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Thread: Building new melting pots

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

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    Question Building new melting pots

    Guys
    Some questions for you, as I am new to this type of making my own casting equipment,

    I dug out some of the casting equipment, has been setting unused for the last 10-15yrs,
    3 different elect pots and all 3 quit had working.........

    So, I decided to start over and build the proper setup, a med/large melting pot bottom pour, to render down the pure lead,
    make small ingots to use in a smaller elect pot, for casting my pellets etc.

    I got a empty HELIUM tank that used used to fill balloons, used the sawsall to cut it, AFTER filling it with truck exhaust fumes,
    the bottom half is about 6"" tall and 9-1/2" in diameter, but I have NO Idea how much lead it will hold, filled up to 4-5".

    My question is, the thickness of the metal, which is about .065" thick, (Helium tank),
    and I have doubts about it being strong enough to work, over time etc,
    it appears to be decent quality of metal, I think.

    The older 5 gal LPG tank, cut in half is about .100" thick, but is quite rusted inside,
    so not sure of it's value, for converting to a melting pot etc.?

    I have an Idea about how to make a bottom pour, with the pour outlet heated via the LPG gas,
    with a big burner to prevent freeze ups, which will be a lapped in tapered valve, welded into the bottom,
    with the outlet up to about 1/2" tall where the lead flows out, with the usual methods of using/filling etc.

    And then there is a small LPG tank, setting here looking at me,
    that is 9" in diameter and 12" tall, that has LPG smell coming from the valve........
    that has set open for a long time............

    I think the small LPG tank (better steel) may be a better option, in the long run.

    Your thoughts or suggestions, do doing this safely...........

    Tia,
    Don

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    A cut down helium tank is exactly what I use to smelt my wheelweights. Yes, the walls are thin, but I have used mine for about 10 yrs without any problems. I store it outside, just below my bbq grill. I use the side burner to smelt lead.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    On the helium tank if you wanted to Stiffen it up some bend a snug fitting ring of 1/8" X 1" and weld it in place around the cut edge. this will stiffen the top quite a bit and the sides some. Another thing is to cut a ring from the tank used and tack weld to bottom making a full dia base to sit on this makes it very stable in use.

    I made a propane tank pot from a 25 lb cylinder. I cut the bottom 3-4" from the bottom radius up. removed the original base and welded the 4" ring on it. it sits very stable on the burner stand. Holds around 130 lbs and with the concave bottom ladles really well. Another plus to the full sized base ring is most of the heat is contained on a bottom pour set up most of it will be contained under the pot in this ring

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    A cylinder with a 9.5" internal diameter and 6" tall has a volume of about 425 cubic inches. That's about 165# of pure molten lead.

    What is that helium cylinder made of? I have a pot that's a twenty pound propane cylinder cut in half. I have put two hundred pounds of lead in it with plenty of room to spare and the thin steel (a little Google search gave me a minimum spec of 2.27 mm thickness) doesn't show any sign of not being able to handle the load. My impression of gas cylinders I've seen is that they're made of heavier steel, and rated to 2200 psi or more, way higher than a LPG tank.

    If you don't use the gas cylinder as a melting pot, you could weld a ring on the closed end and use it as a bell. Very popular as an accompaniment to certain actvities among a certain set (NOT mine) out here in California.
    Last edited by kevin c; 10-13-2018 at 11:26 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy

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    County Gent

    Thanks for the info.

    I was thinking about doing that, so I could add a bail/carrying handle and it would also give me a place,
    to bolt/weld the standoff for the valve down rod, which I want to keep the down rod as close as possible to the sides,
    (to have as much room possible for stirring/cleaning etc), and still have a straight shot as possible to the outlet valve head,
    that will attached via welding or HD threaded ring on the bottom.

    The top of the exit valve hole will be 1/2-1" above the bottom of the tank,
    and the down rod will be some SS rods I have available, tapered to a 60* cone, and will match the 60* taper of the valve seat,
    on the top of this rod, and will lapped in, there will be a spring to force the down rod closed, and prevent any leaking, I hope.

    On the bottom of this tank, there is 4 dimples pressed in, for feet, too narrow for me, about 4" apart,
    I like your suggestion about cutting a smaller band to go around the bottom, for a wide base, and contain the heat.

