Can anyone tell me who out there would re-barrel a Ruger No. 3, or make me a barrel that I can install myself, with the extractor cut in the right place?
Shilen does not offer that service.
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Can anyone tell me who out there would re-barrel a Ruger No. 3, or make me a barrel that I can install myself, with the extractor cut in the right place?
Shilen does not offer that service.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I would prefer to have a professional install a #1 barrel so the rib can be installed correctly.
http://pac-nor.com/prefit/
EDG
What is your current No.3 chambered in? What do you want the new caliber to be?
JES re-bored and re-chambered a NO.1V in .22-250 to .338-06 for me. http://www.35caliber.com/8.html
Good judgment comes from experience.
Experience comes from poor judgment.
You can't do that because you don't know where the extractor cut is going to be until it's screwed into your particular action. Headspace also isn't the same on those actions.
I did a #3 Ruger 22 Hornet, to .357 magnum myself. I was given a Douglas Premium 35 cal 1-14 barrel blank, which I used. It turned out great. I cut back the forend slightly to get rid of that stupid barrel band, and put a Talley barrel band on the barrel itself.
Nobade is correct, you must have the barrel torqued up, with correct headspace, to indicate where to make the extractor cut. I found that this for me, was the most challenging step of this project.
No way to make up a barrel for simple installation by an owner. As for the rib, it's not a requirement for making a Ruger shoot, unless you want it to look original. I'd prefer a new barrel to be heavier myself, as better chance it will shoot more accurate.
You can contact John Taylor who is on this forum to have your Ruger rebarreled.
I have a few #3s and always looking for good deals on them. My Gun Smith who was a real old fashion smith did one to 219 Zipper for a customer. Guy wanted 26" barrel heavy taper and bought
a wood set like a Win Hi-wall sporter. Stock was longer than factory and forearm had no barrel band.
Sadly my smith passed away a few years back and he was only real smith left in area that did 1 & 3
rebarrels. He used all Douglas barrels.
I will give another vote for John Taylor (member here). He just rebuilt a ruger #3 for me. Was a factory 45-70. Now re barreled to octagon 50-70 govt. With #1 wood . Quality work.
Is that the Taylor Machine in Puyallup? (I live in Wash St. - if so he is within driving distance.)
Not planning on mounting a Ruger rib or barrel band. I have a R#1 stock set I will rework.
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My gunsmith re-barreled my Ruger #3 with a Shilen blank in 6.8mm SPC. He had to modify the extractor to fit the smaller case head. That chambering & extractor are not common to Ruger 1/3's so a little specialty work was needed. I replaced the #3 wood with #1 wood so my rifle is now a Ruger #2.
Here's the 'smith:
Tumblweed Customs (tumbleweedrifles.com) Mark Pharr
Attachment 229964
Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.
Yes it sure is Taylor Machine in Puyallup. Send him a PM he will get back to you.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |