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Thread: Rebarreling a 1901 Rolling Block

  1. #1
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Rebarreling a 1901 Rolling Block

    If you were to have a Remington RB Model 1901 rebarrel what cal would you choose? Already have a 45/70, so that is off the list. Have given thought to either 30-40 krag or 303 British.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Both of those are great choices, but I would go with a 7x57 Mauser, had one in this caliber and regret selling it. No recoil shooting factory ammo or handloads, shot flat and around 1&1/2 inch groups at 100yds!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    A 32WCF with a light sporter weight barrel 22” long sounds like a nice idea. Todd/3leg

    P.S. but 303 or 30/40 are nice depending on which one you have reloading dies and molds to feed it with....
    Last edited by 3leggedturtle; 10-10-2018 at 10:22 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Maybe 32-40 or 38-55. depending on what you want to do with the rifle. 40-65 is also an option. I have heard the longer cartridges may require mods to the hammer spur to make loading easier

  5. #5
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Maybe 32-40 or 38-55. depending on what you want to do with the rifle. 40-65 is also an option. I have heard the longer cartridges may require mods to the hammer spur to make loading easier
    Ditto. I did one in .40-65 on an original action, and the next one will be one of those two calibers. I'm also doing one presently in .40-50SS which is a caliber I love. Easy to form brass from cheap .303 British, and very close to the .38-55 in performance.

    My .40-65 Roller:




  6. #6
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    30-40 Krag for me.

  7. #7
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    Another 40-65 Roller built on the Swede 8MM action. A 40-50 would be fun as well. If you are going to shoot BP I'd stay away from the 30cals, fouling gets to be a problem.

    Bob
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  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Drm50's Avatar
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    I bought a RB that was a 7x57, along with a Numerich arms Buffalo Kit 45/70. Previous owner had
    not got around to putting it together. Since 7x57 barrel was shot I put it together. Not hard at all- but
    on small smokeless action the clearence for 45/70 cartridge isn't there. I had to do a little reshaping
    on top of block. I didn't get carried away but was still just barely enough. I also had a RB carbine in
    30/40 that had a Nickle plated action. I bought it that way and guy had no idea of origination. Might
    have been 30/40 from Rem and plated later?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Leaning to the 30-40 at the moment, What twist for 180-220 gr cast bullets.
    Last edited by brstevns; 10-11-2018 at 08:23 PM.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    DRM 50- your nickel plated action could have been factory- plating was popular back then for corrosion resistance. I'd go with the common 1-10" twist but I have only used jacketed bullets with the 30-40.
    It's gonna be neat.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Need to start looking for a barrel blank for my Smith to work with.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brstevns View Post
    Need to start looking for a barrel blank for my Smith to work with.
    I'd look into Borchardt Rifle Co. barrel blanks. Extremely accurate, and cheaper than even some economy priced barrels.

    http://www.brcbarrels.com/

  13. #13
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Would a 1.350 diameter barrel blank work on the 1901 aciton?

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Remember fr a rimless ctg you will need a special extractor and for rimmed you can weld up and use the old one. I would stay with a low pressure round and would prefer a 38-55 or 32-40. You can get a little springing with the 303 if you load warm and samo with the 7MM Mauser.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy Drm50's Avatar
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    The 30/40 RB I had with nickeled reciever had a naval type Anchor & rope design in top of ring. Guy
    that bought it thought it many have come from a military school. ??? I don't know, never saw another.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Average pressures for the 30-40 Krag run about 40K the 303 British runs about 45K 174 grain jacketed flatbase 2440 feet per second. Think you would be better off with the Krag cartridge. Great long neck for cast bullets. Easy to load for and great bullet selection. Frank

  17. #17
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by samari46 View Post
    Average pressures for the 30-40 Krag run about 40K the 303 British runs about 45K 174 grain jacketed flatbase 2440 feet per second. Think you would be better off with the Krag cartridge. Great long neck for cast bullets. Easy to load for and great bullet selection. Frank
    Yes , I decided on the 30-40 Krag. No plans on hot rodding the round. Have other rifles for that purpose.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Makes me want to rechamber my 1897 RB #5 to 32-40 or 38-55 myself. Unfortunately, I have to get someone to do all the work, as I don't know how or have the equipment to do so. It is just collecting dust now.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shafer44 View Post
    Makes me want to rechamber my 1897 RB #5 to 32-40 or 38-55 myself. Unfortunately, I have to get someone to do all the work, as I don't know how or have the equipment to do so. It is just collecting dust now.
    I'm in the same situation too. I do all the draw filing, polishing, and as much work as possible on my gun builds. But when it comes to fitting and chambering a barrel I have to get someone to do it. It's usually around $150-$175 for this work, and the cost of the barrel. But I've found that building up the average Rolling Block into a nice sporting rifle is less than the cost of buying one ready to go.
    But the cost depends on how much you do yourself. If you fit and finish the wood you'll save huge amounts of money. If you draw file, and hand polish the barrel and receiver it saves a fair amount on final finishing of rust blue and case color.
    The last one I did cost me $1250, including buying the action, and paying for the above mentioned work, plus sights. Most guns I looked at in that price range had lessor grade wood, and not as nicely finished or fit.

  20. #20
    Boolit Mold Milsurpsandmore's Avatar
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    38-55! Can't say enough about my RB in that chambering! Can't say enough, seriously!

    For reloads I use either Winchester or Starline brass, and they last forever. And I get my bullets from the Meister Bullet Co., and am very happy with both their quality and price.

    Here is the load that my gun likes: 22gr IMR 4198; 245gr RN/FP, .377 diameter; 2.510 OAL. Very accurate and easy on the shoulder. This is the gun and the load that I am taking out in the woods deer hunting this year, definitely.

    Have fun. Let us know what you choose, and how you like it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check