    I planned on leaving a narrow slot, 2-3" wide, in this ring for the bottom pour piping exit point,
    which will be heated via the burner, preventing any freeze up on the exit pipe etc.

    Would 3/4" to 1" slot/hole every inch around this ring top provide enough heat to travel up the sides,
    from the main LPG burner/heat source?

    I am reading all the posts in this section, from oldest to the newest, and have found some good into, but very few photo's etc,
    showing the different parts made by other members, (a picture is worth a 1000 words) as they say.

    Tia,
    Don

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy

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    Kevin C

    Thank you for the amount of lead possible for this tank,
    I don't plan on filling to the rim, as I have bad hands/wrists,
    and feel the weight would be too much for me to handle safely etc.

    This Helium tank is the type used for filling Balloons, and is .065" thick and unknown steel type to me,
    it does have a very nice ring to it when struck, but I am not into bells, LOL.

    Tia,
    Don

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy

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    Casting Fool

    Thanks for that info, gives me a vote of confidence for it's strength etc.

    Did you coat/paint (high temp) the insides, to reduce any sticking of lead?
    Did you add any material, welded band around the top edge for extra strength?
    I plan to, for a bail/handle and the inside valve down rod attachment points etc.

    This tank is so clean and pretty inside....LOL

    Tia,
    Don

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy

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    Guys,

    What diameter of the bottom pour piping should I use?

    I believe that black pipe would be best, I am thinking 1/4" pipe size would be enough?

    Have a 90* elbow, a very short section of straight pipe, then another 90* elbow straight down, for pouring ingots.

    There will be a slot in the bottom base stand for the exit of this pipe, which will be kept hot via the LPG burner,
    so I wont have to worry about freeze ups etc.

    Which would be the best angle of the valve seat/down rod, 45* or 60* angles, I can make either.

    Any other suggestions or Ideas, or photo's would be a great help,
    and will be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you,
    Don
    Last edited by nvreloader; 10-15-2018 at 03:49 PM. Reason: correct mistakes

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I cut the ring and used a square and dividers to lay out the holes around the edge. I used the square set to 1/4" to give distance back from edge then a set of dividers to layout the 8 evenly spaced holes. I used a wrap of masking tape to lay out with a pencil. Set the dividers close and a small mark around and adjust in or out as need to get 8 evenly spaced marks. I then cut the holes wth a 1 1/2" hole saw. I cant give the spacing on the propane tank in inches since I didn't actually measure it. I set the dividers to what looked like 45* on the tank worked around and adjusted them as needed to hit the first mark when the holes were layed out.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    My bottom pour pot, uses 1/2 pipe, you dont want to use 1/4 I tried it any tiny piece of scrap will give you problems, if it gets pulled into the spout. Also a 223 fmj makes a perfect fitting weld plug in 1/4 pipe and will take forever to remove. Believe me I tried it. Fmj bullets expand and most of the time explode when in a melt. This one just expanded and perfectly fit the spout.

    If you can weld a scrap yard will have everything you need. My pot uses a 12" burner, and a 12" dia section of pipe with 3/8 walls. I purposely used a long section of pipe to help reduce the amount of o2 in contact with the lead.

    The long section also let's me have a good 4" of ash on top of my melt, which helps reduce o2 contact and the chance of a steam explosion.

    If I was going to build another. The things I would make different are: use 3/8 plate for the bottom instead 1/4 and mount the burner lower. Also I would use yokes made out turnbuckles instead or making my own from scratch. They look and work much better than scratch made ones.

    My pot counting the burner, hose, fittings and regulator cost me $120. Just the pot cost $50.

    With the wind screen I added, 1/4 of a propane tank made about 270lbs of 10lb ingots. A full tank should be good for about 600lbs of ingots.

    Here is a thread with some pics of my ingot maker.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...50#post4460650
    Last edited by Ramson222; 10-15-2018 at 05:14 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    For the yoke on the lever, buy a turn buckle, cut it in half, then weld a bolt that fits the turnbuckel onto one end of your lever. This way you get a nice adjustable yoke on your pot.

    I used a 45degree angle on my valve rod.

    You will also need to lap the valve rod to fit the hole in the pot, otherwise it will leak.

