StainLess Steel MediaWidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan Reloading
Graf & SonsInline FabricationRotoMetals2Lee Precision
Repackbox
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Kirst gated con cylinder ?.

  1. #1

    Kirst gated con cylinder ?.

    Hi guy's ,
    My other half has agreed to let me buy a conversion cylinder for one of my BP revolvers so I have chosen the Rem 1858 .
    The question I have is , (well two questions really) do I get the Taylors R&D or the gated Kirst ?.
    I am leaning towards the gated Kirst but afore I commit to it and shell out all that dough for it I need your comments on the mod I need to do to the rear shield and the Dremal work involved .
    Now i'm not a bad " modder " but by no means a guy who is very well versed in this kind of stuff ,
    so guy's is it job for the gunsmiths of the world or can a reasonably normal fella with a small hand tool do this ?.

    Thank you and please say it's not that hard because I NEED that Kirst,,,,, .
    Keep breathing , it's good for ya...

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Western Pa.
    Posts
    7
    When I ordered my uberti walkers, I ordered a pair of Kirst Konverters. I had the authorized gunsmith install them and finish the coloring. You can not even tell that the gun was not made that way. I shot smokeless for several years and never had to break down the guns. Now I’m learning the nuances of black powder and have to break it down more often. If you have the extra bucks I’d send it to their smith. If you like your own work, diy. I don’t think it’s a big deal but the gate is the way to go.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by John E.B. Rawton View Post
    When I ordered my uberti walkers, I ordered a pair of Kirst Konverters. I had the authorized gunsmith install them and finish the coloring. You can not even tell that the gun was not made that way. I shot smokeless for several years and never had to break down the guns. Now I’m learning the nuances of black powder and have to break it down more often. If you have the extra bucks I’d send it to their smith. If you like your own work, diy. I don’t think it’s a big deal but the gate is the way to go.
    Thx John, after snooping around the interweb last night I think I can pull this dermal job off,
    It doesn't look too complicated and I have the tools so i'm going to order the Kirst and go for it.

    Thanks man.
    Keep breathing , it's good for ya...

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    679
    Not a hard job, straight forward.
    Go for it.
    Failure is not an Option

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Ventura Co.
    Posts
    14
    Post up a step by step conversion post so we can see how it's done...please?

  6. #6
    Well thanks fella's .
    I checked the tracking this afternoon and it's supposed to be here Saturday so it's a go.
    I dug out all my Rat-tailed files out and have my Dremel gear all ready to go, going to grab some Gun Blue and a couple of sheets of 600 grit paper Saturday morning.

    Next question I got is Ejector rod ,,,, I won't be loading anything near factory loads, I like light paper punching loads for range fun also i'll probably get some Schofield brass and play with that also so I expect the spent brass to fall out when I " up-end " muzzle.

    Apart from looking the part , do I need an Ejector rod ?. … shoot i'll probably get one anyway who am I kidding,,, ? lol.
    Keep breathing , it's good for ya...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by 415m3 View Post
    Post up a step by step conversion post so we can see how it's done...please?
    Might just do that brother.
    Keep breathing , it's good for ya...

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Ventura Co.
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by gavlan View Post
    Well thanks fella's .
    I checked the tracking this afternoon and it's supposed to be here Saturday so it's a go.
    I dug out all my Rat-tailed files out and have my Dremel gear all ready to go, going to grab some Gun Blue and a couple of sheets of 600 grit paper Saturday morning.

    Next question I got is Ejector rod ,,,, I won't be loading anything near factory loads, I like light paper punching loads for range fun also i'll probably get some Schofield brass and play with that also so I expect the spent brass to fall out when I " up-end " muzzle.

    Apart from looking the part , do I need an Ejector rod ?. … shoot i'll probably get one anyway who am I kidding,,, ? lol.
    Doesn't Kirst sell a conversion / rod & guide combo? Thats what I was lookig at too

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Ventura Co.
    Posts
    14

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 415m3 View Post
    Yup the rod, I think you can get them from maybe at Taylors and some other outfits out there.
    I think they make one called the Mason speed ejector which has the spring as most other offerings don't have the spring.
    But yer that's what i'm looking at, they are out there to be had.
    Keep breathing , it's good for ya...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check