Had four FTF out of 120 in 45 colt. WLP lot FLL292G. If anyone had similar issues, please check the lot. Please post here as I am trying to figure it out. Primers or gun....
Had four FTF out of 120 in 45 colt. WLP lot FLL292G. If anyone had similar issues, please check the lot. Please post here as I am trying to figure it out. Primers or gun....
I had a bunch of FTFs when first trying to fire form 7mm TCU brass; Weak hammer spring, new stronger spring fixed that. (Was using small rifle CCI primers IIRC, they're a bit thicker primer cups than some.) Not remembering any other FTFs, primers are usually darn good!
W-W LP primers have been giving me fits too.
only bad primers I had was a case of wolf large pistol primers I bought once. Had a couple misfires and got to looking at the primers and found that a couple out of each pack didn't even have anvils.
I rec'd the Fed-EX "call tag", now all I gotta do is box 'em up and send them back. This could take awhile, but I will surely post the results once known.
It's all chicken, even the beak!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
I used a primer pocket uniformer once and made the primer pockets too deep. There are light primer strikes ftf on those pieces. Whoops.
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"Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
~Theodore Roosevelt~
The only FTFs I’ve had due to primers not igniting we’re in a Colt Trooper Mik III in which I had installed Bullseye springs. That’s in 40 years of reloading. The gun worked well with Federal primers but I had loaded some ammo with CCI primers which didn’t work with the light springs. I tried to shoot those rounds with another revolver but the dented primers wouldn’t fire. I don’t think that trying to fire ammo in a second gun is a definitive test once the primers are desensitized with a strike.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
Do you wet tumble your brass? Is it possible you deprime after cleaning? Water can get trapped in there getting the new primers wet and causing failures. Additionally, could you have handled the primers with something on your hands and accidentally contaminating a few of them?
had a similar problem with my savage 116 308 stripped bolt <not spring off firing pin>cleaned the crud out of the bolt body .seems to have fixed it.
I have a batch of Small rifle primers I bought cheap.
They were bought when there was a primer shortage.
I thought I had loaded too hot somehow and the pockets were huge and the primers fell out.
After a while I realised that some were physically smaller.
I haven’t found any more rejects after a few packets.
They go bang and I have a couple of thousand left.
I get the odd flyer...maybe it’s the primers.(my excuse)
I haven’t bothered to do anything as I got them for a song after some-one got them cheap.
I haven’t any issues with anvils etc.
I had a few big named primers with no anvils or anvils upside down or no compound but the part of the % would be very small overall.
When I contacted the mfr, they assigned an RMA number to my situation and then sent me an e-mail with a tracking number to give to FedEx and all the shipping labels and hazardous "diamonds" to put on the outside of the box. Fed Ex is supposed to pick this pkg up at my house sometime today between 8AM and 6 PM. Obviously due to the nature of the product, it is shipping FedEx Ground. I'll report later how the transaction went if and when the driver agrees to take the package. All costs associated with this shipment are being born by the mfr.
It's all chicken, even the beak!
Well, the FedEx guy showed up and scanned the package and off he went. We shall wait and see what kind of reply I get. Stay tuned!
It's all chicken, even the beak!
Shuz--- lt seems you did well. l bought a sleeve of Fed Match LP primers awhile back. 0r so l thought... Box was labeled ''Large Pistol Match'', but the product number was ''GM210M''. So looked at another box of ''Large Pistol Match''. lts number was correct with GM150M. Called Federal 3 times a week for THREE weeks.. Always got the runaround or put on hold.. Did the best thing for ME... l gave those mislabeled primers away... All 5000 of them... Along with a few more thousand Federals l had laying around... Done with Federals
i have been having a fit with primers lately. i originally thought it was a new gun even sent it back to manufacture. it did have a couple other small things i wanted fixed to so it was not a total loss. these are very old cci old tula and new ww and cci. with all the different ones i really did think it was the gun. but no it is the primers not really sure what is going on. i didn't think primers went bad but some are new. even tore down the ftf and put the primers in to a case for a gun that really smacked them and no go they still didn't go off in a gun that almost punches a hole in them. has the quality control gone to heck or maybe i am contaminating them some how though not sure how. the only thing i am doing different than i have for years is to use new finish in my tumbler but a lot of people use it.
At $0.03 each, or thereabout, you can load empty cases with primers, put 'em in the rifle and pull the trigger for 100 "tests" per pack of 100 primers. Cases with primer pockets too deep and other FTF's may be found.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Has anyone tried to "contaminate" primers recently? Years ago, ol Bruce B, did a test where he tried to contaminate them with oil and solvents and they still went bang after being dried out. I personally had 1000 CCI 250 mag primers that got flooded with water about 25 years ago. I dried them out, and even tho I marked the packages "wet primers", I don't ever recall one not firing when they were loaded.I was always a little leary of those primers and never did use any for hunting ammo.
It's all chicken, even the beak!
I remember Bruce B's testing. It was eye opening to recognize that primers are inherently TOLERANT to nearly ALL of the "contaminants" he used in trying to make them inert. Oil, WD40, water, alcohol, I think was a relative sample of Bruce B's effort. After drying, many still went "BANG". Go Figure. Resurrect that thread. Make it a sticky.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I used to keep a packet in my ammo can range box.
I think the copper solvent was playing up with them.
(you could smell the stuff)
Ammonia
O.k.they went bang but seemed funny and groups were every where.
Since I got rid of it I have had no issues.
I store mine away from such stuff these days.
Problems I've had with primers over the years:
1. I used CCI primers for many years in handguns with no problems. Then misfires started. I talked to Behlert gunsmiths and found out CCI had gone to heavier gauge primer cups. Went to another brand primer to resolve problem.
2. Priming compounds are solid after drying but can be cracked if the primer is "crunched" during the primer seating process. So after experiencing an occasional "primer crunching", when seating a primer in a progressive press, I changed my seating procedure.
3. When I experience a slight "crunching" when seating a primer, I assume that I have cracked the priming compound which can affect proper primer ignition. I stop immediately, deprime that case, true-up the primer pocket in the case, reprime that case and continue my reloading process. Eventually all of my "slightly out-of-round" case primer pockets are corrected to being round.
Best regards,
CJR
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |