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Thread: Slug Hollow Base Fillers

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Many years ago I tried using cornmeal as is in the cavities of Lyman Foster slugs. I turned slugs upside down, filled the cavities with cornmeal then pressed masking tape over and trimmed around the outside edges. That held the cornmeal in and recovered slugs had compacted cornmeal in the cavities but it didn't help accuracy any... or not significantly anyway.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master


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    Two sample runs ready to go test once the cold wind lets up a bit; the difference in them being the hollow base filler. One set is hot glue filled and the other, Plastic Wood. The hulls were loaded with the Load-All II, I used the press set the 12S3 wad, nitro card, and slug. The X12X gas seal in the priming chamber is still making an awesome and effective stop for folding the star crimp.

    Michael

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    RD, I see what you're accomplishing and they look nice. Just in case you don't know there is a single screw on the back of the aluminum post that attaches the wad guide and 2 holes. Screw in the bottom hole is for 2 3/4" and top hole is 3". This reduces travel to accomodate the longer hull. For the hot glue fill if you overfill them first, let them set till firm, then use a hot small blade to trim the overfill you get a good flush consistent base.
    "My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
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  4. #24
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    Yes as far as loading I used my Pacific DL266.

    I feel it is necessary to resize the base of any shotgun hull as they will stick in a chamber if you don't.

    Used the 3rd station where the powder/shot are dropped but charged the cases with measured charges. Seated the wad and then pressed the slug in until I got 50 lb of wad pressure which resulted in perfect fold crimps.

    I used the blue Clay Buster Slug Wads for my loads as after doing a muzzle press test the Regular Clay Buster WAA12 clone was too big and wouldn't even go in the cylinder bore. The Blue Wads do, but are loose so maybe a wrap of tape or paper will be needed.

    Surprisingly my .662 Pumpkin Balls with a 1/4" felt wad in the base of the WAA12 clone fit the muzzle of my house gun (Cylinder Bore .729-.730) perfectly. Maybe that's why they shot so well.

    I've got to make a load block today as loading one at a time is slow.

    For those that don't already know, Pacific DL266 are arguably the best single stage loaders ever made. There's plenty of them out there and I got mine for $50 off www.trapshooters.com . It works really well for short batch loading, or if you need to you can do 200 rounds an hour.

    Keep in mind that you can reload 12 ga hulls with a nail and a piece of dowel, but you will make better ammo if you use some kind of single stage loader. Any old Pacific, MEC, C&H, Texan, Lee or a bunch of others that have come and gone, will do the job better than the nail and dowel. I have an early Lee Classic Loader that was made before Lee was Lee, and it does just fine. Plenty of those on Ebay, and plenty of the others as well.

    Do yourself a favor if you want to load shot shells, get a shot shell press. I don't feel that a $25-50 investment is too much to support a hobby that you are this far into. Making good ammo is the whole reason people reload. You can't make good ammo without proper tools.

    Randy
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    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    I'm a retired finish carpenter and have for years used a product called "Rage" it's a bondo type wood filler that is an epoxy mix. It bonds very tight to metal or wood and sands smooth very easily. My new Noe mould will be here tomorrow and one of my first comparison tests will be the Hot glue, bondo , solid base comparison test. Gp

  6. #26
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Hogtamer View Post
    RD, I see what you're accomplishing and they look nice. Just in case you don't know there is a single screw on the back of the aluminum post that attaches the wad guide and 2 holes. Screw in the bottom hole is for 2 3/4" and top hole is 3". This reduces travel to accomodate the longer hull. For the hot glue fill if you overfill them first, let them set till firm, then use a hot small blade to trim the overfill you get a good flush consistent base.
    Thanks, I didn't think about the hot blade cutting the cooled glue. Other than the five I have loaded, I went back through my slugs and popped all the glue plugs out. None of them stuck.

    My Load-ALL II is old enough, that I had to drill my own 3" hole in the square, upright tube. Because of it's age, it came with the primer feeder assembly which I consider a win!
    Michael

  7. #27
    Boolit Master


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    Randy, how does your Dillon measure the column wad pressure applied? I have a 12 Gauge 3" Lee Loader, the complete kit, and the instructions state that if you want to load columns to a given pressure, to do the work on a bathroom scale, and seat thembetween 16 and 18 pounds. I think the Load All does a better job of all the reloading than does the kit. The Load-All Junior was an attempt to market a loader at the price point of the kit so Lee could move away from the Loaders.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranch Dog View Post
    My Load-ALL II is old enough, that I had to drill my own 3" hole in the square, upright tube. Because of it's age, it came with the primer feeder assembly which I consider a win!
    My LA II (1996) is not old enough to have the metal base like Randy's. I think his press is the "Improved Load All". There was an update kit (#90073) that changed out the base to that of the II.

    While on the Load-All II, I remove the hopper from the square tube to dump the powder. I always wondered why Lee didn't include this in the instructions nor their online FAQs. I went a step further and drilled a 7/16" hole in one corner of the Bushing Storage Box for use of that box/hopper cover as a method of dumping the powder. I have since seen where some press owers drill a small hole in the cover, but I'm glad I kept my top solid. I don't use the Bushing Storage Box except when emptying the hopper.





    Here is a lousy, redneck video I made of removing and emptying the hopper.



    After removing the hopper and before reinstalling it on the square tube, I take the opportunity to clean and lube the tube and pivot points on the handle and links. I use a very light amount of petroleum jelly.

    I don't think I'm going to get a chance to shoot the NOEs today, the rain just keeps increasing.
    Michael

  8. #28
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    Yes, setting the wad pressure was done on a bathroom scale. I never did do that. The main reason I think they stopped making the hand tools is because they are very hard to get a consistent crimp with. I finally got a MEC Wad guide and use that to insert the wads and a Crimp starter from I think,,, Lee. I can get good crimps as long as I get the same amount of powder and shot in the hulls which kind of defines the charge height which directly affects the crimp closing.

    That Blue Press is a Pacific DL266 and yes it has a Wad pressure scale on the front of the machine . On the rounds I loaded last night I had to insert the wad then insert the slug using the press and then squish it down until I got to 50 lbs. I went to sleep on one of them and squashed the wad and slug way down and had to take that one apart.

    I have a Dillon SL900 which I got for $250 but haven't used it. It is one of the best designed presses out there. This one is nearly brand new, and if I start shooting trap again I will fire it up.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  9. #29
    Boolit Master


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    My mold business allowed me the contact with Lee where I was able to ask a lot of questions about their products. The shotgun Loaders where incomplete for the task and the Deluxe kits where not profitable and so began the move to the Load-All (Junior, Improved, and II). It seems to me that the Loaders are just not made for new hulls and I understand that limitation within the price range. Starting a star crimp with the palm operated tool is easy as it "bottoms," and further pressure will crush the hull. The die and the closing tool just cannot form the crimp on a new hull.

    I sure hope I can shoot the NOEs today, it rained all day yesterday and most of the night.
    Michael

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    I've played with the hammerhead slugs in both 12 and 20 ga quite extensively. I have both molds. They are one of the most accurate slugs I reload. The 12 ga shoots lights out with every powder I've tried. Shot sub MOA with 800x out of my USH. At the time, SlugsRus didn't have any data with Longshot, so I worked up some loads, tested them, and then submitted it to SlugsRus. They pressure tested it and it is now a part of their published load data.

    The 20 ga takes a little more patience to find a load. This past weekend, i ran a few batches through my 220 with the Tarhunt barrel using Herco and Longshot. Both shot great, but showed signs of pressure in my 220 and USH. Neither gun would extract/eject the spent hulls.

    As far as slug release from wads in slug in cup loads, have you tried dusting your wads with mica powder? I started doing that to help with the release.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check