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Thread: Hi to all and I have a question

  1. #1
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    Hi to all and I have a question

    Hi everyone! I normally hangout out at the Marlin Owners Forum but need some advice on a issue I have and I think you folks may be the place to ask. I have a 1894 Winchester made in 1906 in 38-55. I've slugged the barrel and it came out as .377. After loading trying a variety of different bullet types I've found it will load only those bullets with a smaller Meplat such as from Lyman molds 375248 and 375449. Long or short Starline brass makes no difference. I have these molds so it's no problem casting for them. My question is has anyone experienced this and are there other molds either from Lyman or others that are comparable to these. Thanks!

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    I can't answer your question, but I suspect someone will be along shortly that can. Meanwhile, welcome aboard!

  3. #3
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    I'm no help either, but Welcome to the forum.
    Keep your powder dry,

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master enfield's Avatar
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    not sure why the meplat would matter as far as chambering goes, I have a 1911 made 1894 38-55 and a marlin 1893 38-55. the Winchester chamber is more picky about what will chamber. I don't resize the brass and after seating the boollits I give the rounds a pinch in the sizing die ( with the decapper removed ) just to squish things enough to chamber nicely. also, are you sure it's only .377" , that seems small for an old 38-55.

    hey, watch where ya point that thing!

  5. #5
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    the 375449 has a plain base counterpart 375248 but the 167 or 165 would both work too, they have longer noses and are bore rider types but it's all in the diameter [s].

    you have a tight barrel, more like a 375 Winchester barrel than a 38-55 barrel.
    I'd stick to the normal length Winchester brass and look for a nose diameter more suited to your bore.

    I'd also re-slug or drop a pin gauge down the barrel and do a throat pound mock-up and see just what diameter you are really dealing with.
    once you figure that out your money might just be best spent talking to Tom over at accurate molds and have him cut you something suited to your particular rifle.

  6. #6
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    Triggerfinger
    Welcome to the forum.
    I'm at Marlin Owners a lot myself.
    This is a great forum & I suspect you'll like it here.
    Please keep us informed as to how you are coming with that 94 Winchester.
    U.S.A. " RIDE FOR THE BRAND OR LEAVE!"

  7. #7
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    Does the bullet hang up on the top or bottom of the chamber? Leverguns can be fussy about what they will feed. You might be able to change the timing to allow the bullet you want to use to feed.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Welcome to the list. I suggest that Tom at http://www.accuratemolds.com/ will make whatever you need, and do it very well at a reasonable cost.

  9. #9
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    Triggerfinger
    Where did you go? Did you get your problem/question solved?
    U.S.A. " RIDE FOR THE BRAND OR LEAVE!"

  10. #10
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    I wish my 38-55 had a .377" groove diameter. Bought my Winchester 94 AE right before Winchester closed the doors the last time, and mine mikes out to .379". Loading a .380" cast boolit, I have to use Starline brass so the round will chamber. Winchester brass is too thick and wont chamber with a .380" boolit.

    Read an article by Dave Scovill who said all the new Winchester 94 AE's had .377" barrels, maybe so, but mine doesn't.
    Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have a 1901 vintage 94 in 38-55 and it slugs a bit larger than yours. That works out just fine because my much later vintage Legendary Frontiersman 94 is also a bit larger in the bore. I'll join runfiverun in recommending another try at slugging the bore but I'll also pass on my observation that the throats on many older Winchesters are tighter than modern rifles in the same chambering. Lyman came out with a 380681 mould a few years back and it seems to be just the ticket for the 38-55's that are indeed 38's and not 375's.
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    Hi Gentlemen,
    Thanks for all the excellent posts for this thread. The rifle slugs out to .377 (apparently this is fairly common as stated in Lymans 49th edition regarding 38-55's). I cast and shot some rounds from the moulds and they were fine. When I load other bullets they tend to get stock at an angle with the tip of the round in the bore and the bottom of the cartridge on the lifter. Well for now I have rounds that work in this rifle and I'm good with that. Still wondering if anyone ever has had the same issue.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triggerfinger View Post
    Hi Gentlemen,
    Thanks for all the excellent posts for this thread. The rifle slugs out to .377 (apparently this is fairly common as stated in Lymans 49th edition regarding 38-55's). I cast and shot some rounds from the moulds and they were fine. When I load other bullets they tend to get stock at an angle with the tip of the round in the bore and the bottom of the cartridge on the lifter. Well for now I have rounds that work in this rifle and I'm good with that. Still wondering if anyone ever has had the same issue.

    What kind of accuracy are you getting with your .38-55? It's an interesting cartridge.
    U.S.A. " RIDE FOR THE BRAND OR LEAVE!"

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank V View Post
    What kind of accuracy are you getting with your .38-55? It's an interesting cartridge.
    Found this old post and thought I should respond. Accuracy is great with this setup. Have the original Lyman tang sight on it and can keep a 2.5 group at 100 yards. That's good for my shooting.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check