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Thread: lightening a H&G 6 cavity

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    lightening a H&G 6 cavity

    I had a beloved H&G 4 cavity for a #51 GC, it was extremely accurate out of my M27 S&W. I stupidly sold it. I missed, it so when I ran across a 6 cavity for the same bullet I bought it. I couldn't believe how heavy it was. I believe I could use it for a wood splitting mallet!
    So, now I'm looking for a legitimit way to lighten it without affecting the casting qualities, also looking for some lighter standard plier type handles. Has anybody gone through this?
    Thanks
    "There's a Fine Line Between Hobby and Mental Illness"!

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    As well as they cast I would hesitate to do very much to it. Many guys cast with those larger gang molds in ways where they don't have to pick them up as much. Google probably can find a video of this.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Before modifying the mould you might consider a balancer for it. Mount it to the ceiling above your casting area and set tension to offset moulds weight. A simple pully and counter weight will do the same thing. 2 pulleys one over the pot and one behind bench a light weight cord ran thru them and a plastic jar on one end a clip for the mould. Use cast bullets shot or other weights in the plastic jar to Balance the mould handles combination. the weight is behind the bench out of the way. Set the length of the cord so there is leeway in movement up and down from pot to bench dropping bullets

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    You need some type of bullet mould guide/support I use the old lyman mould guide that I adapted to fit the RCBS pot by drilling 2 holes in the rcbs's pot mounting base. the rcbs came with a bent rod with 2 adjustiable barrel stops for horozintal adj but you were balancing the mould on the thin bent rod. the lyman can fully support the mould as well as keep it aligned right & left with the pot spout and has a adjustiable mould stop so the first rear cavitywill be aligned with the spout
    I have 5 saeco 8 cavity moulds and they are a lot lighter than H&G moulds as well as 6,4,3,2, cavity and it works excellent with all moulds
    Another note don't close the mould suspended in the air as the mould alignement pin holes will get egg shaped and your mold will be out of alignement ! set the mould on a flat surface and then close the mould this will keep the holes from going oversize
    Last edited by bobthenailer; 10-27-2018 at 11:54 AM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    See if some one here has a 4 cavity they will swap you for.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    H&G used to do this early on to help with weight:

    http://www.hensleygibbs.com/molds/po...lly%20mold.jpg

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    thanks.....all food for thought.
    "There's a Fine Line Between Hobby and Mental Illness"!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    I bought a mold shelf from a guy for a ProMelt. It really helps with those 6 & 8 cavity H&G's.


    Check NOE, Al makes a mold guide that fits most pots & has adapters for those different pots.
    Last edited by LenH; 10-29-2018 at 10:11 AM. Reason: added content

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Not too difficult to make your own rest. I don't know why RCBS hasn't made one for the Pro Melt as that single rod is a joke. This one can even take the weight of a 10 cavity mold. The H&G 10 and 6 cavity molds are really too heavy, I know! I can get more production running two 4 captivates simultaneously. I personally would not try to lighten the mold, just sell it as is and look for a 4 cavity.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Personally I wouldn't touch the mould at all.
    The #51 is also my go to mould for 38/357. I like it because it has a lube groove the size of the Panama Canal.
    I have 4 cavities in both the GC and PB design.
    I also use 6 8 and 10 cavity H&G's for some of the submachine gun calibers. S55 (.380) 10 cavity is a monster to use. It puts out a a TON of bullets to shoot in the Mac M11A1 subgun.
    I use a 20 lb Lee Production Pot with a mould guide.
    That is the only way to help with the weight of the H&G's.
    If you use a mould guide you won't notice the weight so much.
    Those big H&G's are works of the machinist's art. It would be a sin to cut them down.
    Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 11-03-2018 at 08:00 AM.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy

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    I once saw an H&G on eBay that someone lightened by drilling holes into the mould blocks. They drilled holes everywhere they could. It looked like Swiss cheese.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    We don't need pics on that one hehe

  14. #14
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brassrat View Post
    We don't need pics on that one hehe
    That would be as offensive as naked pictures of Rosie O'Donnell.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    That would be as offensive as naked pictures of Rosie O'Donnell.
    Why would you say something like that? I thought there were rules about such stuff on this board.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I didn't need that picture in my head.
    "There's a Fine Line Between Hobby and Mental Illness"!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check