    If you need any more help just message me. I went through a lot of trial and error to get my own bottom pour working.
    Last edited by Ramson222; 10-15-2018 at 06:25 AM.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvreloader View Post
    Casting Fool

    Thanks for that info, gives me a vote of confidence for it's strength etc.

    Did you coat/paint (high temp) the insides, to reduce any sticking of lead?
    Did you add any material, welded band around the top edge for extra strength?
    I plan to, for a bail/handle and the inside valve down rod attachment points etc.

    This tank is so clean and pretty inside....LOL

    Tia,
    Don
    Hi Don

    I did not coat the inside, the resulting rust does a good job of keeping the lead from sticking. Also, I did not add anything to the edge for extra strength. I only used a file to get rid of any burrs or sharp edges. I wish I had added a ring around the bottom to help keep the heat in, and make the pot more stable. This was mostly due to ignorance, but we learn from our mistakes.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy

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    Country Gent

    Thanks for the info,
    Will get out the equipment and lay everything out,
    as I have to leave a 1-2" wide door for the bottom valve exit etc.

    Tia,
    Don

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy

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    Ransoom222

    Thanks for the info,
    I am building a smaller pot for 22 cal pellets and smaller ingots etc.

    There is no scrap yards around without a 50-100 mile drive 1 way,
    so I have scrounge it from the local dump, when available.

    My valve outlet will be 1/2" to 1" above the pot bottom, so I should be good to go, I hope,
    it will be a tapered cone valve with lapped seats etc.

    Tia,
    Don

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy

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    Casting Fool

    Thanks,
    I will be adding a fire ring to the bottom, as I'll have a bottom pour valve,
    should help keep it hot enough to prevent freeze ups.

    I am attempting to get the best tank setup possible, with as few mistakes as possible
    so I am stealing a little bit from everyone's tank set ups, I can find etc.

    Trying to learn for this type of melting pot set up etc,
    so I'll build a small one first to learn, then go to a build one to cover everything else.

    Tia,
    Don
    Last edited by nvreloader; 10-15-2018 at 03:45 PM.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvreloader View Post
    Ransoom222

    Thanks for the info,
    I am building a smaller pot for 22 cal pellets and smaller ingots etc.

    There is no scrap yards around without a 50-100 mile drive 1 way,
    so I have scrounge it from the local dump, when available.

    My valve outlet will be 1/2" to 1" above the pot bottom, so I should be good to go, I hope,
    it will be a tapered cone valve with lapped seats etc.

    Tia,
    Don
    The little pieces of steel from the wheel weights and other scrap will float ontop of the melt and cause clogs.
    Unless your going to never empty the pot, bellow the level of the valve, then its fine.
    Just put the valve outlet in the bottom.
    With it on the bottom the scrap stays clear of the outlet until the last drop.
    Last edited by Ramson222; 10-15-2018 at 06:26 PM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    here is some close up pics of my pot. Everything you need to know should be in the photos.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy

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    Ramson 222

    Thanks for the photo's, they'll help me,

    But, Me thinks you missed some of the info, on what I posted,

    Here is what I posted, Post #14,

    "My valve outlet will be 1/2" to 1" above the pot bottom, so I should be good to go", I hope,
    it will be a tapered cone valve with lapped seats etc.

    I had planned on leaving the small amount of good clean lead in the bottom, for next session, as I'll have clean ingots to start with etc.

    I am making 2 of these type of pots,
    a smaller one casting my 17/22 CF calibers and including air rifle pellets,
    and the larger one will handle every thing else up to the 44/45 calibers, and making more ingots etc.

    Thank you,
    Don

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    I would just make a larger one and use that to melt scrap into ingots. Then buy a lee bottom pour and thermometer to do all the bullet casting. This way your bottom pour pot will only ever be used with clean alloy. This is how I and many others operate.

    I knew that you wanted smaller pot, I just thought the pics of my big one would help. I didn't realize you were making a pot for casting bullets. I don't think other's realized this either, after I went back and read through the thread.

    It will be very hard to control temp with a propane fired pot.
    You also wont be able to use it inside because of carbon monoxide build up.
    Last edited by Ramson222; 10-15-2018 at 07:33 PM.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Anyways post some pictures when you are done.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check