auto body/ paint world. Once it's in the wood it can never be removed!
Once I tried Ed'd red oil I don't even think of using anything else. I made a batch that will last me a very long time.
Silicone is nasty if you ever try to paint something that has been contaminated by it.
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823
If you’re going to be in really cold weather, there’s nothing like graphite powder. It may not last as long as other lubricants and you may want to use something different in the summer. All types of lubes gum up, even if just slightly and things move slower. Even ATF. Graphite won’t at over forty below.
I have had a lot of luck with graphite.
I use Dupont wax chain lube, similar to Finish Line, a little cheaper too...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Te...11-oz/16672659
Lowes has it too,
I been using the Dupont wax teflon chain lube on bike for yrs. It's ok except the wax builds up over time. Not something I'd personally use on a firearm because of that. I've used spray teflon on firearm actions with ok results...when dry it looks like white powder but doesn't inhibit action movement.
I think the silicone harm on wood stocks is somewhat over hyped. I have at least 3 stocks that were either kept in a silicone sock or wiped down with a silicone cloth for 10-15 yrs. I refinished these with tru-oil and Formbys tongue oil. No problems 20+ yrs later and also used Formbys finish remover and bronze wool...no sanding. It seems silicone doesn't stay deep enough when used this way to stay embedded in the wood. I suppose continual saturation of an unfinished stock would be problematic but getting in a nick here or there it leaches out with regular cleaning isn't. Just my 2cts.
Oh, and I do use silicone tooI use Dupont wax chain lube, similar to Finish Line, a little cheaper too...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Te...11-oz/16672659
Lowes has it too,
this stuff:
From Walmart
This got me thinking, anyone ever use this kind of stuff for case lube or boolit lube? I am already tempted to try it for case lube.
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