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Thread: Rolling block breech blocks

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Rolling block breech blocks

    Do a Remington model 1 and 1 1/2 rifles use the same breech block ? I just got a 1 1/2 short range target in .32 rimfire with a rotten bore but nice wood and action. Because of the bore condition and caliber I'm thinking about having it rebored to a larger centerfire caliber and was going to swap out the block for a centerfire one.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Hawkeye View Post
    Do a Remington model 1 and 1 1/2 rifles use the same breech block ? I just got a 1 1/2 short range target in .32 rimfire with a rotten bore but nice wood and action. Because of the bore condition and caliber I'm thinking about having it rebored to a larger centerfire caliber and was going to swap out the block for a centerfire one.
    Yes, depending on the #1 donor being the correct style breech block. The dimensional difference between a #1 and #1 1/2 are only width of the receiver.
    The issue is with so many different styles of breech block between military and civilian versions. Need to get one from the same era, and even better from a #1 Sporting Rifle, and not a military. The Sporter will have the nice little checkered spur for opening the breech block, while the military have those big ugly spurs that stick straight up, or out at 90 degrees.
    But those that stick straight up can be reshaped to look much like a Sporter spur, and then checkered. This is one I reworked to look like a Sporter on my build:



    I reworked both the breech block spur, and the hammer spur

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks, that's good to know cause the other option is to find a trustworthy smith to convert the original block to center fire and I would think that's an expensive option.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Hawkeye View Post

    Thanks, that's good to know cause the other option is to find a trustworthy smith to convert the original block to center fire and I would think that's an expensive option.

    Actually, converting a RF rolling block breechblock to CF is E-Z-Peazy, and can be done @ home in about 30mins. (I've done several)

    You will need an electric drill and buy a new 1/16" drill bit, which will be sacrificial.



    * A .32 will accept a black Sharpie, dropped downbore against the closed breechblock, to mark the center of the bore on it.

    * The BB is then removed from the receiver; and the RF firing pin from the breechblock.

    * Drill a 1/16" hole (with a sacrificial drill bit) straight through the face of the breechblock from the front, into the FP cavity.

    * Grind the RF firing pin tip off the firing pin body, leaving a flat face; then re-install the altered FP back into the BB.

    * Using the same sacrificial 1/16" drill bit, slide it into the central hole just drilled through the BB face until the tip of the drill bit touched the now flat face of the FP.

    * Turn on the drill and make a shallow hole (just enough to eyeball) in the altered FB & stop right there.

    * Remove the FP from the BB, and drill the dimple made in the flat face of the FP about 1/4" deep to make a blind hole.

    * Using a grinder (the drill bit will be hardened), cut the spiral flutes off the shank of the 1/16" drill bit & either epoxy or solder the shank into the central hole in the FP.

    * Re-install the FP into the BB and check the FP protrusion from the face of the BB with the FP held forward - grind the new FP tip to the correct protrusion length & polish the tip to a rounded profile.

    Done.



    You will now have a CF breechblock, plus the original RF firing pin hole (no biggie).

    .
    Last edited by pietro; 11-11-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    You can also buy drill rod to do the conversion, and it's cheaper to buy a length of it than a good drill bit usually costs. I buy it in 24" lengths from a seller on Ebay.
    I also plug the extra hole when converting to CF. I use a piece of rod slightly larger than the hole and put a short piece in my drill press to turn. Use a file or sandpaper to work it down until it's a tight fit. Then put permanent Loctite on the rod and tap it into the hole. Cut off the excess and use a file to face it flush.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Unfortunately I don't have the time to do it myself but Lee Shaver does and for a reasonable price. Now I just have to decide weather I want it rebored to .38-40 or .44-40 so I can send the barreled action out to JES reboring. I'm leaning towards .44-40 cause I already have all the reloading & casting stuff.

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