Building new melting pots

[nvreloader]

Ok Guys

Step 2,
I have the Helium tank cut in half, trued up, cut the top off the tank and split down the side,
this leaves a ring that is about 6+" tall, to use as a wind screen/sheild and will direct the flames up the sides for about 4+".

I have the (top of the tank) curved section turned up side down and slipped around/up the walls from the bottom,
about 4" to direct the remaining heat to travel up the sides, and this leaves about 2" of empty space below the tank bottom,
where I will mount the LPG High pressure 4" diameter burner inside this ring.

There is about a 2+" wide opening for the bottom pour pipe, 4" long to exit the bottom ring,
with a 1/4" black pipe elbow pointing down, for filling ingot molds etc.

The valve is SS with a 60* bevel for the stem which will also have a 60* cone to fit inside the valve,
and the top will extend 1" above from tank bottom, and I will lap these 2 together just before final mounting.

There will be a triangle piece that comes out from the inside of the tank wall,
and the valve rod will be bored/threaded thru this piece, and go straight down to the valve top,
and be less than 3" out from the inside wall, to leave as much as possible of clear space,
for cleaning the dross/trash out etc.

I plan on adding a 1/2 to 3/4" wide x 1/8" band around the very top,
which will welded along the very top edge to the pot, and will have a 1/4" bail handle attached thru this top ring.

Some of the questions I am not sure about,

I can't decide,
If I want a push down thumb lever system with a spring return assist,
or a screw type system for controlling the lead output,
with 1/8" pour hole or slightly larger diameter, thru the valve exit,
I have 1/4" black pipe elbow pour spout that screws on the SS valve.

Will a 1/4" clear space around the tank sides, be enough to allow enough good heat to go up the 4" sides,
or would 1/2" space be better?

I have not attached anything together yet, as I am NOT sure which way to go,
or if I have the correct/enough dimensions for everything to operate correctly yet.

Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Tia,
Don

[nvreloader]

Guys

I'll ask again........ as I don't know the answers,

No one, has any thoughts or suggestions to the questions I have asked above?

Tia,
Don

[lightman]

Theres probably not a wrong answer on the pour handle, its more personal preference. 1/4 inch space around the sides should be adequate. I'm thinking 1/4 in on the pouring spout may be a little small for filling ingot molds. Please post up some pictures when its finished.

[Hossfly]

1/4’’ around pot like lightman says should be plenty for getting heat to come up and cover bottom for effecient heat, you could go 1/2’’ with more flow but less eff. You could close up later if you could be able to reach with some type of seal, just to have that option would be great. And I would try to install larger opening for bottom valve, you could always reduce down or adjust your stroke on top lever travel if too much flow.

[nvreloader]

Thanks Guys

I have the equipment to make a cap to fit the 1/4" BP exit spout, and I can make any sized exit hole needed,
what I did not want was a big gush of hot lead splashing all over, when fill my smaller ingots, that are 1/2" to 3/4" dia x 7" long.

I think I way a way to start with 1/4" gap/spacing for the heat shield around the tank, and can widen it to 1/2" if needed,
by adding some spacers etc.

I don't think that this pot would work very well, for casting my air rifle pellets,
so I'll see if I can fix my old lee bottom pour pot and get it back into operation,
I think the heater core went out.

Tia,
Don

[airone46]

I used a 10 kg GPL bottle, cut at about half of its height. The thickness is very robust, and I've never had any deformations! I used the bottom, because I did not want valves! I use a large kitchen ladle or a small stainless steel pot to take the melted lead and pour it into a mold with 12 cavities for muffins !!! An ingot weighs about 2 pounds. The Lee INGOT MOLD gives me 4 pieces for a total weight of about 3 pounds, but it did not last long! The handle burnt and tended to come off: VERY dangerous !!! And then it costs as much as 2 molds of 12 muffins!
I filled the mold with the ladle or the small saucepan, covered the old mold with an old wet blanket, and filled another mold. In the meantime the lead of the first mold was solidified, but it was always very hot: I emptied it in a first metal bucket, and then I passed it in another full of water, and I went on like this! So the molds were always DRY!