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Thread: Sticky Mould

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Sticky Mould

    I am still quite new to casting but been giving it a good go, but...

    I am casting 148gr Wadcutters in a Lee 6 cavity mould, lead now with 1.5% tin, the cast is not dropping out the mould very well and most of the time they need some help by pushing them out with a screwdriver, yeah not good..... there does not seem to be anything in the mould, all looks clean and have tried re-smoking it, maybe I am not smoking it enough, any other suggestions?

    Thanks

    Dave

  2. #2
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    ShooterAZ's Avatar
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    Sometimes a new mold just needs to be broken in. You didn't mention your alloy temp, but you might want to go around 725* or so.. Get yourself a wooden hammer handle or something similar, and give a light tap on the mold handle hinge bolt head. See if that helps.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    LUCKYDAWG13's Avatar
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    You could try and smoke it
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShooterAZ View Post
    Sometimes a new mold just needs to be broken in. You didn't mention your alloy temp, but you might want to go around 725* or so.. Get yourself a wooden hammer handle or something similar, and give a light tap on the mold handle hinge bolt head. See if that helps.
    Temp? Yep, no idea, guess I need to get a thermometer.... Have tried tapping it, does not budge them.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
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    sounds like you might have a sharp edge along the parting line of your mold, there are several things you can try the first is to take a new pencil and rub it on and around the cavities with the easer end. Then clean it good with hot water and Dawn then cast again.

    This will be trail and error until you smooth the mold.

    Gotta know your heat to!

    get a magnify glass and look at the mold burrs and rough edges.

    HM

  6. #6
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    Hotter alloy will cause the bullets to shrink more as they cool. Less likely to stick in the mold. Frosted bullets are ok, buy may be slightly smaller in diameter by .0005"

  7. #7
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    ShooterAZ's Avatar
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    If it is being caused by burrs on the mold, a q-tip is useful to find them. It will catch and pull strands. Also, yes you should get a thermometer! Each mold will usually have a sweet spot with temperature, and the boolits will just fall out upon opening the mold. If not, a light tap on the bolt will usually persuade them.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    The q-tip will show rough surfaces and edges quickly. A good look at the edges under magnification at the edges and surfaces may reveal something also. Another quick check to do is set a dowel pin in 2 of the cavities and measure down to the face with the depth rod of your calipers do this on both blocks to see if the cavities are centered. Cavities cut off center can lock the bullets up pretty tightly. You may need a piece of flat stock to span the dowels also. 1/4" dowels 1/2"-3/4" long should work fine, the measurement should be within .002-.003 between the 2 halves.

    Sometimes a light polish with a slug impregnated with flitz, simichrome, tooth paste or red rouge goes a long way in smoothing surfaces and edges aiding in release and finish of the bullet. I do this by hand.
    Cast some good bullets and mark bases drill a hole into base and glue a piece of 1/8" key stock into it 1 1/2" long. you want a blind hole don't break thru. Make 2-3 of these. Impregnate 1 with compound, spread a small amount on a flat plate and roll the bullet thru it with another plate. This impregnates the outer surfaces of the bullet. If you want a full cvity lap then lightly coat all the bullet.

    Gently insert this into the cavity and carefully close blocks around it.
    I use a small tap tee handle. work the bullet back and forth 1/4 turn 3-4 times and rotate 1/4 turn thru 1-2 rotations do this in all the cavities.

    Cast some bullets and check release, size and finish. If more is needed and size allows then repeat above.

    The above may help a little with a off center cavity if not to far off. It does a lot for rough surfaces sharp edges and under cut surfaces.

    Look at the bullets pay attention to parting lines and sides of grease grooves for bright / rub marks this can indicate and under cut surface or off center ccavity and mechanical lock.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    In place of the smoke , a coat of dry lubricant . Dry lubes are micro particles of Teflon suspended in an alcohol carrier , after coating a cavity the alcohol evaporates and leaves a micro thin non stick film of Teflon on it ....and you know how well a Teflon coated pan works .
    The first time I tried this the boolits jumped out the mould when I opened it....Simply Amazing !
    Just try it once and see. I had a bottle of Liquid Wrench Dry Lube in the garage and another member posted how amazing this stuff worked...I tried it and he was 100% right , they jumped out the mould .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    Try coating the cavities with pencil lead from a #2 pencil. If you find a rough edge try polishing it out with the pencil eraser. A sharp point will get into the recesses.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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