2nd that. Lost some nsz85 recently. Luckily, I have them on my hard drive.Originally Posted by Vettepilot
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2nd that. Lost some nsz85 recently. Luckily, I have them on my hard drive.
Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
I usually download the ones that interest me...Hooktube has some good videos as well
Don't want no one to git hurt, but if you're gonna have a wreck, I wanna watch.
Elvis Ammo, FortuneCookie45LC make decent videos. Elvis is way off on his bake temperature and time. his PC IS NOT fully cured.
Yep, I agree. He is an interesting character, but his rambling and speech tend to make me "crazy".
Sure wish some eccentric rich gun lover would make a GunTube, and make it profitable enough so that the posters would abandon YouTube. They are "cutting their own throats". Gun people will (Hopefully!) be around for a long time. A lot of the other fad stuff on YouTube the kids will grow out of...
Vettepilot
"Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)
Playing him at 2x gets the info to you faster, and it is kind of funny hehe, really accentuates the pauses in his patter.
Both ends WHAT a player
Powder coated my first bullets today. I cast up about a 100 Hensley & Gibbs #12 last night. It's a 147gr SWC for the 38 special & 357 mag. I sized them to .356. Today I put them in 3lb butter tub & covered them with hard black airsoft BBs & sprinkled in about 2 tbs of Eastwoods red wagon red powder. Swirled them hard for 30 sec. & then shook hard for 30 sec. Plucked them out with a long fine medical tweezers & put them in a tray. Preheated the toaster oven to 400 & slid the tray into the oven. Waited til paint began to flow & started the timer for 20 minutes according to Eastwoods directions on the bottle. Took them out and they look perfect. The only mistake I made was not using non-stick foil on the tray. Took a lot of thumb pressure to break them off the tray. They mic .358. Got some non-stick foil for the next batch. Also got a really nice good quality toaster oven for $5 at a rummage sale on the way home from getting the foil. Looking forward to the next batch.
Bob
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Ditto what OS said!A top quality PC'd cast requires a little extra effort, requires paying attention to details and following well established guidelines and of course using a quality PC product.
Our less than stellar results are from taking shortcuts, using low quality PC, shortening our baking times, neglect of temperature regulation, et cetera., et cetera., et cetera. ...
If you want to get into PC and do it Right! Elvis is not where you want to go. Elvis is indeed a guru, but not for PC.
An experiment is just that however. As long as the researcher posts his methods and results we might get some data. My recent adventures have led me to believe that the exact temperature in a persons oven may not be what they think. My actual temp was 75F lower than when my oven thermometer told me it was. The Thermometer is accurate IMHO but using it in a small environment loaded with radiant heat sources makes it read high. In a big gas oven it probably works great.
A closed box and some kind of pyro cones might be a really good way to check actual temperature. IR gun might work great if the surface reflection is correct, thinking about ordinary objects avail at retail that might offer a consistent surface reflection avail to anybody fairly easily.
Bill
Both ends WHAT a player
Or you could just put a serviceman's glass mercury thermometer in the oven, which is going have more accuracy we need for PC.
Harbor freight often has multi meters which include a type K thermocouple on sale pretty cheap I seem to recall getting one for $20 or so. For the person who has a multimeter they can just measure mV and adjust until they get 16 mV or more for 400F (pretty close)
https://www.thermocoupleinfo.com/typ...ermocouple.htm
Both ends WHAT a player
My estate sale $5 convection oven has turned out to be a real bargain. It is a convection oven & has a 60 minute timer with an on-off switch if turned counterclockwise. I put a temp probe in with it touching the middle rack and set it to 400 degrees F and came back a half hour later. The temp read 409 degrees F. So far so good. Three new Eastwood colors should arrive Sat and I have several hundred 134gr HP boolits ready to coat with Ford blue. The bullets were cast in a MP mold with no lube grooves just for powder coating. They should come out at .358. Looking forward to Saturday.
Bob
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midnight, before you bake your PC look up the full cure/bake time. I believe for Eastwood it's:
EASTWOOD - Cure Time: 20 Minutes AFTER flow out/the PC melts
not after you put them in the oven
Ayup
They are suitable for any metal surface and most cure at a temperature of 400 degrees F at 20 minutes after flow out. With Eastwood powders, you can be assured of high transfer efficiency and brilliant colors.
Both ends WHAT a player
Kinda funny how Elvis Ammo gets great accuracy, no leading, and does it all with his INFERIOR method.
What exactly does your superior method offer other than taking way more time setting up your perfectly arranged and cherished desk weights , along with a very high chance of creating a lower BHN of your lead? Maybe you could direct me to a video where the superior method shows itself in a convincing manner?
I may be a newb to casting and powder coating, but I'm not newb to forums and "experts" who can take an easy 3 step process and turn it into a 100 step nightmare.
We are not saying you can't get good looking boolits and good accuracy with the Elvis method. What we are saying is that IF you don't get a full cure on the powder coating, you risk the powder reacting to some smokeless powders. The under cured PC can get melted by the smokeless powder resulting in a glob behind the boolit, which could lead to poor or no accuracy or even failure to fire over time.
The process remains the same, the only difference is baking the PC to the manufacturer's specifications. baking an extra 10 to 15 min is cheap insurance to stop possible cartridge failure.
Don't take our word for it, test it yourself. put some Elvis method boolits in a small container covered with the smokeless powder you use, store it for a while and see if there is a reaction.
IF You put too light a charge of powder behind a boolit, it will shoot but it won't shoot right, this analogy is easy to see and comprehend.
IF a doctor tells you to take X amount of medicine and you go on youtube and see someone taking 1/2 that and feeling good who's right.
The long and short of it is. You decide what risks or shortcuts you take with your gun.
In one of his videos that I saw, you could clearly see on the shot bullets the marks the extruded gun powder made on the bullet bases. A clear sign of the powder having reacted with the PC; evidently due to improper cure. He didn't seem to notice it, or else didn't think it important.
My personal concern is not the effect on the PC on the base of the projectile; it is the degradation of the gun powder. I have seen (read of) instances where this has caused various problems. The word in this thread is that proper, manufacturer specified cure heat and times negates the problem.
In any case, I consider "Following the Directions" to be just good policy, not "meddling".
Vettepilot
Last edited by Vettepilot; 04-18-2019 at 04:17 PM.
"Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)
You are right conditor, Eastwood says 20 min after flowout. That's how I did my first batch in my old toaster oven. I expect my new convection oven to work as well or better.
Bob
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midnight, it didn't happen without pictures
Since I got my new computer with windows 10 I have been relearning what little I did know. Posting pics is something I havn't figured out yet. I used to do it all the time but now I have trouble getting pics into my computer let along getting them out. I coated my second batch of MP 359-125 penta HP today with Eastman ford blue & turquoise. Both colors turned out perfect. The hollow point made it easy to pick them up.
Bob
Last edited by midnight; 04-19-2019 at 07:36 PM.
Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu
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