Old Model 30 Carbine

[georgerkahn]

Overkill -- I "hear" your frustration! Where I reside, minimal population is the major "plus" -- putting services including a gunsmith requiring a minimal 75 mile drive... with him so over-booked, four to six months is not out of the unusual wait time for a repair. I have a .30 carbine Ruger Blackhawk, which I purchased quite used, with it sporting a 7 ½” barrel; s/n 51-193xx, made in 1980. My only complaint and one-half with this revolver is it gives new definition to ***LOUD*** when fired. And, the 1/2-complaint is my instructions advise against use of lead cast bullets -- which I believe is their being cognizant of the timing issue -- e.g., lead shaving. (???) Regardless -- for me -- it's been a great toy. The sights always seem to shoot low (just a "hair" -- which, as soon as I recall -- make it non consequential on targets) I got it due to its price being better than "right" and at the time it seemed a great complement to my IAI .30 carbine. Good luck-- it seems you're in right direction -- in finding someone competent to make it safe!

[JoeJames]

I never really understood the why of it, but the 30 carbine Ruger has always had a reputation for being excessively loud; as in both plugs and muffs recommended.

[9.3X62AL]

Louder that Purgatory's Drumline, Joe. M1 Carbine ammo or reloads approaching their pressures announce their discharges in no uncertain terms.

I have had 3 of these, and my current example has been the most accurate of them. It dotes upon the Lee Soup Can run at a loud 1350-1400 FPS, and more gently on the Lee 100 RN plain base at 900 FPS.

[ShooterAZ]

They also throw a huge red fireball with LC GI ammo.

[9.3X62AL]

They also throw a huge red fireball with LC GI ammo.

WW-296 behind 110 JSPs gives a healthy yellow-orange flash at dusk that lights up adjacent hillsides and canyon walls nicely. It might seem that I bought the 30 Carbine BH as an obnoxious noisemaker, but it is actually a pretty decent varminter. With 100-120 grain bullets at 900-1000 FPS it is not such a nasty eardrum drill and will anchor small and medium varmints pretty well. Most of its quarry has been jackrabbits, and these lighter loads would probably do for coyotes. I just never seem to have the BH along when I kick up song dogs.

[45 Dragoon]

Overkill,
Your problem lies within the Ruger design for the frame mounted hand spring. It was a genius idea when introduced and has been copied by most modern made S.A. producers. I was taught NOT to do this type of conversion (only on competition guns) for the very reason you posted your post. It typically introduces a throw-by situation that is common for Ruger S.A.s as evidenced by the "beauty ring" usually found on their cylinders. It is considered normal on the Ruger S.A. In the competition crowd, it is called "Ruger-run-around" when the shooter has to keep cycling the action to fire the round missed because of throw-by.
Anyway, I do this conversion routinely as part of my service now because I have (for the most part) addressed the throw-by problem. My conversion uses a slightly larger diameter pushrod (plunger) powered by a shorter but stouter spring. The result is a setup that mimics the hand action of a Colt but has the "unbreakableness" of the Ruger! The job of the hand is not only cylinder rotation, it is also supposed to apply a braking effect to help with cyl lockup. One of the first signs of a failing or broken hand spring in a Colt style action is . . . cyl throw-by. This is the reason for the stout spring in my conversion.

So, I would suggest that your spring be replaced with one that has more tension. That should definitely help with your situation.

Mike

[Drm50]

I have had a lot of Ruger Blackhawks, 3screw. At one time in 60s I had one of each in each barrel length, some pairs. All bought new. I never had any trouble with any Ruger SA that I bought new.
I still buy 3screws from time to time but no new models. I have seen used 3screws that had firing pin tracks between chambers. Never occurring in my guns I thought it was damage caused by fanning the hammer. It never occurred to me that it was part failure before the fact. I have even seen this on Single-6s. I guess I had tunnel vision on this because of seeing many Colt clones of the
day that were ruined by fanning. By tunnel I guess OP is referring to a groove cut so firing pin never
hangs up? Makes sense to me that when gun is briskly cocked there is a issue on parts with the sudden stop of cylinder. One part has wear on it the over travel would be built in.

[0verkill]

Finally a few people who understand. Sorry for losing it earlier, but I only get on the internet every week or two and it's a bit frustrating to keep getting the same answer to a question I never asked.
45 Dragoon, thanks for your help especially. I tried a wave washer to put more pressure against the front of the cylinder to slow it down, but it was too thick. As it was one I robbed off a LEE mould to try I didn't want to thin it down. I did notice the top protrusion of the hand seemed small, like it didn't make enough contact.

Drm50, yes the tunnel is the circular groove cut between chambers so the firing pin doesn't hit steel when it passes the chamber.

No fanning has ever been done with it that I'm aware of, especially not by me. By run at speed I mean holding the revolver tight in my right hand with only my trigger finger moving and supporting and cocking with the left. Even going at a fairly slow pace sighting it in I had it skip once.

[ReloaderFred]

Asked and answered. No further discussion is necessary, since the OP has been told what needs to be done. Any further action is up to him.

Thread closed.